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Zippy67roadster

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  • Location
    Cameron Texas
  • Cars
    67 Roadster, 67 411 Wagon, 64 320 truck
  • Interests
    Cars, hunting and fishing

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  1. I have whats left of it. It was snapped pretty good. I figure one of the times it was moved since 1981 it was caught on something and was broken. I am not sure if it is all there but will take a look and measure it.
  2. Does anyone know if the parking brake cable for a 520/521 works on the 320?
  3. Ah! The parking brake cable was broken when I got the truck. I will replace it and adjust them again then set the parking break and see how that works. Thanks!!!
  4. You mean adjust the adjuster manually until the shoes drag a bit without applying the brake pedal? If so I have done that.
  5. When you say way out of adjustment what do you mean? When I put the new adjusters on was I to manually adjust them until the shoes dragged a little bit without applying the brake pedal? I did that and still have no brakes!
  6. It stays up with good pedal. When I bled it all I got was fluid no air and I took the front drums off and verified the brake cylinders were working, they just weren't holding the drum from rotating. The only thing I can think of is that the drums are so worn that the shoes won't apply enough pressure on them?
  7. So I have her running and driving but the stopping part, not so much. I replaced all of the brake cylinders front and rear along with the adjusters and even had stainless brake hoses made. I put new shoes and a new master cylinder on it as well. The only thing not replaced were the drums themselves. I took a test drive after I got the clutch slave cylinder on and bled to see if she would shift gears. The good news is she shifts into all gears. The bad news was when I hit the brakes she wouldn't stop. I bled the system 2 more times around and then today I was trying to test the brakes and when I hit the pedal the rear passenger side brake cylinder popped the cylinder out! I have never seen this happen on drum brakes. The retaining pin and all the hardware is installed correctly so I am not sure what happened. Any insight to why the brakes aren't working or why the brake cylinder would push the piston out would be appreciated.
  8. The brake cylinders fro the 521 truck are identical for the front and rear. I picked mine up on Rockauto.
  9. I appreciate the warning. I only converted the front on my 67 411 wagon so I wouldn't be opposed to just the front converted on the truck.
  10. The only things I am missing are the front turn signals and a bench seat. I plan on doing a full frame off restoration of it once my new shop is up. I have done numerous frame off restorations on Datsun SPL311 Roadsters and they take me about 10 months to finish. Once the shop is up I figure this little truck should take about the same. As for a couple grand to make it safe and reliable I figure it will take $4K to $5K as I plan on converting the drum brakes to disc front and back.
  11. So upon further inspection the motor is not an A14 but a J13 with a Weber 32/36 carb. The fuel pump isn't working so I sprayed some starting fluid in the carb and it fired up and ran for a couple seconds. That is promising so I ordered a new fuel pump and a rebuild kit for the carb. I will be gone the next 10 days but when I get back I should have the motor running!!
  12. So I picked this little NL3420 up a couple weeks ago and have started replacing things like the ignition system parts, coolant system parts and hydraulic parts. I will start on the brakes in a week or so. I am looking to have it running in the next couple days. It cranks over but I am still trying to get the correct size belt on it. I will try to fire it off a jar of fuel. I am not sure of the fuel pump is working but if it doesn't I will replace it with an electric one and move forward. I have already purchased the brake parts needed short of new drums. I found an replacement passengers outside door handle and bought some aftermarket headlight surrounds. The fuel tank had a rats nest in it so I cleaned it out and flushed it with acetone. i have a cleaning/sealing kit on the way to finish it off right. Once running and stopping I will focus on getting the title and then drive it until my new shop is up and ready. Once the shop is complete I will do a frame off restoration and spray it white over red. You can follow the restoration on my site here https://sincitydatsuns.com/restorations.html
  13. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    This is a Datsun Roadster 1600 race car project. It is a 67.5 body but it was heavily modified in the early 90's to run SCCA. It started racing in 1972 as an HP car and I have the original logbook with pictures of it how it began it's racing life. It comes with an extra fiberglass hood but no drive train is in the car. If you are looking for a great project that will be welcomed at any vintage racing event this car is for you. It will come with a bill of sale only and is not meant to return to the street as it was/is a purpose built race car. $2500 OBO and you will have to arrange transportation.

    $2,500

    Las Vegas, Nevada - US

  14. I have a set of 15 inch Rota RB's I used to run on my 67 Datsun 1600 Roadster I would be willing to trade.
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