ToastyBass

I see the last time anyone posted about A/C for this car was in 2017, I think now's a great time for me to poke some brains. Here's what I'm working with: - My '75 - Uncertain bracket from an '81 donor car's trunk - Previously A/C equipped '74 in a junk yard First thing I need to know: I have the cabin portion of the unit, I have plans to get the condenser today and possibly the York compressor and bracket (since it's guaranteed to fit, it's on the junkyard block right now) About that cabin unit; there are 2 or 3 wires coming from the controls that go to the engine bay, one is black and the other one or two are light blue and a heavier gauge. In the interest of time, I just snipped them from within the cabin (this is AZ summer we're talking about). I have doubt about the count because one of the two thick blue wires is folded back around the other and wrapped in electrical tape.. I'd like some help figuring out what they may go to. I have a rough idea and could figure it out but haven't even had time to clean teh sand and dust off these parts yet. I had an '81 parts car for about a year and got the engine and trans from it. As stated, there is a pracket that somewhat resembles a comresspr bracket but the tensioner is nothing like what Datsun1200 shows, it doesn't even have a pulley on it. I have my doubts there. Also from the parts car is a bracket and vacuum motor on the carb for a throttle opener, which will do nicely to increase engine RPM with compressor load. I plan on using a normally closed vacuum valve and just wire it inline with the A/C clutch circuit. I have yet to study adjustment so it doesn't climb to redline. Lastly, I'm wondering if it could be cost effective to try and rebuild the York compressor (guaranteed fit) instead of getting a new compressor designed for the 280Z from ZCG (despite pulley options, uncertain of alignment) As for the condenser setup, my car came with the RPM-limiting clutch and 7-blade fan. I've recently replaced the fan clutch as well to be safe. My temps did stay a tiny bit lower on a test drive yesterday, but not by a whole bunch. It was sitting perfectly at half before, now it's just a tad below., Good to know it can still run close to temp with that clutch out lol

Fun fact, my car came with an FSM as part of the sale lol Ofc my misfire is still present; I know the rings are shot but all other components are operating perfectly. Since this post I haven't had any ignition issues aside from the known oil bit and even swapped in a 5-speed 60A! Plan is to finish rebuilding the OG engine (with a staggeringly low amount of wear on pistons/bearing surfaces/cylinders for ~80k miles) with fresh rings and ARP head studs, get the heater core back into the coolant loop (it's been blocked off, NOT BYPASSED when I got the car) and add A/C (I have interior pieces, plan on getting engine bracket, York compressor, and condenser today, know where I can get a rebuild kit?)

Noted, thanks Dguy! I've been up and down the same article on Datsun1200 about exhaust, my main goal was to see if I could remove the carb stove system in favor of a twin DCOE setup.. Adding a 4-2 manifold would've been an added bonus. It might work as a nice place to mount an anti-vibration support later on. (The Weber Bible brings up mounting to the block, I believe)

My main goal is to get a replacement manifold that won't have a carb stove (in favor of the twin Weber setup I'd like to run some day) and preferably some manner of equal lengths for better flow. Yeah, I could just do some sort of block-off deal with it, but I'd prefer to clean up that side of the engine bay as much as possible and potentially improve exhaust gas extraction from my lil A14 with a nice header (or equivalent) setup. Long story short, does anyone have a 4-pot L series manifold gasket I could compare to my A series one? (I may just get a gasket off rockauto to compare them myself but I'd wager someone else has done this before)

Hi! I know all A series manifolds are interchangeable, (except for something chassis-specific like the Tomei B310 setup [4-1 fat collector really close to the bulkhead]), but I was perusing around online and noticed the LD20 4-pot exhaust manifold. It looks strikingly similar to an A series GX-style manifold (4-2 setup w/ 2-1 in the downpipe) This is mostly a random crapshoot because it seems really hard to find an affordable aftermarket solution. Looking forward to hear more! TYIA

I know this thread's a bit old, but I'm bord this morning. XD I've been researching a twin-sidedraft setup as well! The best I can find is on an ancient thread written by blownb310 found here: Sidedrafts are nice because they're a synchronized system using multiple throttle plates, up to one per cylinder. This helps with throttle response like on a sport bike. I personally love the ease of setting changes you can make with the DCOE, not to mention their simplicity and vast pool of resources and how-to's. As far as mounting the things, you're right. The master cylinder will need to be moved over almost behind the driver's front strut tower. Compatible parts for this are a brake master cylinder from a Sentra (B11?) up to 1986 (I found the right type under '85 on RockAuto) and a clutch pedal from a B13. A lil cutting and drilling on the bulkhead and it should fit nicely. I haven't done all this yet as my Hitachi 2bbl still works fine, but I plan to in the near-ish future.

Just realized I never did update this, so here goes. Works GREAT. After taking apart my 4-post Cali resistor, cleaning, and reassembling with conductive grease, spark is great! Didn't even need to install that matchbox dizzy from the '81. (TBH, willing to sell. PM for interest, you pay shipping and it'll go anywhere) Sadly I burn so much oil that clean plugs are fouled within 5 minutes... But again, cleaned plugs and it idled the smoothest it ever has since I bought it.

So, I have a '75 B210 I'm working on freshening up into a quirky daily. Regarding my steering wheel, the main issue is the rubber piece that holds the horn ring away from its contact point (until pressed) is old, dried, and likes to fall out. I'm wondering if anyone has tried to fit a modern horn button on an original Datsun steering wheel/hub assembly. I do quite like my 3-spoke wheel (apparently part of the GX trim but was standard on US models?), but the leather is old and sticky and the horn pad is solid as a rock. The best thing would be to get an aftermarket wheel/hub, I know, but I'd like to ask around first to see if new horn button + wheel refurbishment is viable. P.S. If you know any great tricks for removing stubborn, 40 y/o front glass weatherstripping I'd appreciate tips n' tricks. Trying acetone soon.

Good news! Summit has a coil with PR 0.45 ohms! AND it's $30 (instead of $60) Summit Racing SUM-850496 Summit Racing™ High-Output Ignition Coils | Summit Racing I'll install it with the original Cali IGN and report how it goes.

I'm getting an idea that I don't really like. Z Car Depot has a coil they sell for all S30 Z's '70-'78 (EI included) that's labeled as "Internal resistor." I'm pretty sure I could do that with my NGK coil and the matchbox, but is it possible for that early IGN module?... Even looking at B310 service info, they say the primary res. on its coil is 0.8-1.0 ohms, which is still less than what I got. Seeing as my options for affordable factory-spec are slim, what do you think? (side note: if I had continued scrolling I would've seen the Pertronix Flamethrower II, which would work. $60 for a coil seems a little crazy though)

My lil' Coupé was made in Nov. of '74 according to my door placard, making it a '75 M/Y. (but my OG trans isn't a 5-speed...) I don't disagree about the 4-post resistor, I had to rewire it back to factory spec when I got the car! You're right about the lower resistance for starting and full for running, but the coil's spec is that weird <6 ohms. I've attached some .PDF scans to see for yourself. p. 1 is for validity p. 2 is to show the testing procedure for the coil assembly (which it failed) p. 3 is a diagram of my circuit (with the Cali resistor) And p. 4 is the IGN coil page listing the goofy specs If anyone wouldn't mind linking a snazzy coil that matches up these specs OR would work with a matchbox from '79 on, that'd be much appreciated. Datsun B210 EE Section Sample.pdf

That is indeed what it tells me, I find it bizarre too! Sure as the sky is blue, it's an original service manual. It's the most detailed thing I have when compared to everything online, especially the CA IGN wiring. That's good to know about all matchboxes, thank you. Guess I won't be going to RockAuto, they keep using the same NGK coil across several model years, way into the EI era... (Or maybe my coil is just bad and I'm a lil stupid. If anyone would be able to confirm, it's NGK 48776)

I'd honestly rather they be longer, I measured my (KB210) doors and they are around 35" (eBay replacements are still a little short). Thanks a bunch all the same!

Heyo Ratsun, RockAuto doesn't like Cali cars. According to my service manual, the Cali-spec ignition system on the '75 B210 (Electronic Ignition) requires a Primary Res. 0.45-0.55 Ohm Coil. I'm not finding that for a decent price online. I'm here to ask: what is the spec primary resistance of an '81 B310 coil? I have an '81 parts car with the epic matchbox-distributor and want to know if a standard NGK coil reading about 1.4 ohms will work on that matchbox. I have reason to believe my Fed-spec coil in question is the cause of my misfire issue that has plagued the car since I began ownership. Could it be my Hitachi E12-08 Ignition Module? Possibly, but I doubt it. It's gotten uncomfortably warm during running, even for only 5 seconds or so. That leads me to suspect the coil. (increased effort due to 3x the recommended resistance) The harness tested just fine, and individually measuring the segments of my 4-post ballast resistor also check out as OK. To sum up: - Matchbox + 1.4 ohm coil = okay? - Can anyone find an affordable IGN coil < 0.6 ohms?

Hello Ratsun, I have a rather unique question. Regarding the 720, I'd like to know the length of the doors. More specifically, the length of the window opening/trim. I ask because I found reproduction rubber for that application and it looks identical to what was used on my '75 B210 (coupe, so I got the LONG doors) Here's the listing in AU: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133453332547?fbclid=IwAR0UkA3D9SDAH0yT6p7NRNsOZNdemKyYiBhDloI29RVKK3V2ZZnyHLaRkfg Thanks in advance!