'73 510 2Dr coupe with L20B and matching dogleg.
So bought the car about a month ago. It had been sitting for nearly a year, and the seller did have to bleed the clutch before I test drove it. It's been firm ever since then so I figured it was just a fluke of sitting or some tiny leak. That was until last week when it started to go softer. Finally lost the clutch completely a few days later. After reading my manual on the drivetrain and looking it over I thought it was the slave cylinder. Lots of oil in the boot and more every pump so I was thinking blown slave cylinder.
So ~$12 later at fcpimport.com and a week later I have an exact replacement slave. Well, spent about an hour manually (wrench, pedal, wrench repeat) bleeding the thing with a buddy and got nowhere. Picked up a speed bleeder and hit it for about another 15 minutes today. Getting nowhere. Air escapes every time, but still no pressure in the pedal at all. I noticed that if I hold the pedal to the floor I can see the brake fluid move in the speed bleeder very slowly.
So. Now I'm thinking I need a master cylinder as well. Pulling one from the local pull-and-pay tomorrow from either their 510 or one of the 620s. Gotta get this thing moving again. Looking at also purchasing a new one as well to have on the parts shelf. I've been hitting the forums and google and haven't found anything on this. When I went back to fcpimport looking they have these but I'm not sure if it's compatible. For reference, I have this style of clutch master but would REALLY prefer not to have to fork over even $75 for a master.
So besides looking over my shoulder, my question to you folks is: Will the OEM clutch despite it's single reservoir design work for me? Or do I need to find an original style one?