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Bamadawg
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About Bamadawg
- Birthday 02/27/1963
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6 bills for that stroker motor isn't a bad deal at all. If it is from the '70s - I bet it was done with quality stuff and by people that really knew how to make cars go fast - if that's what you want is a high revver. Jus gotta remember that it will def need 93 Oct or higher to run daily. Would also need all the other go-fast parts to get the most out of it... high spark, intake/carb set-up, header/exhaust, correct tranny/diff set-up. He has all the other stuff to make a killer track car - bet its all quality stuff too - if you got the pocketbook for it. If it were me wanting a fresh longblock... I would get a used longblock from the scrap and have the bottom end done locally at a machine shop and send the head off to a known Dat performance shop for a redo, then have it mated to the bottom end. I bet if you look/ask around - you could find someone that knows Dat motors - esp if you have dirt tracks around that run mini-cars. If its anything like around here, you can find a part time builder/shade tree type guy that has tons of experience with foreign motors. Jus a suggestion. Nate
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Thanks Slick for the offer of help... I am a bit more familiar with things now that I have done some research. I din't think about the weight of those steel wheels... American Racing has another line that would fit - I think its part of their Vintage Series called Ansen Sprint wheels. I have a buddy that owns a body/paint shop - I could get him to paint the knock-outs black to give a bit of contrast like the Mag 500 wheels I like. Cheers... Nate
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Thanks for all the help guys... I think for now Im gonna go the steel wheel route for economy... I think these should look decent... Was thinkin of putting the Ralleys on back and the Smoothies up front - jus to be a lil different :) Nate
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Like I said... I am not the expert when it comes to wheels... Not that I want to keep them narrow - I jus dont want to purchase something from Ebay (which I use alot, cause I only have 1 place I could purchase wheels from, w/o driving 60 miles) - and then find they are too wide and be stuck with them. Now that I know I should be OK with 6"-7" width - I can safely look for those. Maybe some 14x6 up front and 15x7 in back - at least I have a better idea of what to look for. Nate
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Yea - I had thought of that option with the 15's. I noticed some 5.5" wheels on Ebay for Chevy trucks... jus don't wanna so too wide. Wouldn't mind some 15's in back and 14's in front if I can find that setup also. Im wading through lots on Ebay - maybe can come up with something. Nate
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OK - with my limited ability I think the specs should be 14"x5" with a 6x5.5" lug spacing. I can get some 6-to-5 adapters for $130/pr. The 5.5" lug spacing seems to be the killer for most American made wheels, or even old-school wheels as most are 4", 4.5" or 5" spacing. Will keep researching. Oh... the wheels I like are called Magnum 500 wheels from Ford... I have a eye on a set of old-school 14x6 Keystones - if i can snag those for close to the bid of $30 + shipping for all 4 - I may invest in those adapters. Nate
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Kinda like these Keystones: http://www.cragarwheel.com/images/products/32.jpg
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Guys... Wanted to ask what specs to look for in aftermarket wheels for my '82 720. I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to the whole wheel and offset specs. Also... Are there any decent factory mags that would bolt onto the '82 - the 6-lug pattern - or do most 6-lugers get one of those 6-to5 lug adapters so that we have more wheel options? I really like old-school type mags - esp those that some Fords had with chrome fat spokes and with the balcked out centers - trying to find a pic of those - cant rem what models Ford used them on. Nate
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http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=dope+as+hell Peace Out... Nate
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The trans axle code is: HE38 with FS5W71B manual tranny.
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Also... How fair a price is $325 shipped to my door for a factory new casting Z24 head for '84-'86 with a 3 year warranty and no core charge? I figured I would pay $60ish for a pulled used head + blasting, parts and assembly. I would prob still get a port kit and port a new head a bit. Would still haveta track down a intake and cover - but wouldnt have to worry about anything else. Nate
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Mike... which carb would you use on a 720 with mild performance tweaks... the 38 DGES or 32/36 DGEV? From reading, the 38 gives a bit more throttle response but gives up some MPG over the 32/36. Nate
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From Alabama... War Eagle tho :) No smog testing done here - tho I wish there was, like in Georgia - get some of these horrible clonkers off the roads. Mike... itsa raining today from the tropical storm, so I will snap a pic ASAP. Thats what I was thinking... maybe someone added the pump at some point and time, but the factory fuel lines look like they were setup to run to the mechanical - not sure where the elect pump woulda been mounted at tho. It is a manual 5-spd. My lil tag is in my desk at the office - I will swing by there later and take a look at it - I took it off the truck so I could have it handy for ordering parts, etc. Thanks Nate
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Thats the reason I asked Mike... cause my '82 def has a mechanical fuel pump - not electric? Nate
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Yes... I know all about the LZ engines - that was my original intentions, but at the moment I jus want some bolt-on - weekend warrior type mods that will make the truck act more like a truck - if that makes sense. Like I explained before - the power really falls off bad if/when I drive it up hilly highways, which we have around here. I would jus buy a port/polish kit and do some mild work to the head - nothing HP, jus to improve it - so that dosen't seem to me to be throwing money at it. It has the OEM exhaust on it, so that gotta be replaced anyways... will splurge a lil and get a resonator and decent SS muffler. Spent bout $70 for those 2 B/W coils - so I am not going crazy with the expenses. Figured I should be able to get a head and diff if I can find them for round $200ish. My friend owns a NAPA store, so I get parts from him at jobber prices - that helps alot. Gonna do some shocks and new tires and brake refresh all around, cause shes losing BF now and again. I have a L20 head in the wings, and I am keeping my eyes open for a Z20S block so that I can eventually do that LZ motor when I get my 16 y/o off to college in the next cple years. Nate