bromigo

ITS ALIVE!! ..... more to come

youve probably gathered that the cab is back and on the chassis all painted and ready to go and summer has been and gone in nz so.....BIG UPDATE ...... i have decided to change my rb30 build and im looking at making a decent power n/a engine for this car for when its finally finished. im going to go with an rb25 head on the rb30 block which is a very common upgrade in nz and basically adds between 20-30kw. the exact setup will remain secret for now but 150++rwkw would be a nice start. this is some thing ive wanted to do for quite some time and ill be doing most of the work myself but for now to get it all going i thought id have a bit of fun with a $50 rb20e since my carby setup will fit it :P i acquired an rb20e and swapped all of my rb30 stuff onto it, this is what i did: 280* cam 14lb flywheel 40mm gfav carb headers (installing and modifing after initial startup and test) lightweight and under driven waterpump/alternator pulleys i machined the front pully for about 5 different reasons none of which were for performance gains. i ported it with head on so more like a big match port. i opened it a futher 4-5mm diameter with about a 10mm ramp, and cleaned the casting to the valve guide and gave it a light sand to make it look nice (yes i was carefull and clean about it) i also filled the injector cavities on the head with epoxy so i dont have a low pressure spot just befor the valve and to help everything flow a bit better. ill be starting this up tomorrow so wish me luck :D ive also been busy on a few other areas: drive shaft: i used a front half of an r32 manual driveshaft and swapped out the center bearing for the 620 bearing. bolted in. heater: i found an electric heater panel on ebay to replace my standard heater radiator for that instant hot air (and i didnt trust the pipes that originally came into the cab.) costs $20 for the element and i just have to make a baffle to hold it in place. this will slide directly into where the original heater core sits. brakes: brake booster from an early 80's toyota with a skyline master in now in the engine bay. front brakes still need to be done but i have a plan ..... r31 front hubs/disks and calipers with some modificaion to the bearing housing to make it all fit nicely. cooling: pipes are in, and the radiator is tied in place with rope. it just needs to be done properly now and connected in place and inside a box then ill make a deck. interior: door cards are in. all leaks have been sealed, dash is in, more to come..... wiring: got quite a few extra things to add to the original loom but this will start tomorrow. (electric waterpump, stereo, engine, alarm, alternator, engine, guages etc etc) tuning: im looking at utilising the original knock sensor into a warning light and headphone jack for tuning purposes, also a wideband o2 sensor for fuel ratio when jetting the carb. ill post some pics soon

friend found the original grille badge the other day!! never thought id see this :p

new paint/rubbers ... re-assembly has begun .... currently acquiring/awaiting/buying parts

im in hamilton ... pm me ill see what i can do its still a bit of a shambles at the moment and in pieces

due to lack of funds things have been goin slowly so i thought i should update my progress: -i had to make a change to the engine mounts befor i take of the cab this should be done this week. -the cab comes off next week to be paneled and painted matt black. -i have a davies electronic water pump now for the rear of the ute to keep water flowing to the radiator on the deck when its all up to temp. im waiting for summer to get here so i can paint the chassi and install everything back in it properly. my only concern now is where to put a fuel tank as it sits too far forward and fouls on the water pipes. i cant put it on the left hand side cause its not certable and im now thinking about putting it above the spare wheel or shortning the original tank.

i was goin to recommend checking the coil resistance and the vacuum advance pot on the dizzy. ive personally had too many problems with them on other models of vehicle and i see this all the time a a problem on older cars my advice to you..... invest in a vacuum gauge. the use of a vacuum gauge is more important that most other testing equipment it can tell you almost everything that is wrong with an engine and you can even do timing with it! it also would have found your tight valve ;)

How thick is that bracket? I think im gonna have make my own :(

Ahh very nice! Looks like the way to go.... Is the beebani mount 1 piece or is it welded? Only reason why i ask is cause i have to get them crack tested for cert reasons unless they are made from 1 piece of metal

Bit of an update: The engine mounts are done, The gearbox mount is done, Plumbing for the radiator is in. Im currently working on the driveshaft and rebuilding the engine while ive got the resources and time. (found bigend bearings in the sump when i modified it) But right now ive got 1 big problem and thats with the brakes. My master is stuffed, my slack adjusters are seized up and im also gonna have to put a brake booster on it for a cert so for this reason its time to upgrade!! Im wanting to know the combos people are using for there disk brake setups? Or commom replacements? Disk/caliper/master and booster.....

here's a link to some mounts on our local trading site --> http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/holden/engines/auction-638007720.htm you could probably fold a base plates to fit the your mounts just like the ones in the link (I'm assuming yours bolt up in a simillar way?) the hardcore 4x4 boys know there stuff when it comes to the gearboxes. I've heard of a lot of different combos when I was looking for a column shift setup to fit my rb30 and for me its as simple as changing the bellhousing aslong as its a 71c gearbox. this is the same for you and some will share the same bolt pattern as an rb so potentially you could build a very strong drivetrain

super cool! some Nissan patrols (y60 gq patrol) in nz/aus came out with rb30 carbed engines and very nice big 4x4 manual gearboxs. they were manufactured from 87 up untill the mid 90s and In rebadged ford mavericks. holden vl commodors run 308 v8s this model also came out with rb30e engines and bolt to the same style of engine mount as the v8. holden as a company have a very long history of using chevy engines in there cars so I wouldn't be too suprised if it would be an easy bolt over swap. if you could get your hands on the mounts you'd be onto something and could slap in any old rb engine but unfortunatly that model of commodore is pretty much only available in nz and aus so let me know if you would like to try it they are dime a dozen over here. you may only need to replicate bottom plates to match the chevy mount to the rb20/25/26/30 rubber mount (which wouldn't be hard at all!!) let me know if you need any info on mounts I have a few laying around at the moment good luck with it, its been my dream to rb25/26det an old patrol

and here we go these are a few pics just after i did the swap at this stage the sump isn't done so it has changed a bit but you should get the general idea so close ...... theres still a crank pulley to go on there too ....... but yeah hows that for a tight fit!!!

i suppose i should have a bit of a rant about her so here we go.............. this is the old girl in her former glory about 2 months after I pulled it out of a barn. I gave it a quick water blast and drive it home with half the exhaust missing and no lights at night :P its done 72000 original miles 10000 of which were done since 1996 --> http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=gm4585 i paid $500 nz for It and drove it for 6 months everyday to work and beyond. then it got cold and she didn't like starting in the morning so i put it in the shed and bought a hilux ute. (worst thing i ever did was buy that damn hilux) I also know the last 4 owners and saved it from being destroyed as a paddock hack

yes please! any of how its fitted in? (mounts engine bay ect)