Zomgturbozombiejesus

Is there a how-to for this? I did some searching and didn't see anything.

Hmm not sure I understand... I have a 280zx five speed that I'm looking to bolt onto a ka in the near future for a swap. Thought I could just swap out the housing and be good to go. Thanks

Title says it all, DC metro area would be nice but east coast is good.

Trying to cut back on the rats nest of hoses in my bay - wanted to see if anyone had an electric choke lying around that would fit. Thanks

There is only one throttle cable as far as I know, and this is posted in the 620 truck area so I have a 620. I had to use the adaptor which adds about two inches of height which seems to be about how short the cable is. Guess ill have to look around for a longer cable and likely a bracket so it isn't pulling at an angle.

Throttle cable is too short ... the pedal is halfway depressed minimum. Is it common to need a longer throttle cable for a weber?

Cool, does the flow direction matter? That's located off the distributor correct?

Got the new carb in, but had a few questions on some of these vacuum lines. I've looked in several other carb posts as well as some others around the internet and I haven't really been able to find anything consistent. 1. I've seen this simply left, or with a little filter on it. 2. I understand this is the water choke so obviously it needs to be hooked up to some coolant lines but not sure which ones. 3. I've seen this plugged or hooked up to the vacuum line coming from the distributor. I guess I'll be removing that hard fuel line since my fuel inlet is on the right side now (although I've seen pictures where other peoples are still on the left side of the carb fuel filter). Not sure where these should go, they were connected to the old air intake filter housing. Lastly, the throttle cable is at a fairly extreme angle. I'm assuming this is common since the point where the cable is attached to the throttle assembly on the carb was a bit torqued in this exact fashion. Is there maybe a longer bracket that I can install so it actually lines up a bit better?

Ok, cool - seems like the valve might be sticking a bit - but I can't really remember how it was before I started messing with it. I'll try installing tomorrow so I guess we'll see. I'm sure i'll be back with some other issue.

So I'm finishing up rebuilding this carb and I'm not sure the action is as smooth or where it should be since I don't really have anything to compare it to since I removed the spring loaded choke assembly. I marked the alignment before removing it, but I'm not sure its at the right tension. Seems now the majority of the action doesn't move the butterfly at all, and the portion that does takes a fair amount of effort. I took a video to try and show how its working currently. Sorry video is rotated, phone wouldn't let me rotate before uploading. It shouldn't really matter, you can still see what you need to see I hope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp-KJ0tCHAM&feature=youtube_gdata_player Thanks

Long time since I've updated the thread, but I got the truck back into the garage and got it running again. Also we removed the after market radio and the six disc changer that was drawing on the battery when the car was off. I also removed the rack on the back so it's looking a lot better. Moving forward I'm going to rebuild the weber carb I picked up and get that installed, and I need to change the oil and bleed the brakes. I'll post pics once I do something worth posting.

So I did the test Mike suggested, I didn't start behind the filter I just bypassed it. I think the filter is bad, or the lines behind it because its got absolutely no fuel in it. The pump did its job and pulled the fuel from my makeshift tank out where the carburetor inlet would be. So the pump is working, but it appeared to be leaking gas - at the very least it was pretty soaked with gas after I ran the test. Even after I confirmed the pump was working I placed the carb inlet line back into the carb and put the intake and air filter back on. Truck sounded like it was turning over once or twice, but then it just dies. On a separate note, thanks to jefe de jefes matchbox came in the mail, still need to order a cap/rotor and a new coil. Also someone asked for a different angle pic of the trans I got last week.

Cool, I'll get to that once I get it started. Since the pump didn't seem to be pushing any fuel I added some into the carb via the fuel inlet and tried starting it up. It turned over once then died. Trying to decide if I should stick with getting it running before installing the new carb and distributor.

Well look what we have here: (Ignore muddy dog footprints on floor) Thanks to schicksal for the quick responses and shipment. I have a rebuild kit on its way, so I'll jump into that once it arrives. I had a little bit of daylight to burn when I got home from work so I decided to try and see why the truck isn't starting. I pulled the stock air filter and disconnected the line that comes from the fuel pump to the carburetor and put the business end into a beer bottle (which was mysteriously empty). I jumped in the cab and cranked it ten or twelve times; checking the bottle afterward there is zero fuel making it from the pump to that line. I know the truck has an issue with the filler neck leaking when the tank is full, but I was told that was only when it was completely full (there is a tiny hairline crack where the neck meets the tank where it leaks). At any rate I went under the assumption that the gas gauge was incorrect and possibly the fuel had all leaked out of the tank. So I added about 2 gallons of gas to the tank and retried but I'm still not getting any fuel out of that line. The fuel filter is also empty. I assume since its cheap the easiest way is to change out the filter, which I will do this weekend, but is there a way I can tell if the fuel pump isn't doing its job?

Should have some time to work on the truck this weekend. I have a weber carb on its way as well as a matchbox dizzy. The distributor needs a new rotor and cap as well, and I'd like to upgrade the coil while I'm at it. Also the seller said the carb has been sitting for a bit and recommended it be rebuilt, are there any preferred rebuild kits for the 32/36 dgav? Also am I going to run into any issues since there is a manual choke currently installed, obviously I just disconnect the line that goes out the switch in the cabin, but why would the previous owner have done that in the first place? Inability to tune the stock carbs reliably?