zwebslinger

I don't need to split the Z case tho, do I?

So Mike, Since my 4 speed '76 Z tranny will bolt right up to my '80 720, stupid question but I still use the 720 part numbers for clutch parts, right? Just the tranny seals and parts would be different I'm guessing. Think I'm going to stick the 4 speed in the truck so that it's back in operation while I rebuild the 5 speed (eventually). Trying to come up with a list of things I should change since I'm pulling the trans. Looks like I need a new withdrawl lever dust boot, front and rear oil seals, front cover gasket, shifter bushings, reverse and top gear switches and engine rear main seal, . Anything I'm missing? What exactly does the top gear switch even do?

Did that just now. Ridiculously easy and smooth to turn by hand. No noise whatsoever.

I don't get it either. Only thing is that the truck sat for about 15 years in a Florida garage before I got it. He says that the tranny was kinda "loose", but always shifted perfectly. There was no issue with 5th either. Never run low on GL4, and no clutch issues. The clutch grabs very nicely even today.

Looks like they only have parts for the 71C tranny, not the 71B that I have. Price is a little more than double Rockauto, which would be a non issue if the quality is there. Neither are likely from Japan tho.

Looks like the 4 speed and 5 speed of my '80 720 have identical ratios 1-4. The FS5W71B that I have just has the additional 0.882 for 5th. I'm so conflicted on what to do. Anyone ever get the rebuild kit on rockauto? Or would it be best to get parts from Nissan. If that's even possible.

Well, I've been driving her around a bit and it's still definitely popping out of 5th no matter what.😔 No grinding or sounds at idle when shifting into reverse. Not sure what to do. I do have a spare 4 speed that I took out of my 76 280Z. It shifted fine when pulled, but I wanted the OD so I got a 5 speed installed. I've heard that I can just use the bellhousing from my 720's 5 speed and bolt it right up to my spare 280z 4 speed. Is that the case and will it be plug and play after that? I'd be hesitant to do that if my current 5 speed shifted smoothly in all 4 of the first gears, but it is not fun to drive when you must shift only when it lets you put it into the next gear. Does the dedicated 280z 4 speed have longer gears than the 5 speed's first 4? Or are they essentially the same thing, with the 5 speed just having an extra OD gear? Not sure what the ratios are.

This is what I'm referring to by saying that using all of each gear is required. Still zero grinding when shifting into reverse. Oil looks darkish, but not dirty and no sludge. Wiped my finger around inside around drain hole and pulled out nothing but decent looking oil.

Well, got the plug out and was pleased to find only tiny shavings. No chunks of any kind. Drained it all and put all new GL4. Shifting seems about the same, maybe a tiny bit smoother. Using all of each gear is still required to shift. Downshifting seems a tiny bit more forgiving. 5th still kicked me out 1 mile down the road, but after about 5 miles it seemed to stay in but just going 50. Didn't get to test over that today since I didn't go near any speed limits over 45. Hoping that with a little more use on the new oil, it'll free some things up? Imagur wants my phone number. No thanks. Here's my google photos link; https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ftULgR65B575te88 My plug was pretty boogered up. Had to order a socket that worked perfectly. Reinstalled with anti-sieze after cleaning well with brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

Ok. Sounds like a plan. No noise while engaging or driving. The oil that came out when seal was replaced looked good. I caught most of it in a plastic jar. I'll try the torch/breaker method to get that plug out. How did you get a picture to show up on your post? 🙂

Looks like it would open a whole can of worms to open up the tranny. Can't even find rebuild kits for them, and not sure I'd be able to handle it. Replaced an engine in my Subaru but pulling a transmission apart scares me. From my service manual; https://photos.app.goo.gl/z9KA2KhNvaBDyGMx9

What's involved in replacing that bearing? I'm assuming the tranny has to be removed/dropped to do that? I don't typically shift soon, just giving the example of it's inability to. I've driven stick my whole life and know that altho not optimal, you can shift into whatever gear you want whenever you want and it shouldn't clunk into the gear. Should just lug on to the next gear as you said. Is it this?; TIMKEN 304WB {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Front; Base Model

Oh, and at first I thought it was popping out of 5th because once I got going about 45mph, the entire truck was shaking like a washing machine full of quarters. Discovered that the front u-joint was demolished. I was very hopeful that it was the horrible vibration that was popping it out. However after replacing the u-joints, the vibration is gone but it's still spitting out 5th.

Upon receipt of Betsy. She was parked in a garage in Florida for the last 10 years. I paid to have her brought to Virginia in an enclosed trailer rather than drag her up. Took a while to discover the shifting as I had to rebuild the brake system and replace tires, bearings, etc. Got lucky to find the gas tank was squeaky clean inside. He said she was shifting fine when parked, and I know first hand he was extremely gentle with her since 1980. Could something be sticking from sitting so long?

Bout a pint and a half. More came out of that rear seal void than I expected. However I only drove it about a mile, not jamming through gears or racing it and no faster than 50 when it was low.