Datrot71

Great! I may just swap them then , also depending on the condition of the yoke on the used drive shaft I ordered. That's what I figured, my 620 is stock height. Everyone on other group just tell me to go one piece without explaining other implications, glad I choose to stay with a two piece shaft I won't be making the same mistake twice, I'm going to a drive line shop this time around

The rear section of the shaft has not one but two defined dents in it, unfortunately my friend decided to progress without me there and I come back to two flat spots on the shaft from him hammering the u-joints out. Sucks but things happen I suppose and its trash now. I'm most likely SOL because I used the correct size socket ( 27mm ) but it's the threads that are an issue. The nut started tightening when loosening the flange nut ,maybe because I not only reused it a second time but also used it to press the new carrier bearing in with the flange * cringe*. I'll give you credit and say you are brave using a plasma cutter to cut the flange nut lol . I was thinking of ways to cut it but the chisel and plasma cutting sounds promising if I'm careful enough haha. I'll admit this was just a snowball of inexperience lol but now I gotta dig myself out and hopefully the "new to me" shaft from ebay will get me back on track. FYI I'm going to a driveline shop this time around to service it.

Hey everyone, so I am in a bit of a pickle. I have a 76" 620 with a 4 speed I assume the transmission is a F4W71B I recently removed the stock driveshaft and asked someone to help me rebuild it and thought they knew how to do it since I was only use to replacing driveshaft as a whole. This is where things went south... long story short there are dents in the tube that cant be fixed, the front section of the driveshaft flange nut is stripped and doesnt want to loosen, its a mess. It's hard to find a driveshaft and the only one I found is out of a 78" 5 speed. I have read that the 5 speed is shorter. can this be extended ? and is the yoke that goes into the transmission the same in a 4 speed and 5 speed. Any help is appreciated thank you . P.s. I would prefer not to go to a one piece driveshaft

http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/robby2210/slideshow/

http://<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/robby2210/embed/slideshow/"></iframe> hopfully again these come out, but all the areas i took photos are where rust is most visable and starting to get deep in the metal and or need to be cut out. The driver rear area with all the blue tape is just a quick temporary fix. I sprayed rust converter after sanding it. I noticed the paint was cracked bc of bodyfiller and started to collect water and started to rust that area out. Since winter is coming my goal is to prevent rust from continuing or atleast slow it down since “rust never sleeps” so i can focus on one area at a time and repair it properly.

Great idea! I have a helmet someone gave me thats auto dimming so i can save a couple bucks. I have to get this welder soon since i knocked some rust loose i feel like time is ticking , especially since winter is right around the corner

Thanks everyone for the info! Yea by no means is this car ever going to be “Barrett Jackson” worthy. This is just strictly a personal project to have fun with driving and going to local shows. The rust you see there is the worst of it . Luckly the driver side is soild ( poking with a screw driver and taping with a hammer) . The other swiss cheese rust areas are under the rear seat where its rounded but not off to the sides or forward of the rear support which litterally was a surprise when i lifted the sound deading, the trunk floor and spotty areas around the rear tail lights and front rad support and lower rear quarters. I’ll try to take pics later in the week as the weather has been nasty. Also welding wise i have a friend who is teaching me welding with a mig and tig while i wait to start welding school. So far tig seems hard to pick up but looks great when it goes right. I’ll let you all know which machine i’ll end up getting and update as i go along. Btw what guage steel is generally used in this area for repair?

Not at the moment but I plan on purchasing one in the next week. Just doing a little bit of research between tig vs mig ,also brand wise.. lincoln , hobart, or harbor freight’s brand

Hey everyone! I'm new to the group and new to Datsun's in general. I have a automotive background so I kind of know what I may be in for, ultimately challenging my skills with this new project, a 71' 510. First thing I learned about these cars is that Rust is a huge issue due to thin metal used. The first and biggest rust area and maybe most common from what I read is the lower front corners of the frame. hopefully the provided pictures will show. My questions are.. is this amount of rust repairable? do I need a donor car or can I get away with making my own pieces? and can anyone point me in the right direction to start repairing this level of rot. Thanks everyone!http:// http://