Hillbillybuddha

I ended up going the beveled side inward. Is the oil slinger suppose to be loose between the two key ways?

Another question; I wish I had taken note of the position of the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump drive gear but I didn't... Each of these fears are concaved on one side. Do the flat or concaved side face the engine? I'm guessing flat towards flat surfaces but a more knowledgeable opinion would be great.

So here's what I've done. I think this will work but I'd really like a second opinion before I start putting things back together. Bottom end; I don't think is that big of a deal. I think that the piston is either up or down so I just have to make sure that the first piston is at the top of it's stroke. Right? Top End: I reinstalled the cam sprocket bolt and turned the cam until the intake valve has opened and closed but the exhaust has not yet opened. The intake cam lobe is at 5 o'clock and the exhaust cam lobe is at 7 o'clock. The "2" in the center of the gear is pointing up at 12 o'clock and the "2" on the outer rim of the gear is around 2 or 2:30. I should be able to just put it back together now? Does this seem right? I should mention that the cam locating pin is in the sprocket hole marked "2"

And if I didn't mark the chain to sprocket location? I didn't bother because I'm pretty sure it wasn't installed right the last time (PO did it and couldn't get it to time correctly- I couldn't get it to time correctly either) Side note:Datzenmike, wish I could buy you a 12 pack for all the help.

Before I pulled the head, I got it to TDC but with all the trouble I had with removing the 27mm crank bolt, the 1st piston is no longer at TDC. The heads were pressure tested by the machine shop and are no longer set to TDC either. How do I go about installing the head? How do I set TDC with the head removed? Thanks

Anyone know where to get new dowels for the heads? I seem to have misplaced one.

The first thing I did was use my impact; didn't budge. Then I tried the breaker bar and a big rubber mallet,still nothing. Tried that trick with the breaker bar and turning over the motor, couldn't believe it but still didn't budge. Finally took 190# of me hanging from 5 ft of cheater bar. Granted, I didn't try laying on the ground and kicking but at that point I'm just glad you guys were around with suggestions and I would have tried that kicking method had I thought of it. Regardless, I'm sure I'll have other questions soon enough.

Yeah, my normal cheater bar is a 2 ft long piece of lead pipe. That's usually enough. Not this time, took another 3 ft of Jack handle. That was one stubborn bolt.

Tried the thing with turning over the motor. Didn't work. Finally put my shop jack handle (3ft) over my cheater bar (2ft) over my breaker bar (22 inches) for probably 5 ft of leverage. Still took me hanging from it but it broke free. I have to get to work now but I might have time to finish pulling it apart tomorrow before work. If not, it'll be Monday.

Ha. Of course. I was thinking of the breaker bar spinning when I should have been thinking of the bar as stationary and the bolt spinning.

Is the crankshaft bolt reverse thread? If I start the truck with the breakerbar, won't it tighten the bolt? Or have I been tightening the boule bolt this whole time :/

Yesterday was so nice my girl decided we needed to spend some time at the river, as usual, she was right. But that means I didn't get a chance to pull the timing cover yesterday but just got to it today. And, as anticipated, I'm back with a question. I've tried a quick Google without results, so, How do you get that 27mm crankshaft bolt off? My impact wrench isn't budging it. Thanks.

Yeah, you guys are always great. I don't get to come to this forum very often because I'm usually tooling on my old TBird or my Plymouth Scamp but when I've got a question about my lady's 720 this is the first place go too. Truth is my girl (IvyRacer on here) is doing most of the work herself and I'm just there to make sure she doesn't mess it up to bad and brake a nut loose when I need too. And offer guidance but I needed guidance myself with the timing chain, but I guess that was mostly because I came in with a misconception about the oil pump and dizzy. Thanks again.

Awesome suggestion. I'll make sure to do that. I'm sure I'll have some questions come Monday when I finally get a chance to get into it.

The head is still off, I'll be removing the timing chain cover on my next day off. I'll pick up a new timing chain while I'm at it. To get the timing chain cover off, does the radiator come out first to make room or will I have enough room as it sits? And thanks for clearing up the dizzy / oil pump thing. I was under the impression that in order to set the timing chain, you had to get the oil pump set to fit the dizzy at 1 on TDC. Or some such thing