SALE PENDING!
Hey all, I know I'm new here but I'm a known, trusted guy to local and regional Nissan, drifting, and Subaru forums! I'm looking to sell this to whomever will enjoy it, safely. I'm only looking to sell, as I have my eyes set on another vehicle here!
Here's the nitty gritty:
It's a '90 240SX hatch, located in Albany, NY; it was hit in the right rear at some point in its life, and poorly re-skinned, but it is only cosmetic damage as I did align it and both the left and right rears are comparable. ALSO, someone did a super stellar primer job on the car that's, well, just stellar. Included with the stellar prime job was a sweet 6 point cage install, it's structurally sound, but it could have been installed much more properly.
POWERTRAIN
S13 Redtop SR20DET - Great compression, has a little chain noise at first startup (get the updated chain tensioner to fix it, if it bothers you)
Oil changed every 1,000 miles with Rotella T6 (5W-40) & Purolator Pureone Gold filter
Does not consume oil/coolant/small children.
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
ACT Heavy Duty Street clutch
Stainless Clutch Line
ISIS V1 Exhaust manifold
Healthy stock T25 (run at 14psi, no issues)
Circuit Sports BMC heatshield
SS Autochrome FMIC Piping
eBay (?) FMIC core
GENUINE GReddy Type RS
APEX'i Super Suction intake kit
Circuit Sports cast turbine outlet
Megan downpipe
Skunk2 cat-back exhaust
S14 Koyo radiator (larger core; needs proper mounting)
Nismo Radiator Cap (genuine)
Taurus SHO fans, wired to a switch (Properly relayed, VERY easy to install a controller but I haven't needed to use them much.)
AEM TruBoost
Peak Performance stainless rocker arm stoppers ("RAS")
Silvia VLSD, 5 bolt axle goodness
Vision C/F Coilpack cover
At the time of the swap, new iridium NGK plugs were installed, the block was thoroughly flushed of coolant and engine oil. New thermostat was installed as well as valve cover gasket and grommets at time of RAS install.
SUSPENSION
Tein HA coils - fronts are leaking. Might as well call them blown, they still do work. Rears are in excellent shape!
Carbing Front strut tower brace WITH MASTER CYLINDER BRACE! (I will not sell this separate.)
Tein rear strut tower brace
Stock brakes
Stock steering
Aluminum Steering collar
Wheel options:
Pimp stock alloys
18 X 9 +13 VarrsToen ES 2.2.1 (Matte Bronze finish; add $1000 to asking price, these are 4-lug 18's!)
17 X 9 +15 SQUARE G6 (Add $500 to asking price, these have no more than 300 miles on them)
17 X 7 +34 / 17 X 8 +36 AME Circulars (Add $500 to asking price, straight from the land of the rising sun)
**All wheels will include tires, usable for drift spares at the very least.**
INTERIOR
Personal 330MM wheel
9K Racing spline quick release (Sparco copy)
BOSS Hub
9K Racing Bubble Knob (can install stock knob if requested)
AEM Oil Pressure gauge
APEX'i Turbo Timer (genuine)
6 point S&W cage
Pioneer Premier deck
Alpine Type S 5x8 2-ways
S14 driver seat
S13 passenger seat
G-Force 5pt Harnesses (One expires this year and the other expires end of 2012, if we make it that far :ninja)
Optima Redtop battery (relocated behind passenger)
EXTERIOR
Silvia front end
Dual projectors - no-name ballasts, Morimoto 6000K conversion bulbs (surprisingly decent cutoff); working fogs
Properly wired side markers, headlight harnesses, etc...
Driver's side fog cap is broken, enjoying the ride from inside the headlight housing.
Driver's inner headlight bracket is cracked, but still very functional
Bondo on the front of the hood, no clue what lies underneath.
No rot on front end panels.
I'm sure that I am forgetting some parts, if I do, I will be sure to edit my post.
ISSUES
Needs an IACV - electronic idle bump is faulty, so it's disconnected. I can provide a known good one to you.
Transmission likes to spit fluid out of breather (KA transmission with an SR bellhousing). Does not go too low on fluid, just always dripping, like some people.
Oil leak @ cylinder head and front cover. Again, nothing serious but it annoys the hell out of me, because its a leak... :no:
Rear passenger quarter panel needs to be re-skinned for proper repair. I have one if need be...
One bolt at the snout of the differential will not tighten up, the nut in the subframe is stripped. It'd be easy enough to replace the nut inside, but it's not a necessity at this power level.
The moment you've been waiting for: $3,800 OBO [+ wheel choice], help me get into a classic (and a fellow Ratsun member move to the next step in life!)
Call or text
PM
EMAIL: denali172[at]yahoo.com