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Bas90501

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  • Location
    Compton
  • Cars
    75’ 620, 18’ 4runner ORP, 91’ Integra LS
  • Interests
    Cars, photography, soccer.

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  1. I'm reviving an old thread. I finally got the space to work on my truck. My truck would start but stall on acceleration. It would also idle very strangely. On idle it the rpms would go from normal to just about cutting off every 5 seconds. By accident I found the fix. It was the throttle tension spring. The one that connects to the valve cover and the throttle on the carb. Hope that makes sense. I took it off and adjusted the timing and now it idles/runs great. The acceleration pedal gets stuck a bit but I'm happy it's running correctly. Although I do have a question. Do I need a ballast resistor of I have the matchbox dizzy? If not how do I bypass it?
  2. Does everything seem connected correctly? From what you can see?
  3. I have tried setting it 1.5-2 turns. But still can’t get it to run correctly or run at all for that matter. I did in fact get it to accelerate and even drove it around the block with good power. It seemed I had fixed it. But once it got cold it started to have trouble the same issues. Wouldn’t idle or choke when I tried to accelerate. im a noob and don’t understand your question am I using choke. I have the electric choke version. The choke seems to work fine. Butterflies are closed when cold and start to gradually open once the engine warms a up. plugs and wires seem to be okay. They’re new. thanks for the video. I’ll check it out.
  4. So the red is the hose connected from dizzy to carb. yellow isn’t connected to anything lol.
  5. I’ve searched YouTube. A lot of the videos require the car running lol. fuel is pumping. Fuel bowl seems to be getting fuel. The jets should be okay. It’s a brand new carb. It indeed squirts fuel. it starts sputters then dies. At best I’ll have a rough idle for about 1-2 minutes.
  6. The hose from the dizzy goes into carb. The hose on the left loops into itself. I’m assuming it was part of the emissions stuff. Probably supposed to go onto the air cleaner assembly.
  7. My truck was running okay once I got it to start. Drove it a few times. Then it sat for a little. Tried to start it up again. Nothing. It wouldn’t stay on. I figured the carb jets was clogged. So I bought a new Weber 32/36 dgev. I wanted one from the get go anyways. Now my truck will hardly stay on and will not accelerate. The truck has no power. I can get it to start and idle for a bit but it dies shortly after. Fuel pressure seems to be around 4 according to a pressure gauge installed inline by the PO. No vacuum leaks that I know of. I’ve tested it by spraying carb cleaner near vacuum sources. The truck has a new battery, spark plugs, wires. I’ve also tried messing with the timing and it seems to be around 10 degrees with the advance timing light set to 0. All this was tested with the truck warmed up. Thought I had tuned the carb to get the truck running but no luck. Where should I start? A lot of forum postings suggest to tune the carb while the truck is warm. But I can hardly get it to stay on. HELP!
  8. she’s back on the streets. Easiest registration ever.
  9. @datzenmikebuild date is 3/75
  10. @datzenmike HL620024471
  11. @datzenmike Both my body and frame vin numbers match up. Good news, but, I’m still confused lol.
  12. @datzenmike how would I go about figuring out what suspension/brake parts to replace/repair? would I get that info from the vin on the frame?
  13. Don’t know if this helps but I took a pic of the front as well
  14. Wtf! Lol how bad is this? what are the positives? Off the top I have disc brakes and ball joint suspension.
  15. I recently drove the truck for the first time. The brakes felt spongy. So I assumed I had to adjust the drum shoes all around. But to my pleasant surprise I have disc brakes up front! How? What conversion did the PO do? I’m looking but I can’t find anything. I also thought I had a different suspension setup. Is my setup stock? I’m thinking not. HELP!!!!
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