b3y0ndd34th

shameless bump, would like to sell, even though this thread is a laughing stock here.

I blew up my L20B, it's quite the task to swap and it's even harder to find motors here. I'm located in Indiana so I need something close by or someone willing to ship. I don't want anything all souped up, I don't have that cash, something stock from where someone else has swapped would be fine. MUST RUN, I have a motor that doesn't run already, don't need another one, just trying to avoid a rebuild as I live in an apartment complex and have NO garage access or engine stand, only access to a "cherry picker". Please let me know if you have anything laying around, or if you are near the area and want to help rebuild an L20B. 812 seven 6 seven - 1 five 2 six Texts and phone calls welcome, prefer texts. Let me know how much you want, I will attempt to come up with the cash.

hmm That must be how it's being edited, I had no idea someone could edit form that link, someone keeps messing with my ad, thank I'll fix my link. I was starting to get pissed, thought someone hacked my email again, I'm glad it was my mistake, I fixed the link, thanks for the heads up! skib please edit your posting and take my number out I don't want on call lists, thanks.

Price 1250 obo The time has come, I have tried and tried and failed. I either need a motor or the car has to go :( I had the timing almost fixed had it running good, shut it off, went to start it today and the motor is locked up. I tried to move it by hand with socket and wrench had no luck. Pulled plugs, pulled starter, tried with all my might to move it and the bolt only snugged up. I've been looking for a motor to put in this thing for a while and it seems really difficult to do in my area with out a substantial amount of cash. So I have posted it for sale on craigslist, I'd really like someone here to get it so it doesn't get scrapped or anything. It's got a clean title just needs a motor and some love. http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/3783154117.html Thanks for looking guys Here's a copy of what the ad is SUPPOSE to say since someone won't leave the ad alone. I have a 1975 Datsun 610 Wagon I purchased this car as a project car. I got it running and drove it around a bit. I got about a year of use out of it till the motor blew up. I've been working on getting it running again for the past 6 months. I was finally successful in getting it to run but it was short lived. The motor has locked up, I'm not really sure why, but I'm ready to let the project go. I was hoping to swap in a small carburated motor but I've not had any luck finding one that will fit. I have more than what I am asking for in it. the body is in good shape, tires are alright, transmission is a 5 speed and it works really good. Brand new exhaust on it all the way back. Swapped the seats for some out of a 2000 honda prelude. Back seat needs some work, carpet needs replaced. Comes with wire wheels from another datsun I never got around to cleaning them up and putting them on but I have no use for them so they go with the car. Please serious inquiries only. I will budge on price just make an offer, all electronics work! visit http://s819.photobucket.com/user/B3y0ndD34th/library/Datsun?sort=3&page=1 for pictures, it is my album I have been keeping since I got the car. text or call (812) seven 6 seven- 1 five 2 six SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY, CLEAN INDIANA TITLE

Have not ran compression check, do no have anyone with a tester, or the ability to borrow one from autozone till pay day. But I did adjust the valve lash, there were two or three total that needed a little adjusting, they weren't too far off, but I set them at 0.008 (instake) and 0.010 (exhauast). I then adjusted the timing again, to make sure everything was lined up. Adjusted points in distributor again just to double check. Car did start, I ran it for a while (20 min or so) keeping an eye on fluids, and adjusted teh valve lash again, nothing too major out of whack the book just said to check it at operating temp and I was unable to get the motor to start before then. Now I have got her to run... YES... but she's still not right. When I pull out of my drive way it immediately starts back firing and chokin all over the place, it has no power at all, and back fires every 5 min. Now I KNOW it has to be timing, and i am thinking it is at the distributor... for some reason I am having a HELL of a time adjusting it... any tips would be welcome. I think it is a match box dizzy it points the same way the matchbox does in haiz video, but does not have that black box, i've watched hainz video, but the ability to correctly time this thing still eludes me :( It fires up when cold, when it gets warm it starts wanting to die, I have to hold it to get the RPMS at about 2K and above and hold it to idled so I can go anywhere :( Also found a full motor, trans, wiring, and ecu from a 77 280z, is this a pain in the ass to get to fit, or would it be a good fit, would it eat my radiator? I haven't gone to look at it yet, just had some replies to some craisglist help.

I used ohm meter instead of test light, as I don't have one lying around, but yes as points open the continuity goes out. I have a Ballast resistor on my strut tower, directly above my points coil. The ballast is functioning properly, and hot wire is functioning properly. I have used my old point set, and put my old coil in for testing purposes and have decided to leave the old coil in and keep the new one for emergencies. Even with old pint set (yes gapped) my car fires on all 4 cylinders but does not start. I can't get it to "chug" like it wants to start anymore, am I a couple teeth out?

Thanks mike. This makes it easier for ppl to keep up. I have used hainz video to adjust my valve lash, I forgot to update. I did the valve lash on the 9th. I'll see if I can find my old point set and swap it in, see if it makes any difference.

Lol, there is gas in the tank, I have also tried giving the carb a little drink to help it along after removing the fuel pump. Still no start, I will check for fire at the other 3 cylinders, I've never had trouble just checking the 1st one though. My TDC looks just like yours. I have adjusted the lash for the valves is this what you mean by "adjustment"?

I am still having issues getting my car to start and run. I almost had it started it was sputtering and cranking with my current timing set up. I adjust the dizzy a bit and have not been able to find the sweet spot again. I drove my car to pick up my rims and on the way back my radiator blew up causing my car to over heat. After pulling the head, it was very badly warped. I had the head machined and milled, they had to remove 0.003 off my head in order to make it straight again. I took the head home and put it on. I then had troubles with getting the car timed correctly. With the help of this wonderful community I got it started and running, but it had a really nasty tick/peck. Not a knock, I drove the car home with a bad head gasket before I pulled it and had it machined. It did not make any noises, only smoked heavily and smelled of anti-freeze. So I purchased a head saver from my Car-Quest here in town. I tore the motor back down, installed the shim, gasket, and torqued the head back on, etc. I have been having a hell of a time getting the car to start since then. I have taken the timing cover off, and adjusted the the timing a few times now and everything is correct (timing mark on the pulley, timing mark on the gear, and timing on the dizzy). I have the timing set (as per the sticker on the car) at 12 degrees Before T.D.C. I have a matchbox dizzy, it came installed on the motor before I got the car, and yes I am aware it is 180 out from normal dizzy, and it is set appropriately. I have the Firing order correct (1-3-4-2). I have a fairly new point set and I've tried all variations of gap the point set allows, but I did not replace the condenser. Plugs are fresh, and gaped, Plug wires are new, Coil is new. I replaced wires and plugs before over heating, but I re-gaped the plugs anyway, Coil was replaced when I was trying to get fire from it. I have checked the voltage at the coil; negative side is 12 volt, positive is 5.92 when the car is turned into the on position, the coil fires at the cap, plugs fire, car turns over, but will not start. Wire to Dizzy is 12 volt from negative side of coil. I have tried Advancing, and Retarding the timing at the distributor but it does not seem to help, I have not loosened the second bolt on the adjustment plate yet, I'm waiting to see what other ideas you guys have in store for me. Carb was freshly rebuilt (maybe 2 months before radiator trouble) but was working before the radiator blew up and caused the car to overheat. I really need some help, my car has been down 3 weeks going on 4 now, and it's my daily driver, I want to get her back on the road :(

still working, got the shim in yesterday and buttoned up, need to adjust timing.. hopefully no more "ticking", too hot to do it today, and i seem to be more successful when I have help anyway.

I figured it would backfire and shit being 180 out, I watched your video that's how I knew the cam wasn't in TDC when I went to put the head back on the first time. Someone had replaced my dizzy before and used that matchbox style, I guess that's what it's called. There is in fact a ballast resistor, it's on my strut tower. After I had someone else here to help me test, rather than holding the screwdriver and reaching in the window to turn the ignition, we found that it was getting spark on the coil wire and the plug wires. There sounds like an exhaust leak, but I'm worried about the tick/peck, I will check to see what the lash is for the rockers and adjust as per your instructions. The guide I have says to set intake at 0.008 and exhaust to 0.010 I can't embed photbucket video but here is a link of the sound http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/zz113/B3y0ndD34th/Datsun/?action=view&current=VIDEO0012.mp4

yes it ran great after the cap replacement, I replaced the cap maybe a month ago. I had my dad come over and help me adjust everything, this is the 5th time adjusting the timing... AND IT WORKED it was a timing issue. I had everything TDC but I guess it was 180 out, my dad noticed that right off the bat. Now there's a soft tick/peck goes with the speed of the engine. This developed after I put it back together. Should I get a shim? We took the valve cover off and started the car momentarily, the noise continued, was not louder or softer. Need suggestions now. I did not replace the valves or anything to do with them. Looks like I'm getting places now :)

Headlights, tailights, ignition, all of it runs through the FL. if something is breaking down here it's a good chance it could cause other problems too. When I got my 610 it didn't have a voltage regulator, a previous owner had removed it. When I finally figured out there wasn't one there I noticed some issuses with my FL being burned up to the main connection of the battery, I replaced those and the alternator and It's been great since. I have other problems now, but this solved my issues with Turn signals, dash lights, headlights, and tail lights.