xonix_digital

Can't we just screen print the rat on a piece of rusty sheet metal?

That truck sounds awesome! But I wouldn't commit to anything until I thoroughly inspected the chassis work.

Especially if you plan to dd.

On with the pics! :D

Club4ag is by far the best place to find wheels like that. I joined just for the wheel classifieds and scored the perfect set for my car.

Good luck.

Nice name! Lol

Added.

Yeah work does a good job with their wheels. But I know nothing about 411s.

Nvm... this thread fails.

Where is the 620? Am I crazy?

Malware blows.

I use my Mac for tentacle porn.

I wouldn't have posted asking for pics if I had found them by searching.

Anyone got pics?

Hey guys. I love 620s and I think Diamond racing wheels would look good on them but I have never seen them together.

Somebody please help! :D

ps. I have seen a grand total of 3 cars that I think DR wheels look good on.

Agreed about windows security essentials.

Dowload malwarebytes. Its free and will fix you r problem. I use it all the time on my clients workstations.

And I recommend Chrome for a browser.

Damn man your monster truckin it. Get some lowering springs!

:lol:

I <3 Boso style.

Whoa. The copper tubing looks AWESOME!

:blink:

Hey guys,

I got to spray the newly stripped wheel wells and inner body.

Here is my paint setup.

Cheapy Harbor Freight HVLP gun works great for spraying sealers and primers.

This is my ridiculously tall spray contraption.

It consists of the HVLP gun, a pressure regulator, and a water filter.

Mixed the paint with 1 part Lacquer thinner to 4 parts Zero rust to thin it out enough to spray.

Spray away!

Cowl

Under Fenders

Rear wheel wells

Pass wheel well

I am very happy with the results. Zero rust is a waterproof sealer primer that seals out air and water making it chemically impossible to rust.

But I'm sure my Datsun will find a way around that.... lol :lol:

http://www.workwheelsusa.com/news-post.php?article=80

The new Work Meiseter CR01s are as close as you can get to that style with a dish I think.

These just came out.

Weld racing also has a similar looking wheel but neither of these are 7 spoke.

Everything causes a huff over there. lots of guys with pathological needs to feel better than everyone else. "Doughebags" is the technical term.

 

Let me guess, they gave you a finger wagging 8 page lecture on squish zones and closed chambered heads/issues with dished pistons?

Fuck it, run what you want to run. keep an eye on it, and if it detonates, swap heads to an open chamber.

 

 

BTW nice job so far man! Can't wait to see it finished.

Lol exactly!

I mean I bought the motor complete for $200. Lol

Im just not on that level with it I guess. Id rather blow it to smithereens while learning why, than have some guy calling me ignorant for not caring.

Dude those signs are bad ass!

Thanks! I was extremely aggressive on the phone with the guy haha.

There were three of us that responded on Craigslist, but I guess the other two guys were too timid to threaten him with violence if he didn't sell to them! :D

I'm half kidding. :P

But yeah I was very happy to find them last weekend.

That is crazy. Do you like the outcome?

From the chemical stripper? Yeah I think it's a great product.

I have to treat the metal afterward with Picklex20 so it doesn't rust while waiting for paint.

That's why it looks all chalky in some of the pics. It chemically deactivates the rust and turns it dark grey and white.

wow cant wait to see more, you just gonnna restore her? what you gonna do for paint?

My plans include a 2.8 swap and suspension modifications for the most part. Everything else is going to be pretty stock.

As for the Color I have chosen KV3 which shipped on Gen 5 Maximas as "Grey Lustre" and is currently manufactured by PPG as Charcoal Metallic and by BASF as Green Grey Metallic. They both look the same to me in the books, but when compared to the originally shipped color they are significantly different. Not terribly concerned with that though.

What kind of "chemical" stripper are you using? Seems pretty effective.

I use Jasco Paint and epoxy remover. by far the best consumer available stripper I have ever used.

Works like magic.

Before:

Application:

After 10 minutes:

Wipes right off with a paint scraper:

nice score on the maxima head :cool:

 

 

that motors going to run very nicely with that and the triples :D

I very much hope you are correct! my setup caused a bit of a huff over at HybridZ haha.

We'll see how it goes. :lol:

Later, I chemically stripped the outside of the entire vehicle.

Cleaned up the Engine bay rough spots and removed all of the hardlines. I used a mechanical stripper (paint remover) for this and do not recommend it. I will use a combination of chemicals and sand blasting from now on.

And started stripping the other body panels. (a little dinged and dented I know) I will have a little "hammering out" to do.

And then I had the bright idea to disassemble the doors so I can paint them inside and out and make sure nothing gets missed. What a nightmare.

I will probably not be doing the other door this way since it was such a pain in the ass and i don't know how i'm going to get this whole thing back together. lol

This is the engine bay after a quick blasting with my portable sand blaster.

Gas cap area blasted.

Chemically stripped and sand blasted the wheel wells.

Up next, the beginning of under sealing with Zero Rust.

A while back I picked up an L28 to swap in.

Got it removed from the 4 speed tranny and mounted to the stand.

And stripped it down to the block.

To my surprise, the N47 cylinder head turned out to be from an 84 Maxima. The "MN47" as the Internet has named it.

You can tell that it is from a Maxima because of the heart shaped combustion chambers. On a Z car N47 they are dished round chambers. this results in a bump in compression and if you are running flat pistons you get a quench or "squish" effect. I will be running the stock L28 dished pistons since I'm not extremely interested in a 10+ compression ratio and the detonation issues that could arise from that so i'll just run it in the mid 9's for comp and see how she does.

Also on the rebuilding table are my triple Weber DCOE40s.

The throttle linkage is going to have to be straightened out as the previous owner had bent it to get it to "work" lol.

Picked these up on Craigslist this past weekend for short money. :cool:

The closest thing I could find for a date was on the Parts and Service sign it has a (8-70) on the lower right hand corner.

Anyone know if this is the date the sign was issued?

Hey guys,

Back from the dead over here!

I have made lots of progress since I last posted a year ago.

I have been posting up with my progress via my build blog:

Dirty S30

http://DirtyS30.blogspot.com

But I <3 Ratsun so I will start keeping this build thread up to date as well.

Here are some pics showing some of the highlights of what shes been up to.

New House for me and my Z!

Setting up shop.

On Stands

Teardown begins

Man pulling up all that sound deadener sucked.

Chemical Stripper

Drop it like it's hot

Pulling the stock L24

HIYAH!!!

Much more to come.

motor specs plz :P

As far as I know it is just a straight up L24 with Triple Weber carbs, and a stainless steel header/exhaust combo.

The carbs need to be tuned still but she runs nice. A little dip in power if you mash the gas, but I assume that a proper carb config would resolve that.

I'm super interested in figuring all this out tho.