AussieDunc

Gurus, Any pics, tips or tricks to installing the KA24DET/CD009 into the 510. From what I know trans tunnel and engine mounts are next for fabrication! What's been done: I have my KA24DET built including custom front sump, CD009 and adaptor, front cross member reversed. This is my build post which I will updating in the next few weeks:

Hey, My engine is a KA24DET so not much space, however I don't mind modifying slightly. Understand most people won't have my engine so SR20 ideas are welcome also, should be similar amount of space. Australian companies like maddat/datsport seem a bit pricey and are short and stumpy with a single fan, American ones look to be long and skinny with dual fans but too expensive for me to transport. Can anyone assist me with some options to replicate the USA ones? Prefer not to use Chinese made from cxracing. Current build: https://ratsun.net/topic/80014-aussie-snot-510-build

Mostly finished the rear end, just waiting on my half shafts to come back from Mark Axisa in NSW. Diff: R200 Long Nose Housing (was open centre previously) Diff Centre: NISMO GT L.S.D.pro 2-Way (Part Number 38420RSS20-B5) Output side flanges: 5 x 1 (Came with the Nismo GT LSD pro kit) Modified for the porche CV's (6x1) from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia CV Shafts: Custom billet porche 6 x 1 CV's Output stub axles: Custom billet 6 x 1 flanges, well oversized from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia Rear Brakes: Mad Dat Wilwood - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/rear-brake-kit-wilwood

KA24's are becoming more popular in Australia due to SR20 price, not surprised Stuart Wilkins recomended. Personally I think I will get more out of an iron block 2.4L that frankly has a better factory head design and oil squirters. SR20 DET only came out with squirters. Regarding the height, from my research it's a very similar conversion to an SR, reversed crossmember and height are very similar. SR20's and Australian d22 KA24s(Japanese built) both come out with a front mount oil pan hence the reversed crossmember. However I got a sump and pickup from Canada out of another ka24 that has the sump on the back so hoping I won't have to reverse it, think it's the Mexican made KA. Will tell you mid January when I get the engine back from the builder.

Keeping the coil's for now, might move to coil overs pending how this drives.

Now that the rear end has finished it's modifications. Time to start cleaning it up! Will try shorten it for the next one but these are the steps I took for the first control arm, bit in it: 1. Sandblasted most of the control arm especially the hard access areas 2. Wire wheeled all remaining areas, big areas that take too long to sandblast. 3. Wire brushed really hard to get to areas. 4. Chiselled the original 1972 splatter off. 5. Final touch up with a flapper disc. 6. heavy duty degreaser watered down, (super cheap auto), and rinsed with water. 7. Wax and grim final wipe down(super cheap auto brand) 8. Primed (Supercheap heavy duty primer) 9. Por15 etch primed - This hasnt been completed yet, paint arriving tomorrow. Before: After stripping and cleaning: After priming, ready for POR15 final coat:

Spent a fair bit of time researching the intake manifolds for the KA24. Unlike SR20's (Overpriced, weak, alloy block rubbish :P) there is nothing quality out there off the shelf. The only thing available is from "Nice time tuning" which isnt the standard I am chasing. "Xcessive" who were the only other supplier has closed down! Custom intake manifold underway in the design phase. I found a guy from Mt Isa, Australia who specialises in Barra manifolds to make me one up. Version 1 - Initial Design! Version 2 - He is going back to the drawing table to better flow the triangle shaped standard port for the KA. Make the oval a bit more Triangle shaped and pull the injector back. Factory KA24 and some work "Custom Alloy Welding" @ Mt Isa, Australia do!

Hey mate, yeah mainly went with maddat because I wanted the matching wilwood calipers 🤣. I am in brisbane! Message me on Instagram if your local. https://www.instagram.com/duncandats510/

Will grind and buff it up, then send for sand blasting.. Waiting on the Nismo (38420-RS020-B) LSD to arrive! Then it will go into my R200, the kit comes with 5x1 shafts which is what I need for the porche CV's. Waiting on engine, still at the engine shop, gurdle arrived from canada today!

When I was at the exhaust shop, got one of the exhaust mount's they use. He said they weld a tab onto the exhaust I just needed to weld some flat bar and mount onto the cross member!

Plasma cut and welded in 4" pipe (Excuse the freehand plasma cutting and dogey welding, will grind the crap out of it :P) Bit of research went into this one. Visited the local exhaust shop to see the Outside Diameter of the 3" VBand Flange, it was 95mm. The 4" pipe had thick wall's so my Inside Diameter was 93mm :(. Had to get some thinner walled pipe which I got from the exhaust shop.

Reinforcing 4" Hole V2 - Decided to put a piece of flat bar going from top to bottom just in case!! Was easy enough cant hurt

Reinforcing 4" hole - Had a few ideas to reinforce this was the easiest and quickest option by far.

Making the 4" hole for the exhaust! Damn!!!! After cutting the hole - Hmm makes it look very thin!!! Have to do something about it!!

Installed MadDat adjustable rear cross member kit - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-adjustable-rear-crossmember-diy-kit