jozefaz

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Oh and for the 2 other points brought up 1. the radiator was a eBay special. the dimensions and spout locations and sizes were correct but the mount was complexly wrong so we had to desolder the stock radiator brackets and use piece of angle iron to adapt them. Not pretty but once its installed you cant tell. 2. the Accell Chevy HEI module was a 1$ buy due to the package was damaged in the parts store due to a leaky roof. (Not that i had put a pile of performance parts in a certain spot in the store when i saw the clouds coming or anything... :angel: ) IF/when it ever dies ill be putting in a Delco. The stock modules are always better with borg warner being a close second. i chose the HEI because every single parts store int he world should have one on the shelf so i should never be stranded. i doubt it will ever burn out though because the box IS the heat-sink. we machined the inside pad smooth and used heat-sink compound in between the module and box. barely gets warm to the touch in our 130F summers.

Yes it does defeat the design being rotated this way. For the CFM needed i only had 3 real choices, a vac sec 390, a NASCAR mech sec 390 ($$$$) and the 600 mech sec. I have done the 390 vac sec on a Toyota 2tc 1600 before and while it had acceptable low rpm characteristics, overall tuning they(tried multiple) seemed to be filled with "gremlins" for lack of a better word. Everything else was all over the board and even with weeks of tuning the carb and checking over the rest of the engine mechanically, never ended up satisfied with the end result. they really are suited for a 4.3 V6 more than a sub 2500-CC engine, and i think thats due to whats actually cast into the internal passageways of the carb body and metering block themselves. NASCAR 390 are in the 600-900$ range and for that cash i would be 3/4 way to Megasquirt fuel injection. i already had the 600DP from clearance at my work so that's what went on. If i converted to side hung bowls instead of center hung, i might be able to put the original top plate back on and utilize the dual port design of the manifold, but to get the usage at higher rpm id have to run the secondaries and then im back to weeks of tuning, and dicking with throttle linkage. and right now the car runs way beter than everyone thinks its should. Idle has a very slight lope at very low rpm's.14:1 +/-0.5 AFR on my wideband (yes i use a wideband for tuning) Roll on throttle, even from a stop is slightly aggressive but smooth, no lurching or surging or excessive clutch slipping.12-13:1 Cruise is smooth and shows about 15:1 Romping the throttle to the floor from idle and staying in it she just screams.12:1 AFR Regular shifts no bog , and especially no lift shift WOT feels awesome, but i try to keep that to a minimum, the trans is cherry. If i had to pick a problem with the car and carb combo, it would be simply the fact it cant respond to lugging the motor in the wrong gear like a normal or undersized(stock) carb can. IF your in 3rd gear at 20 MPH and roll more than halfway into the throttle, it simply just doesn't have the airflow to keep the venturie's going at such a low RPM and the engine goes dead.(50:1 AFR on the wideband) it seriously feels like somebody reached up and flipped the key off. HOWEVER if you just take your foot back out of it, the engine instantly returns to life as if nothing happened. Moral of the story? Don't lug the engine in the wrong gear!!! Ill try to take a video the next day i get a chance when i can recruit a cameraman

I have work in 10 minutes but ill reply to a few points made off the top of my head. I am ASE certified in : Parts (P2) Engine repair Engine performance Electrical Brakes Yes the dual port design works, proven in the modern varitable runner designs of today such as the toyota 4age and the honda Bseries Type-R engines. Unfortunatly , even with the manifold spacers i had to make to get the intake to clear the exhaust, the secondary fuel bowl would not clear the valve cover. I had to design a new top plate for the intake to rotate the carb 90 degrees. The upshot being i now had a direct rod throttle linkage instead the the bell and crank system that always seemed sloppy. Ill address the rest when i have more time...

The following are new within the last 5-15k miles/5 years ( car is a backup and hardly driven): Engine misc: Alternator Voltage regulator Starter Belts Fuel pump Brakes: Drums Shoes Wheel cylinders Calipers Rotors Pads Master cylinder Booster Cooling system: Radiator(heavy duty oversized aluminum) Electric fan conversion Water pump Radiator And heater hoses Thermostat and thermostatic switches Transmission: Output shaft seal Synthetic fluid Clutch kit Shifter bushing Shifter boot and T-handle Master and slave cylinder Ignition: Cap Rotors Heavy duty wireset NGK plugs HEI electronic ignition module conversion Electronic distributor conversion (no points) Exhaust: Crankcase evacuation system installed(remove PCV) SSS Tri-y american cast iron header with air injection ports sealed Flowtech Raptor 2" muffler Tapped for oxygen sensor in header Intake: Headlight 4" funnel intake conversion Inline high flow air filter Specter 4" carb hat Holley 0-4776 carburetor 600cfm DP (currently secondary's are disabled and wired shut for an effective CFM of 300) Offenhauser 4barrel aluminum intake manifold

Any questions?

yea you COULD use matchbox. i personally run an hei which is more than enough for stock useage if you want to fool around with building an enclosure to keep it cool and the elements out..... or a streetfire box (whis is just a 6al2 with features removed) that has a rev limiter built in. also no custom fabing or wiring (dist + and -, batt + and -, and key switched). also the streetfire uses a dial for rev limit so no chips to swap. not to mention warrenty. if your time isnt worth anythign then yea spend days scouring the junkyard for all this used stuff and custom fabbing for sub-par performance and less features... *bangs head against wall*

So does this mean people are interested or no? BTW my buddy dropped off the primary SU that has the vac-advance port so i have both now...

You COULD mess around with all this, or just buy: Cardone Remanufactured - Distributor (L20b) Part # 31-620 AND MSD Ignition Street Fire - Ignition System Part # 5520 AND MSD Ignition Blaster - Ignition Coil Part # 8207 Line: MSD and have it be ALL brand new... Just my .02$

other vac advance su is at my friends being used for mockup, not shown here, but will come with setup.

the stuff is in a box buried in my shed. i had bought the setup sight unseen for 300 through a friend claiming they were off a l16 so i was stuck with them. disassembled the carbs to clean and oil them so they wouldn't corrode. if somebody shows an interest i will take some pictures and post them up after digging them out. even have the firewalll engine plate from the donor car. sale would be through ebay with a buyit now of $250 or ebay auction starting at $200 if multiple people want it. ( ive been burned on forums too many times) Let me know! Also if your in phoenix let me know and you can just look at them.

how much for the dogleg?

i dont have any pictures straight on showing the divider, but yes, the runners are different sizes. the plenum on the engine side are smaller runners to keep velocity up ont he primary barrels and the master cylinder side plenum is larger runners. i had to create and waterjet out that new aluminum plate to rotate the carb 90 degrees to kept the linkage inline and fuel bowels not hit the valve cover. so the dual plenum doesnt really work for me but it runs and idles great regardless... as far as black plugs not sure. havnt hooked the wideband back up to check the jetting but setting the idle mix and speed by vacuum has given great results.