Thenevercat

This is just an alternative to paying $200 for a booster or the same to have it shipped and rebuilt. When I was looking multiple times the boosters were sold out. I have printed both parts now and both fit perfectly in place. Don't need it, don't use it. I just put in the work so someone else doesn't have to.

So I ran into the notorious problem of my booster being dead on the 620. I went online scowered the forums and came up empty handed. So I bought a universal 7" booster from summit racing and hopped in fusion360 to make some models to print/mill for prototyping. Brake booster <- Booster I used I'll list the adapter plate on thingiverse and the master adapter as well if anyone is interested. So far I know ill have the extend the pedal shaft on the new booster and the output pin will need to be replaced by a longer bolt. All of this isn't happening over night but if anyone cares to try/tweak the parts let me know and I can send you the raw fusion files. .STL files <- Files here

Coming along. Decided to go raw metal with a diamond DTM clear coat (not coated just yet) Lowered 3" now (wish I could go a tad lower but not willing to risk ripping out the torsion adjusters driving) LOTS of new parts (new tail lights and plugs wired up, new door and windows seals) Currently the dash has been pulled (the damn panel shattered so time for a custom dash) Rebuilt all the switches and steering column controls. Wheels and tires coming soon 15x10 -51 (or -60) still need to math with the flares. Tracked down a bunch of vacuum stuff on the carb so pulling and redoing the gasket. Found out I have a Canadian carb...? So making a block off for the booster this weekend as well. New bed latches OTW. FYI if you order the window seals from ebay (Thailand) the inner seal will not fit out of the box. Buddy has a 5.3 just hanging out I might throw in it. But still hoping I can find a KA24de for a reasonable price.

I was sure to order ones that have the Y connector. I was able to bleed them via the banjo bolt, maybe not the most effective way but seems to have worked in a pinch.

She's already rolling fine. The main concern is containing the frame rust and repairing the cancer spots that have already developed. Also picked up a new friend I think fits nicely with her. The clutch hydro system is all completely new now. the brakes are the only trouble (mainly those stupid 3 way banjo type wheel cylinders in the rear) Both of the rear bleeder screws snapped off and I'll have new wheel cylinders here hopefully within the week. Drove her around the neighborhood before the brakes locked up a little and aside from some carb adjustments she runs and pulls hard! As far as the light body work I've started grinding, filing and fixing most of the bed on one side. My main issue now is the hood has clearly been wrinkled so I'm on the hunt for a hood in better shape that's not going to cost me the price of the truck.

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What's up, I've been lurking for a while now and figured it was time to introduce myself and my new undertaking. Behold my $400 running (not quite driving yet) 620. I met a guy at a bar who later became a drinking buddy, long story short we all ventured to his place one night for a bonfire and this gem as sitting in the driveway. I asked him about the truck and he said "$400 it's yours! It runs but hasn't in a couple years." Me being the sadistic person I am said, "SOLD!" I've always wanted a Japanese pickup and this was on my top 5. After a AAA call a flat bead and a sleepless night of frantically making a shopping list I started the process of killing the cancer and getting her going. At first it was just firing on what I could dump in the carb. PERFECT! That means she runs (and man did it sound great!) Downside that means pretty much everything from the brake master and the clutch master/slave needed to be replaced. I saw where they had deleted the mechanical pump and swapped in an electric, took the electric out, cleaned it up and got it pumping again. And she lives! Needs a little fine tuning but she fired right up! https://www.facebook.com/100042390154303/videos/395187081904294/ I have some major plans, but for now the most important thing is getting her safe to drive again. I post almost daily updates on IG and TikTok: @Thenevercat The current list is: Rocker panels. - $79.58 + shipping Fenders. - $100 + shipping Blower motor assembly. Windshield. - $150-250 Rear suspension. - $60 + shipping* Brake lines - ORDERED Brake master cyl. - (Wilwood $134) standard $35 Rear wheel cylinders - $40 front L/R wheel cyl - $36 Clutch master cyl - ORDERED Clutch slave cyl. - ORDERED Fuel regulator* clutch master hard line. Cheers everyone! Nik