Datsui

Hey guys thanks for the tips! I've heard that easy-outs are easy to break off in the hole? Would a left handed drill bit, which is harder be a better idea for someone with no experience? Both bolts are sheared so I'm tempted to just take it to a machinist and have it bored out and do the single long bolt...

Hey guys, wondering if you have any recommendations on where to find an Alt. Mount for a B210 (A15) '79? The pin has sheared off inside so there doesn't appear to be any way of getting it out... any body have the same experience?

Just solved a similar issue on my A14, partially blown fuse, causing the choke to stay on and the solenoid kick off every so often.

Hey guys, thanks for all the insights. I spent a whole lotta time bashing my knuckles on this one and it turns out it was a partially blown fuse! The 10amp "engine" fuse to be exact. It would work sometimes (like at high rpm, I'm guessing more volts to bridge the gap?) but fail at idle. So long story short (bad pun) it looks like some road brine got up and shorted a cracked wire to the engine. So now it's 1) check fuses 2) check vacuum 3) search internet 4) post on Ratsun :)

Hey guys, thanks for the advice. I soaked the carb (Hitachi '81) down in cleaner and let it sit for 20 mins. Everything seems to be working on it, except when idling the primary is wet with gas and it's definitely burning rich. The choke seems to work fine, it's never fully vertical at idle and when I do flip it open the car dies. I also noticed an oil leak around the #3 spark plug. I pulled the plug once before a long drive (nice brownish/grey) and after (black and fouled). Could they somehow be related? I also checked my vacuum and it's a steady 16, so there aren't any new leaks :D

This winter I replaced the carb and fuel pump and managed to plug all the vaccuum leaks, getting the engine down to a almost silent 600rpm (about) at idle. She stayed like that for maybe three weeks of light use and now is back up to a high racing (2500+ rpm) at idle. The only thing I did was change the oil (Mr Lube, from the barrel oil) and got a new air filter during those three weeks. I've tried adjusting the idle mixture screw and is seems to do nothing and the throttle screw is completely backed off with slack in the cable at idle. Any ideas what I should look for next?? Ds

thanks for the help! I just got it installed :D except now it's got a bit of a stutter, or surging sound. Any idea what might be causing it? the carb is brand-new, just out of the bag<_<

The carb just arrived, and it has at least 7 extra connections compared to my old one. Anyone have a guide on how to hook/block these extra connectors up?

Mine's already had the emission delete, so it should be good to go? Awesome! Anything to look out for when installing the new one?

From what I've read the weber seems to be overkill, lessing mileage and only really good for 5K+ rpms? Do you have any idea if the carb mount on the 1980's 210 was different from earlier A-series engines?

My carb just bit the dust, a pre-fire sent the primary venturi up into the choke flap and jammed it shut. After a long tow home and some very frozen fingers I got the carb off and reseated the venturi. Now the carb is dumping fuel into the engine and fouling the sparkplugs with just 10 minutes of idling. I'm guessing the idle adjusting screw was also damaged since turning it does nothing to affect idling. Ok so now for my question. I'm assuming I need a new carb and since this is my daily driver I'm thinking of another hitachi (webers sound great but I'm not doing much racing in my four door wagon :). Oem-surplus.com has a newer (1980+) hitachi carb for $125 (#16010-H8760) and my Sunny B310 is a 1979 A14, would this be a direct bolt on or should I expect some problems?

So you're saying ordering from Rockford is a bad idea? Is there an extra cost to having the staked ones installed vs replaceable?

I found a mechanic who can do it, but I need to order the new u-joint... any idea what I should look for as far as replaceable/grease-able u-joints?

I need the front right black rubber bumper-ette for a 210 1979 (wagon) to pass inspection... any one got a spare?

Thanks for the info! I'm not sure if the wagon (1979 B310 MT) has pressed and staked or replaceable... I took a look at it earlier and with all the mud it's hard to tell... is there an easy way to find out which one it is?? I'm hoping I don't have to replace the driveshaft since all the Datsuns around here were crushed years ago.