bigblockgq

IMI gear reduction starter, awesome

Very very true, been there done that, 241 does have a nice ring to it though, lol Any eddy current dyno is the real deal for numbers

209rwhp at 10.5:1 air fuel. I will go back with the correct jets and hope to see 220 + rwhp at 13.2:1

I would have to check for the exact spec on the cam, I can tell you it does not like to idle well, luuumpy ! The engine is race built top to bottom to make power not just head work, although the head has seen a lot of input from valves, valve train machine work, lots of porting.. It does breath well from carbs to header. The power band is very linear and very wide, peak hp is made around 6800. I have the rev limiter set to 7600 rpm at the track, I have to stretch a couple gears, sounds pretty sweet around there I must say..... I was actually trying to find a polyurethane engine mounts to help with idle lump, the engine just jumps around with the stock rubber new mounts. I was unable to find anything.. anyone ? anyone ? bueller bueller.....

Not a ton. I have been busy elsewhere for most of the winter and will get back to it in the spring hopefully. I did however dyno the car last fall and was happy to see it make some reasonable power. It dynoed at 209 rear wheel with a very wide power band. This with an AFR that was way off and we had problems trying to get it leaner. AFR was around 10.5:1. The problem I think was the jets I had bought did not seem to be correct. The jets that were in place when I got the Carbs appeared to be 160 mains which were way rich according to my AFR gauge. I purchased an assortment of main jets to move lean, I started with a 155 and the AFR went from 10:2 to 15:0 and climbing in WOT.. shut down! Back to the drawing board. So the conclusion after some deliberation, the mains have been drilled! I hate when stuff like that happens, scratching your head, wtf. I have purchased 165, 170, 175 so on, now I can get a handle on it. I was thinking when it was on the dyno there is no way a 155 main will support that hp, and it didn't. We decided to re-install the rich unknown main size and make a couple pulls to get a base line rich. I also attended a track day in the fall which was great to find all the stuff that does not work on the car! lol I found out how manual brakes work for threshold braking! ouch, they need to be pushed real hard! Going to change compound (wilwood). Any input here would be great. Also found out my starter does not like heat. My car lovesss to be push started! "hey guys I'm going out how about a push..." got old fast, lol. I since have had a high torque gear reduction starter built by IMI. Awesome stuff, I have a very small odyssey battery so all is good, spins it over with no effort. Lots of stuff came loose, it's amazing what the track will tell you in a couple hot laps. I would like to get more tire under the car is one of the big quests I'll be on for phase two.

It was not a push rod problem for me, that was one of the first things I looked at. I ended up putting a piece of brake line between the reservoir's to fix it, they now stay at the same level. I know this is a slightly dated thread, but have you figured this out? I was searching for some other brake related info and stumbled upon this. The current M/C on my 510 does this, its not stock, I bought it this way. I thought just replacing it would fix it, I'm thinking I might be wrong now. How could too long or short of throw or push bar damage the M/C?

Does anyone recognize this tach? not sure what its from but I have tried to get it working. It moves but is way way off actual RPM. I wired it as follows? Red wire to white = 12v yellow wire to yellow = tach signal black wire to black = ground

I have an adjustable wildwood poportioning valve, it has a brake pressure warning switch built in for a failure ( see picture) It is internally isolated front to rear hydrolic circuits but that is the only thing that I have not replaced to correct the problem. I'm thinking that the switch for pressure indifference valve that would trigger the light for failure may be leaking internally. I'm going to call wilwood tomorrow and run it by them.

propotioning valve is mainly for track use for optimum balance ( fuel load) compound so on- I use track compound pads, more agressive.

The 7/8 master I'm using : 72-73 240z 74 260z 75-78 280z

I like that idea! I had a thought of running a piece of brake line between two new holes front and rear and my friend jb weld. The current reservoirs I have are clamped on the outer machined edge of the m/c. The reservoir you are suggesting looks like it is a internal press fit? will it work ?

I've had the same problem with two 7/8 master cylinders know. What happens is the fluid from the rear master cylinder reservoir works it way into the front reservoir and overflows, It is a slow process. At first I checked the wilwood proportioning valve I installed and then double checked the line positions in and out. The p/v is clearly marked FI RI FO FO RO then I checked with wilwood's site and it states that the front and rear channels are completely isolated in the p/v. Everything looked good so I took the master apart and found nothing visually wrong, wtf. I bought a new 7/8 m/c installed and bleed and I'm back to the same concern the rear brake reservoir (front container) bleeds into the front brake reservoir (rear container) the brakes feel ok no pulling or anything strange, all look like they are wearing normal. I tracked the car for a day like this and just kept refilling the rear reservoir and wrapped rags around the front reservoir. The pushrod adjustment is good its not holding the m/c piston in or anything strange. I really cant see it being two new m/c ? The only other possibility I can come up with at this point is that the proportioning valve has an internal connection. Anyone seen this problem ? The picture below the front (rear brake) reservoir is below half and the rear (front brake) reservoir is filled to the top and seeping out.

Oil cooler install - Earl's cooler Earl's sandwich plate oil thermostat 180 deg nice billet piece