Peabody

True, I am enjoying being more engaged in the driving experience though.

Thanks Mike, I wondered if it was as simple as stepping on the gas before starting. I don't have the habit of doing that yet. I get the feeling nothing was changed except the bare minimum. In this case adding the carb and regulator that came with the kit.

When you're right, you're right. Before and after I freshened up the fenders and replaced some old hardware. Been driving it periodically and had some questions about the choke/idle. Brief timeline: - When I first got it, it would high idle when cold ~2-3K RPM. Pressing on the gas would bring the RPM down and stabilize around 1500. From what I could tell the choke would be closed when cold and then be fully open once warm. - I have notes from only a couple days later idling at 1K to 1500 when cold and then settling at 800 once warm. - Period of time driving it off and on, sometimes only a couple times a week or less when I was away. Probably 2 months go by. - Now notice battery light would be on, turns over a bit longer than usual before starting and doesn't high idle. Sits at about 800 rpm when cold or warm. I drive it like that for a bit thinking I'll be replacing the battery soon. - Decide to check the carb again to see what it's doing. > Cold, choke is open and throttle lever is not touching idle screw > Pull throttle cable, choke closes. Started and idles at 3K RPM > Gas pedal pushed, drops down to 1.5K RPM, choke ~half open > Pull throttle cable, choke opens fully. Idle at 1K RPM > Let sit to cool, choke closed a little bit but is more than half way open > Pull throttle cable and it closes fully Is this functioning properly or is the choke hanging up somewhere? Seems like it should come all the way back to close once it's cool without pulling the throttle. Also, just received a box of parts from the PO. He gave me the K-644-38 Weber carb kit box, which doesn't appear to be an option on redlineweber.com. I see the kit on some other sites which appear to have the same components I have. Some of them describe a more involved process (low pressure fuel pump, regulator, new fuel pickup) but the PO just dropped in the new carb and regulator and called it a day from what it seems like.

lol, we'll see how I like them once I get them freshened up.

What's the consensus on fender flares, keep 'em or nah? Did they come stock on the 4x4? I like the OEM ones better than any of the after market ones I've seen, but not sure if I'll end up putting them back on. Needs new hardware anyway, they're very rusted. Also featuring new grille and freshly painted bumper🥰

I think you're right about that, PO actually did install a regulator and had issues before he set the pressure right. Set to 3psi now and working fine as far as I can tell. If I were to replace the fuel pump down the line, would it make sense to get another high pressure to match the truck came with or switch to low pressure and skip the regulator? Thanks for the generous offer, I'll keep that in mind 😛

Back after a little time away. Dug around for paperwork but couldn't find anything referencing the engine number, just the Gas Mileage Info mentioning the throttle body injection. Here's what's on the engine block, though I wasn't sure if the "i" would show up or just Z24 like I have here. Also found some other paperwork with the manual that looks to be from the original purchase. Pretty cool! Nissan accessory advertisements Got the throttle body that was pulled off by the original owner. I also looked at the fuel pump, and it does appear to be the high pressure variety with hoses coming in/out of the top/bottom. PS - If anyone has the part number for this "Grade A Strawberry Jam" that would be greatly appreciated... found wedged in the frame and I think it's structurally integral 😅

Door jamb sticker says 7/85, will have to get back to you on the engine number.

Thomas, looks like my carb orientation is opposite yours. The choke is on the side facing the middle of the truck.

I will have to confirm for sure the operation of the carb again, but I did look at it when i first got it and it seemed to be fully closed when cold and then fully open once it was warmed up. I seem to remember it also slowly closing as it cooled down. Is there another identifier I can look for to see if an engine was swapped? Would a weber carb need a fuel pressure regulator added if it was a Z24? Mine has one. Also, my carb does appear to be in an opposite orientation to others I've seen online. Hmmm

Wow, looks great with the new carpet and paint. Giving me good ideas, and pics to reference to boot! Noticed the center console/cup holders as well. @Thomas Perkins, does it live in that spot and did you secure it to the bed at all?

This morning the truck seems to be running pretty rich and spitting out black gunk from the exhaust. I had the key in and out of the ignition in acc/on position without starting it last night as I was figuring out the lights and heard a sound that would come on for a few seconds each time. Is that the fuel pump? Makes me think about the PO Weber install and if that was done correctly. Not the first time it's done this, you can see the smaller splatter marks on the right. Wondering if it could also just be crud in the exhaust from not driving it for years.

Thanks! The dome light switch seemed clean enough. Messed with the Passenger door switch and could hear the switch as it was grounding. Cleaned that up and it's working. I expected the driver side to be the same, but remembered that's on a timer. Little bit of cleaning and it all appears to be working again! 👌

Looks like we got the same truck. I'd like to get into the interior on mine to replace carpet and do a deep clean. Curious if you've run into many fasteners/clips breaking in the process? Figured stuff would be brittle and I see a lot of the screws are rusty so I anticipate replacing them as I go.

Thanks! Picked 'er up for about 3K