Ejack

The interior is great, and the frame is solid, but the body is pretty rough. Not quite ready to undertake that yet, but I'll definitely let you know if I want that bed. Thanks!

It's been finished for a little over a week. It's hard to tell how well it works because it has consistently been 90-95 degrees and sunny since I've had it. In these conditions, it's not ice cold inside like on a new car mainly because I have no tint and I don't think my windows are polarized, but it's kept me from sweating on my way to work which is what I was after. Once the sun goes down though, It's amazingly cold and a few nights ago I was driving around and it actually kept cycling on and off because the evaporator was getting close to freezing! I'm really impressed with my tiny Honda condenser and ancient Nissan evaporator. The stock fan is really loud on the 3 and 4 setting, but the airflow is there if you want it.

Hello world! Over the past few months, I have been painstakingly putting AC on my Nissan 720 KC 4x4 pickup which was a success!. I'll detail the parts I needed here first: **DISCLAIMER** THIS WAS NOT AN EASY BUILD, REPRODUCE AT YOUR OWN RISK **Photos At Bottom** https://postimg.cc/gallery/6xSQ6qH 1995 Nissan Hardbody -Compressor bracket -Compressor -Low pressure line (evaporator->compressor) -High pressure line (compressor->condenser) -Condenser -High pressure line (condenser->evaporator) -High pressure sensor -Drier 1985 Nissan 720 -Evaporator -Evaporator box -AC switch (optional if you want a clean original looking build) -AC relay -AC thermo switch (this goes in the evaporator to prevent it from freezing over) -Evaporator low-side fitting (hack saw required) 1999 Honda Civic (don't give me shit for this) -Condenser -High pressure line (compressor->condenser) -High pressure line (condenser->drier) Misc. -NAPA 9355 V-belt -HVAC Super Pro https://www.amazon.com/Highside-HS32098-HVAC-Solderless-Bonding/dp/B01LZT77G7/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=hvac+super+pro&qid=1595816127&sr=8-1 -Swage Tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RT3D79/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So, what did I do? PLUMBING Well, once I had all my parts, the first thing I did was install the compressor. The d21 compressor bracket bolts right onto the z24 block, which made it easy, then I installed the compressor to the bracket. It's a very tight fit between my steering box and my compressor, however, there is no rubbing. From here, I worked my way around the refrigeration cycle. I modified the d21 high pressure line (compressor->condenser) by chopping the old fitting off meant for the hard body condenser and joined my fitting for the Honda condenser. The Honda condenser will fit in between the radiator and the front braces. To accomplish this, pull the radiator towards the engine and slip in the condenser. Take out the hood release and bend down the lever to allow for more room for the condenser. The latch will still be functional, but a little bit stiffer. Mount the condenser in all 4 corners with custom brackets. Next, I modified my high pressure "out" tube for the Honda condenser by completely bending it into a "U", chopping off the end that points towards my drier and fusing my d21 fitting that fits into my d21 drier onto the Honda tube. The drier fitting was scavenged from a hard body condenser I naively bought. From there, I made a small vertical post next to my drier, then hose-clamped the drier to the post to have it mounted and not going anywhere. The high pressure switch goes in the drier. The d21 high pressure hose to the evaporator actually fits super well in the 720 and goes right into the drier via an existing hole under the inner right headlight. The evaporator side of that high pressure tube needs to be swaged (expanded), and a spacer ring should be installed behind the o-ring for it to properly seal.The evaporator core and box went in with no trouble since it was made for that truck, but before it hoes in, you have to modify the low-pressure port by sawing off the old female fitting and fusing a male fitting from a hard body evaporator core. Swage the copper low side tube once the fitting is off, stick in the new fitting, and fuse. Connect the low side tube on the evaporator and then into the compressor after this modification: Cut off 1/3 of the compressor side fitting closest to the engine to avoid hitting that part on the distributor. This didn't sit with me right, but it's on the low side and it holds pressure for me because I doubled up on the seals. Also, drill out the remaining bolt hole on that fitting to allow the hose to pivot away from the steering shaft and avoid rubbing it. Note: For the plumbing fuses, I first tried brazing. After failing miserably, I switched to HVAC pro for my fuses. I also needed a swaging tool to expand the tubing to fit the other tube into it. ELECTRICAL Good news! My truck came with all the wiring I needed from the factory! Firstly, I put a fuse in my empty AC fuse slot. Next, I made an adapter that connects my AC switch to a 2 prong outlet under my dash. Next, I soldered an adapter that connects a 4 prong outlet under my dash to my AC relay. Next, I found my high side pressure sensor wires in between my washer fluid reservoir and my battery. I extended those 2 wires all the way down to my high side switch on my drier by straddling my factory wire harness. Lastly, I connected my 1 wire on my compressor to the factory red compressor wire hiding under my ignition coil. PHILOSOPHY Why did I do this instead of taking the parts off a 720 to put AC on my truck? 720 AC parts are very hard to source and I was not able to find any OEM parts online. Honda civic and Nissan d21 parts are by contrast, super cheap, and easy to source, so if any of this breaks, it wont be the end of the world and I can get replacement parts. Also, it was a hell of a lot cheaper than a Vintage Air system. CONCLUSION This is a gross oversimplification of what I have done, so if anyone is interested in reproducing this project, let me know and I may be willing to take better and more photos as well as a more detailed description of what exactly I did. You guys helped me out with a fuel problem a few months back, do I thought I would do this write-up as reciprocity. Enjoy! PICTURES free image hosting site

Thanks for all the suggestions on this issue. I finally found out that it was a clogged fuel filter. Pretty embarrassing but in my defense, it was only 6 months old with a brand new fuel tank. I have a feeling the new tank had debris in it from the manufacturer which caused my filter to clog prematurely. I hope someone can learn from my frustration. Don't rule out new(ish) parts!

No leaks. Also, I have not touched the carb settings except for the idle speed screw. I figure Weber knows their carbs better than I. The reason I am hesitant to start fiddling with the settings is because the truck runs great at idle and for 30 mins of driving! It's only after everything gets warmed up that my issue arises.

Just got back. It took a solid 30 mins of driving for the issue to finally pop up. Unplugging the distributor seems to have no effect. I did notice that before I was having the issue, the idle is normal (800-1000 RPM). Once I got back to my driveway the lowest idle I could get was 1200 RPM, AND when I just barely touch the idle, the truck revs up to 4k RPM then comes back down... that's new. Perhaps when the truck gets warm enough after enough sustained driving, something expands and causes a vacuum leak?

Checked voltage to the pump for good measure. A steady 11.4v going to unplug the distributor wire and go for a hard drive

Just did this test. I'm only getting 1 litre per minute with the engine not running (12v). The fuel pump I have is the Autobest F4329 (brand new)

The coils are also new. Forgot to mention those. No vacuum leaks that I can hear, but I will however spray some carb cleaner around the adapter just to be sure.

Yep! Same steel line.

Brand new Weber. All the new parts were put on at the same time as the truck sat for 10 years. The truck actually runs really good and pulls good. It just has this intermittent issue under really heavy load. Wires are correct, and yes that is my distributor. Haven't replaced the distributor with a new one.

Hey all! I have a 1984 Nissan 720 KC 4x4 pickup. When I go up hills (heavy load) my truck sputters and stumbles like it's running out of fuel. Not quite sure what's going on because I just did a major tune up. New gas tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, carburator (Weber), cap and rotor, plugs and wires. My thought is to adjust the fuel ratio screw or the carburator float level. Any ideas before I start tinkering are appreciated! Picture of plug attached.

I figure I would check here first to see if there were any takers before moving to CL. Thanks for all the reply's!

Hello World! I have a 1984 Nissan 720 with a camper shell on top. The camper is not in great shape and I'm thinking about throwing it away, but I'm conflicted because it's kind of a relic, and not completely in disrepair. Can anyone tell me if it's something worth holding on to? Is it something anyone wants for their own project? Thanks!