BREdatsun

I have changed the oil before removing the valve cover and taking these photos. After discovering the crooked rocker arms in horror, I started hunting for the missing pads and other debris so I mopped up the oil. Even though most parts were new back in the 90s, I now believe the engine was assembled incorrectly, wrong gaps, etc. The 2nd shop who I paid to help me get this car on the road did NOT check the valve train, they installed the carbs/linkage and fired it up. Damage done, sigh... I do blame myself for not being more hands on but this on and off for too many decades. To start all over, where do I get new Nissan 2 pc. rocker arms? The dealer? Any ideas for a new performance camshaft ideas for a SSS head? Thanks for all the advice.

The parts search has begun. Thanks for all the help.

Here are more photos of the cam: https://picasaweb.google.com/101900345761190281677/DatsunValveIssue?authkey=Gv1sRgCNCG18T95cW70QE&feat=directlink#6017890987813393266 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X6xD-XXfCIKrW1vPFoRg-hCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink I was not there when the car was started. In hindsight, I regret not being more hand-on. This is costing me time and $ now.

Thanks for the oil tip KAZ. There are several holes on the spray bar. My goal is to build period correct 510 within my budget.

To my knowledge, the person who assembled the engine did not know I was putting on a spray bar. Why would a builder block the oil passages? But then again why was it put together with some valves tight and some way loose? I'm over it, there were too many people that touched this motor and too much time has passed. I trust it was put together properly. Not shown in my photos, are oil holes on the Racer Brown cam. I did my 1st oil change a few months ago and it just sat in my garage. The oil came out dark and there was metallic particles, thought it was normal for new motor. You guys could be right about oil starvation, with only standard gauges on the dash, who knows for sure. I'm going to attach a oil pressure gauge before restarting this motor. Is the dealer the best place to get new rockers and valve lash guides? Any recommendations for mild cams for SSS L18 with 10:1 compression? To be used on the street and a few track days. Thanks for all the replies. Too bad none of you are near San Francisco :crying:

The Tilton Spray Bar accessory that I installed was intended to supplement the factory oiling mechanism so I believed. Are you saying that it maybe reducing the oil pressure to the cam? This engine was being broken in, I did not over rev it or put less than 200 miles on it. Can say I know exactly what the shop did when they started it up initially. Sigh, a lot of damage for a short time frame. I would prefer to replace components with new parts, after all, most of this motor was new. The "Blue/Purple" tint on the rockers is assembly dye to see what contact points are during wear, not for overheating. Also, this car is not driven, so the valve train would be oil free at top. I did not crank it before removing the valve cover. I don't recall if the rockers are aftermarket, could be. I just checked the valve clearances, Not good: E - Tight I - Loose I - Loose E - Loose E - Loose I - Broken Lash Pad I - Broken Lash Pad E - Tight Thanks for posting my photos, I have not figured that out yet.

First of all, thanks for the quick and helpful replies: Good point about the oil pressure. I will get a pressure gauge before restarting it. Here is the add on oil Spray-Bar https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5-Em8woYye_p8zX0LSxxihCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink Rocker arm (keep in mind this was new just broken in) https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A4LaDwDxgEyeY8yFbK5sLhCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink I'm suspecting the assembly of the motor and/or incorrect parts as being responsible. I need to figure out a plan of action.

I have started this 2 Door 510 project in the late 80s. Many other cars, hobbies and life put this car on the back burner. My motor is a L-18 with SSS head, Dual Mikuni 40s, Datsun Comp long manifold, flat-top Z pistons, Racer Brown Cam (high-lift/short duration), Tilton oil Spray-Bar, MSD, Allison Ignition, Electric Fuel-Pump, Roadster Clutch & lightened Flywheel. Everything is new, barely broken-in around 200 miles. Machine work was done by Stirtz in the 80's. The engine was put together by my buddy's shop the 90s and sat on a stand for 2 decades. A few years ago, a local tuner shop got the car in running order and I drove back to my garage. I occasionally start it and back it up when I want to get to my lawnmower. After hearing a valve-train noise, I decided to adjust my valves today. Lifting the valve cover, I knew something was wrong when I saw that 2 rocker arms was out of alignment. I could swing them L<->R. The 2 Broken Rocker Guide (Lash Pads) were loose on top of the head. I was totally bummed. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sUvSlIr04vNFHK7yXDoeohCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sFDV0yPzGj14ZC_7hBsxoxCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/61yuOK58xOt7YzyTy2bV3BCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JG_4xV5dQUqoG3rpUw2pvBCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ihp_TghXi31GhwcKYbGhFxCj9dPUYz1_7kJSIyEk_P0?feat=directlink I dropped by the Nissan dealer and they had a few parts options but he had no idea what the specs were.... They had a digital calipers at the counter and I measured .20 mm on my broken valve guide. One of my pics had the 3 part options: 13218-21000, 13218-A3500, 13218-21010 was shown on the Nissan computer. My questions: Where should I go to buy the Valve Guides? Do you think the 2 broken loose pieces will cause any damage? Can't find them. Any ideal if I need to regrind or replace my cam? Any ideas of the root cause? I have my guesses. Pardon the long story, but I wanted you to have a frame of reference. I'm a long time lurker, 1st time poster. Thanks!