kugelbake

SOLD!

Runs & Drives. New brake shoes & drums all the way around. New wheel bearings. New tires. Nice dash. Fuel tank recently removed, electronically cleaned and chemically sealed. Very little rust; this was a Georgia truck. L-16 engine with Weber carburetor & single-point distributor. Automatic transmission. Comes with a bed full of spare parts including a 5-speed transmission. Clear Florida title. Located in Oklahoma City. Photos on request. kugelbake1@gmail.com

Yeah, I wish the picture sharing was easy. I can't figure it out for the life of me.

Runs & Drives. New brake shoes & drums all the way around. New wheel bearings. New tires. Nice dash. Fuel tank recently removed, electronically cleaned and chemically sealed. Very little rust; this was a Georgia truck. L-16 engine with Weber carburetor & single-point distributor. Automatic transmission. Comes with a bed full of spare parts including a 5-speed transmission. Clear Florida title. Located in Oklahoma City. If I don't respond to your PM, try me at kugelbake1 AT gmail DOT com.

I have an L16 engine of uncertain condition. It does turn freely. There are several bolts broken off in the block, but the cam cover and head seem to be in good shape. All the spark plug holes are good. Rebuild this one while you keep driving the old one. Comes with a 5-speed trans for an L16. I'll trow in a number of other P620 parts.

Rebuildable 1600cc motor with a 5-speed transmission. Also have an extra starter, air cleaner, and a few odds and ends. No shipping. I'm in Newalla, about 30 miles east of Oklahoma City.

Pull-A-Part in OKC now has a 310 and a 210. Both have a ton of good parts on them.

No. The 32/36 bolt pattern is wider and deeper. And the bore centers on the Weber are considerably wider than the Hitachi. So you'll need an adapter. I converted to the Weber due to the cost of a new Hitachi: $435.00. I bought a new-old-stock Weber (made for a Pinto) for $60.00. I made my own adapter from a scrap of 1/2" aluminum plate, a 1" hole-saw, a router with a carbide bit, and an 8mm heli-coil set.

That set-up looks nasty to me. There should be two SU side-draft carbs on that manifold instead of the dual Webers on those adapters. The thing won't run very well unless you're turning the motor at about 10,000 rpm. And it will be a nightmare keeping the Webers synchronized.

I agree. But try finding some in a junk yard. It's tough. The Datsun ones are unique. You could probably take a couple off a Ford or Chevy, carefully pry off the tabs, and re-weld them in the right places. But what a pain in the butt. If you find a different supply, please share it with us!

Headlight retainers: http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-pl620-truck-parts.html

Yes. I am near OK City. I am looking for such a yard myself. As you probably know, about 5 or 6 years ago the local EPA office went around to the salvage yards with a list of regulations they intended to begin enforcing. A lot of the smaller yards that dealt with older cars and trucks just folded and closed rather than go broke trying to comply. Another unintended result of high-minded legislation. By trying to clean up the environment, the EPA has radically reduced the number of operating salvage yards. That means fewer recycled parts and a net increase in pollution as new parts (or even whole new cars) must be manufactured to make up the difference. Sad. Pull-A-Part in OKC had a 520 a couple of weeks ago, but it was pretty well picked over when I saw it. I did get a couple of headlamp rings off it before they crushed it. They keep the older cars in the far northwest corner of the lot. There are usually a couple of 720 pickups in the "Import" section in the Northeast section of the yard. I have yet to see a 620 or a 521. Man, if there is nothing in the Chickasha area, I'm not sure we'll find anything in this area.

Bonzai, I'm not too sure it matters where it was made. Mine is a DFV made by Holley in the United States. The jetting certainly does matter. Do you have anything productive to add? I'm trying to figure out if there is any rime or reason to the emulsion tube numbering system as that seems to be where my problems lie ~ around the 1/4 throttle point. Thanks, Fred

Glen, Any luck on determining what emulsion tubes to use? I'm trying to put a Weber DFV on my '73 L16. It is waay too rich off idle and I don't know what way to go on the emulsion tubes. The ones I have now just say "15" and "16" on them. I have been looking for some "F-11" tubes as was suggested in DQ, but like you can not find any. Fred