bunny reid

Hey all, been a long time since I've been active here. I've had a 1976 B210 for about ten years. It ran fine when I got it, odd hiccup. 4 years ago it starting to have intermittent no start issues, still ran fine when it wanted to start. I'm trying to get the thing going now that it's been sitting and not ran for about 4 years. I neglected it for too long it seems. My current issue is ignition. I'm looking for a little insight as its been driving me crazy for a couple days. Discovered weak, intermittent spark from coil lead, and decided to replace the following: Coil, Condenser, Resistor, Point breaker, Plugs & wires. Tonight when I left the shop I discovered only weak spark from coil lead when letting off the "Start" position; while engine turning still over briefly in "On" position but refusing to start. My understanding is there is two circuits for the condenser while either in "Start" or "Run". I cant figure out why Im not getting spark in "Start". Circuit testing found my neg coil lead has seemingly solid ground while disconnected from coil. Ground breaking and closing but seems a little spotty at condenser/coil terminal of dizzy (could be shaky hands with my probe). While neg lead is hooked up to coil reading about 7v. WTF? Potentially loose/weak ground in distributor? Coil resistances checked out. Resistor tested about 1ohm which is a little low, but I dont believe this to be source of issue, am I wrong? Resistor gets too hot to touch and makes me think shorted? I cant find a diode in the diagram and resistor is simple wire coil with no internal diode so assuming can be hooked up either way. Haven't opened the harness yet, diagram shows a capacitor that I'm going to check out along my way. The brain teaser is the 3 pin connector for my coil leads and I'm hoping someone has a straight forward answer or can confirm for me. I have my 12.X volts on hot pin, and solid ground on my neg pin, but the third pin (blue wire to transistor) is reading dead (no voltage, no ground). My understanding of the wiring diagram is these leads go to "Ignition Transistor". Fuse is good. Havent tracked down wires from transistor to dizzy yet. Can someone tell me if the third pin is supposed to be dead with KOEO? Is it hot or neg KOER or in "start," something like that? Or should I continue following this wire? Diagram shows it leading to transistor-ignition switch-resistor. Any possible insight from a Datsun guru or someone who has solved a similar issue would be greatly appreciated because Im starting to get lost in the weeds as to which direction to head first. I am inclined to believe possible short at or in the transistor, or broken wire in circuit. All this being said I am not a points ignition expert in the slightest. My wiring seems to be accurate to the 1975 B210 wiring diagram. Only one terminal at distributor, so the common "Matchbox Dis." diagram found on the forums confuses me further, as I have negative control leading from dizzy (breaker) to coil, and haven't noticed any hot wires from dizzy to coil (possibly blind, ignorant and dumb). Car has been stored in garage for the entirety of it's life and isnt super corroded at main grounds. I also haven't backpedaled yet and confirmed the new condenser isn't faulty which is a possibility. Leaning towards the transistor giving me grief. Did I mention I'm getting lost in the weeds? Thanks for any response.

i got a text half an hour ago, this guy sold my engine two days before im going to pick it up... i gotta source an engine, going dark for now

the amount of rubber im planning to kill has definitely got me set on the irs, especially with upgrade options for the diff available down the road. Im not sure wheres hes from; but he flips his 4dr on its head to mount some xmembers... lucky bastard! anyways, even with some custom cross members to fab/weld to the frame, or as datsunfreak suggests, if only 4 holes are needed, it cant be so scary guys! wheres the ambition? :) datsunfreak, can i ask you to take some pictures of your IRS in your b210? sounds too good to be true!

I've been looking at pictures of someone on here that did it on a 4dr sedan.. didnt look too scary.. I have a stock 76 2dr sedan! :angel: have you done s13 front suspension as well? pics soon, once i finish the face lift... whats the easiest way to post pictures on here?

good input, i have been doing a lot of reading up on everything since yesterday and understand it much better, hoping to buy a rolling s13 shell to start off the swap after a can/am box is in my hands. s13 front and rear suspension swap with s13 rear end, crossmember, and once everythings mounted, get a driveshaft made up.. sounds like a plan! uh oh.. i was thinking about getting her towed to the shop to be measured for the shaft, probably a good idea right? datsunfreak, what kind of modifications did you have to make to the subframe/chassis? im moving soon to a place with open shop space, but limited tools for now. luckily, a friend of mine works at a track and has access to a variety of tools that will help through out this build. i can feel it, the wheels are turning!

what he said!

I live north of Nanaimo on Vancouver Island up in the great white north! King Bee, I meant easy as in not fabbing out-the-ass to make it fit. Im unfamiliar with diffs, but let me rephrase: would potentially using a r200 diff be harder to install/mount rather than the h190?

Hey guys, Im getting a full KA-T swap (sr turbo, no crazy HP numbers) pretty soon with stock 240 5spd, and im gonna need some tech help. Has anyone else done this before? (my hearts torn on which answer im looking for, if you catch my drift) Figured Id start discussions now - so lets start with what I need! I need rad suggestions (intercoolers fairly small) measuring it out once the engines in - good or bad idea? Im planning a battery relocation once i pull the A14 where to track down a S110 200sx x-member, and/or an h190 diff? or any other diff suggestions? I would love to use an R200V if its easy enough. driveline will be last on my list and probably not considered until everything else is dropped, unless theres an known, easier solution. any ideas on how much a custom one could be made for? yes, this thing will be tested, probably often, but it most definitely wont be beaten. looking and running good, along with reliability are my main concerns. I want to keep this thing forever and last but not least, is getting a CAN/AM box as easy as pm'ing Icehouse? Ill be using this as a build thread, it can be moved if needed, i dont mind. I am new to big projects as such, but i am willing, eager, and love to learn, especially about cars. That being said - start talking to me! Keep the ridicule to a minimum and keep the ideas coming! I know you guys know way more than I, and Im counting on you! Thanks boys!

y u no ship to canada :'(

After failing miserably to quickly find any jdm/adm bumpers (that are affordable to me) and the impulsive need to get rid of my ugly 5mph bumpers ive decided on camaro split bumpers for the rear. i quite like them to be honest :$ Any suggestions for a decent looking front bumper, or knows of a 1200 bumper being sold, OR if anyone can actually find the steel barracuda re-prods? Also, does anyone know if classic datsun's 1200 front BRE lip will mount on a B210?

Hey guys, new to ratsun! got some typical noob bs for ya! About to pick up my B210, first order of business: jdm 120y bumpers! Anyone got a lead on some? Specifically the rear, but would take both for the right price (yes, im checking ebay) and does anyone know how 16x9 wheels might fit, all around? want some poke, 20mm offset... im planning on getting some classicdatsun.com bolt on flares in the future as well. ive read on another board that CDMs fit well on the b210, just unsure if the rivet-on style or bolt-on style was being discussed... thanks in advance guys