Emptytank

Hi all, I have been working on installing a SR20DET into a '68 Roadster, my question here is that I am going to mount the turbo on top. This is going to make the low pressure oil return be on top and the high pressure oil on the bottom. I see a lot of these done this way, what does it take to lubricate these correctly? Is there some kit, or a writeup somewhere to reference? Thanks, Mick

Great! glad it just a glitch, I'll be e-mailing you about a mount kit and Jiggy rental. Mick

Are these guys still in business? I tried their website and it has been down for days, and the phone number only has a very generic answering machine message. Kind of a bummer as i'm just starting an SR20 conversion in a 68 roadster and they have information and parts I need. Mick

My SR20 S14 DET, the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. ? Or one from some other application? Thanks in advance. Mick

Thanks again to all who responded. Lonestar. that was exactly the info I was lookiing for, I made a bracket, bolted it to those two bosses and it was the perfect place to hook to, the balance was near perfect!. My engine is now bolted to my engine stand and ready for some work on my cracked upper oil pan :( (anybody have a spare?)

It does look like mine was removed, but the good thing is now I know where to bolt on on and get to work on this. Thanks for all the responses Mick

I recently purchased an SR20DET to swap into my Roadster. It arrived banded to a pallet and I want to put it on my engine stand, but I don't really know where to hook up the lift chains. On the side the intake is on is easy, the steel mount is right there, but the other side has some threaded bosses but I dont want to cause any damage to it. Not sure on this side I figured the same place the band is would be a good 'grab' spot Thanks in advance for suggestions Mick

OK time for some updates....... I was able to do some cleaning up, and sell some old Chevy parts to buy an SR20 DET S14 for my Roadster, It arrived on Thursday and I got it to my shop on Saturday. Here is the eye candy... It came with the complete wiring harness and ECU....... Now I have to figure out where all of this goes, what I don't need, and how it works :huh: Got the 5 speed also This engine has a Turbo upgrade also... it is a Greddy T517Z, i'm not really sure what all that means except more HP? Well that is my update, I'm sure I will have a $#!tload of question as I install and wire this into the car...... More later

Time for an update. Well since i was starting to get burned out with the frame and suspension, I decided to turn my attention to other things to break up the monotony, when you have something drug in from a field, almost every piece needs some sort of attention, so this week was the seats. These were a little weathered but not ripped or seperated at the seams, but the foam was a little flat and the webbing was stretched beyond use. A little tear down shows this Cannot reuse these, so a $20.00 roll of generic seat belt webbing, an hour or so on my friends sewing machine and i have fresh webbing Now that old flattened foam needs some attention, looking at it reminded me that when I redid my Corvette interior I saved the old seat foam from that, a trip up in the attic and drug these down. Real close to the datsun, except for that flat, tired part, a little sculpting with a razor and ready to reassemble. Now the vynal has some serious weathering, and is now actually grey instead of black A little acetone made them a little better, but after that i just tried some Mguires polish and it made a night and day difference! The seat bottom on the left is the finished product, frame cleaned and painted, new webbing, the old Corvette seat foam and the acetone/ polish finish Now I have to reassemble the remaining parts and the seats are ready for when the rest of the car is

I have been watching this thread, I too am about to purchase an SR20 to go into the Roadster i'm 'restro-modding' It's a good thing too because I was really considering the Tiger importers in Canada, but when I called them to get shipping information, I couldn't understand the guy on the phone. Not that it was a deal breaker, just confusing, and from what i'm reading here maybe it's a sign. Can you tell me more about Zerolift? Oh and sorry about hijacking this thread, but it's exactly the information I have been looking for. Mick

I see now, this is the way these are supposed to go.

I think I know what your talking about, I thought that looked weird. That must be a cheap way to raise the rear when the leafs get a little flattened out, because I have seen other Roadsters with them set up like that. PS. Please ,be a dick if you see anything else that is wrong, this is my first Datsun, and the reason I joined is for the experience and knowledge you guys have. Until more progress :cool:

It's the original 283, I just rebuilt it .030 over bore, hardened exhaust seats, ect. nothing special except adding disc brakes, rebuilt the front end, and installed air conditioning. I did freshen up the interior while I was at it, and added factory gauges in the dash. And you can see by the fuel gauge, why I go by 'Emptytank'

How are they supposed to go? I never took them off of the rear end housing, so they must have been wrong for a very long time. Here it is before I took it apart I'm all ears?????

Hi again. In my last post I was looking into converting the front brakes to use the Volvo calipers, and after researching the cost of rebuilding the stock roadster brakes I went ahead and did the conversion. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, just some details that had to be done prior to installing, I had a machine shop turn the rotors to reduce the diameter by1/4 ", Then I had to drill the caliper mounting holes out to 1/2" , and use various size washers to shim them into the correct position/ centered to the rotor. Other that that it is a real nice conversion / upgrade. So instead of using these. I now have this.....