Taz

tbh if your engine is running well you shouldnt need a choke if you let it warm up a little before you drive off. Its a good idea to warm your engine for a minute or two anyway, because it makes the oil flow better.

Spring comes late in Tassie. :( I have had to admit defeat with the exhaust, but thanks for the advice. The down pipe is too long, which puts the angle way out as well because there is a slight bend in the pipe. So If anyone decides to put a Z22 in a 4wd D21, the down pipe from a Z24 will not fit without being modded. Niether will extractors. I only have an arc welder, which produces really crap welds on exhaust pipe, or blows holes in it, so I have booked it with an expert for monday. It might cost me an extra 100-200 bucks but I dont mind because I think I got the bus for a bargain. 1986 4wd Navara tub tray ute with brand new 31x10 seringetti muddies and black sunraysers, reco Z22 with tow cam, and webber carbie that runs smooth even with no exhaust attached to manifold :p reco LTD diffs with breathers front and back, and new heavy duty torsion bars, for $2500 :D I have a few jobs to do to get RWC. Fit new horn, tubing for windscreen washers, flairs on guards. Also run some fresh sealer along top of windscreen, scrape the way too dark tint off the windows, and tail lights, and remove the massive taco from the dash. Hoping to get all this done over the weekend, exhaust fitted monday and RWC check tuesday. I might post some pics when I get it on the road. btw way I am selling the taco if anyone is interested. it looks brand new, its a autometer sportscomp II with shift light, and seems to work fine.

Yea your right. I ended up contacting an exhaust expert, and he tells me that if I dont want to cut the exhaust, that I need to remove the front drive shaft, support the rear of gear box and remove cross member. I thought this sounded like the way to go, so I got the drive shaft out easy, but why on earth did they run the brake and fuel lines rigtht over the top of the drivers side cross member nuts, ARRRGH! I got one undone but the other is super tight, and is realy hard to get a spanner on, impossible to get a socket and ratchet on because of the fuel and brake lines. Anyways I have soaked it with CRC, I will let it soak in and give it another shot tomorrow after work. Why is nothing ever easy, when your lying on your back under a vehicle in the freezing cold with all kinds of crap falling in your eyes. lol

Thanks for the tip I dont know why I didnt think of that. I guess its because I am wanting to get it in without any cutting. I am going to give it another crack when I get home from work. If all else fails I will try your Idea.

Thanks for your help. Any Ideas On the best way to slide that front part in? Btw the engine is running the webber dual throat carbie, with the rectangle sports filter with the chrome housing. Anyone know where I can get a replacement element. Everywhere I look I can only find the complete unit, no replacement elements.

Thanks for your reply. Do you know if it would require any cutting and shutting on the down pipe to accomidate the 2cm difference? Btw any tips on getting the front piece in. I am assuming sliding it in from the rear is the way to go, but I have been having a hell of a time trying to get it in.

Hi, I hope I have posted this in the right place. I recently bought a 4x4 1986 nissan navara with a reco Z22 fitted. It had a terrible set of bent up extractors, with a partial system attatched full of holes. I picked up a complete system, manifold to tail pipe from wreckers. Of course this came off a Z24. Will this exhaust fit with the Z22 in it? You might be wondering why I havnt just put it in to check. Well the exhaust came it 2 parts. I tried for about an hour today to get the front piece in but failed terribly. Anyone know the best way to get this front piece in? I am guessing dropping the front drive shaft out might help, any thoughts?