Bambam91

Fusible links? Where are they located :p I don't see them. I pulled and reseated every plug I could find. Didn't solve the alternator issue. The ute hasn't kept running since last night. I've found that if I bring the ute above 4000rpm the alternator jumps to 15vdc and sits around there even at idle. Until I turn it off and start it again where it'll sit at around 13vdc.

so i installed a new alternator today, started the ute up, checked the battery voltage, 13.5vdc. high revs got to 15vdc and no higher. here i am thinking ive finally sorted it. go for a drive with lights, stereo, aircon, anything and everything electrical turned on. ute runs perfect yet still has the batterty light on. pull up to the house feeling pretty chuffed with myself, turn the ignition off, and the ute keeps idling. i flick the ignition on and off, this does nothing. just keeps idling. after about a minute of it idling, it finally turns off. i start it again, it starts first time with no problems. idles nicely. turn ignition off, and the ute turns off. very strange. now when i check the battery voltage it sits at 13vdc. no higher. high revs it sits 13vdc. on idle with lights on it sits at around 12.7vdc.

is it possible to wire in an external voltage regulator? would that work?

Yes I am aware of that. But I'm assuming the voltage regulator that is built into the alternator is stuffed?

the issue has returned. i took some measurements again, they are as follows: Engine Running: 17.7vdc Engine Running - High Beams: 14.20vdc Engine Running (high revs): 18.3vdc Engine Running (high revs) - High Beams: 17.0vdc+ im assuming the voltage regulator is the cause?

Yes that was with all lamps and two spottys as well. It all looks normal to me. Well see if the issue pops up again. Cheers anyway.

today the issue seemed to disappear. ute ran perfectly. took some measurements today anyway. Voltages all take from the battery terminals. Taken in the following order: Engine Off: 13.04vdc Engine Off - High Beams: 12.20vdc and dropping Turned High Beams Off Engine Running: 14.20vdc Engine Running - High Beams: 13.70vdc dropping to 12.40vdc Engine Running (high revs) - High Beams: 12.56vdc Engine Running High Beams Turned off: charging up to 14.20vdc and then stable. As i said the ute ran fine today, and also did not display a flashing battery light. If the issue happens again i will take some readings.

Hi all I'm having some issues with my 720 ute. Whilst driving, the battery light flashes and the engine coughs, splutters and on occasion backfires. Unless I have the high beams on. Then the engine runs perfectly. My head unit will also stop playing music unless I turn the high beams on. I'm assuming this would be a voltage regulation issue? If so, is there any way to test the voltage regulator? I'm assuming the voltage regulator is inbuilt with the z24 alternator? Cheers, Mat

So a replacement z24 would be the go then Thanks for your input guys

as above. can it be done? has anyone done it before? i have a 1985 nissan datsun 720 4x4 and my z24 sounds like the big end bearing is on the way out. theres a z18et listed on gumtree.com.au for $300 - http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/woodville-west/engine-engine-parts-transmission/nissan-z18et-complete-motor/1020702069 includes: - engine and all accesories - ecu & loom - inlet manifold - exhaust manifiold - throttle body im from australia by the way hence the aussie website :P cheers, Mat

found that i now have a pin hole in the radiator.. new one on the way though :)

just an update for anyone whos interested. ive used the 240mm flywheel with new clutch kit. the new gearbox and ive used the original t/o bearing collar from the 225mm flywheel combo. what i did to remedy the problem was i packed 3 washers on the pivot point. problem solved. thanks for all your help guys.

the T/O bearing collar i have is from the 225mm flywheel. i used that with the 240mm flywheel and i could not get the clutch to disengage. the 240mm T/O bearing collar is shorter than the 225mm one. so if anything, my problem should be that i could not get the clutch to engage. but if fact it is the opposite.

any ideas why that clutch wouldnt work?

right, well i finally got around to having another go at the ute. i removed the motor again and changed the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate etc. back to the original 220mm. new gearbox with the old petrol bellhousing stayed in. dropped the motor back in, bolted everything up, started her up, everything works a treat. clutch works fine, gear shifts are fine, drives fine. so the problem had to be something to do with the pressure plate or the slave cylinder not being strong enough maybe? im not really sure. heres a link to the clutch kit i used: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160591117048?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 maybe thats the wrong one? i have the z24 engine/flywheel with the 240mm friction surface, so i figured thatd be the one to use