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Found a Nissan vannete for under 500$!


motavated

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Should I buy it? For real man! That thing is awesome! it has a cooler and sunroof and ac everywhere and the wants to junk it! I'm like how much did the junk yard offer you? He said 200 dollars. Man I will give you that I told him. But then he raised the price. Is it worth it? Are they still being recalled and such? Supposedly Nissan will replace some defective hoses for free back in 1991. Will they still do it now? If I cant buy it, is any one interested in this rare machine?

 

This is how they look.

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Edited by Motavated
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KA24E motor RWD so likely L4N71B auto. $200 if all I 'd pay for the drive line. Fuck his raising the price, offer $175 now.

 

The vans were designed for a much smaller motor but because North Americans are such gas guzzling whores and like BIG motors the KA was wedged into it with resultant overheating problems. Nice motor for a project though.

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He lifted his hood "drivers set" and its actual a Z series engine fuel injected. Its also leaking water from some were and it kind of stumbles when you put it in drive. Body is very clean @ almost 200,000 miles... I wonder is Nissan can fix that water leak with that hose they made especially for it?

Edited by Motavated
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Nissan bought back most of those vans after the recalls, that's one of the reasons you don't see many of them. Cool yes, hard to find parts for? YES. I would stick far away from it unless you're going to treat it like a classic Datsun worthy of modifying/restoring, which will probably take massive amounts of money, like any Datsun moneypit. Otherwise it's going to be a $200 paperweight.

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He lifted his hood "drivers set" and its actual a Z series engine fuel injected. Its also leaking water from some were and it kind of stumbles when you put it in drive. Body is very clean @ almost 200,000 miles... I wonder is Nissan can fix that water leak with that hose they made especially for it?

 

You sure??? I assumed that the KA24E was in them. I guess a Z24i would fit the description. If you go back see if it has 8 or 4 wires on the dizzy. ??????

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Yeah man, It had the Z on the valve cover. Not the 2400 thing.... Yeah probably right about parts.

 

But rebuilding a z series engine is not that hard. The thing is taking that engine out of the van!!! The all these f'n wires and hoses everywhere....

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Look at me and mikes post time, never saw that happen before.

 

HRH makes a good point but I mean how hard are parts for 610's, 210's or NL320's? Idk 1st hand but I thought very hard. Innovation, luck and contacts.....but ya costly I imagine as said.

 

What z motor is in there? Is it stock? I though they used ka's too.

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I'd say a 320 is probably still easier to get parts for than one of those vans. Imagine if you need a door, or window glass. Yeah, not going to happen. There are most likely less of those vehicles than 90% of old Datsuns in the U.S.

 

And did I mention napsz motors are worthless. Best to take the efi off that and use on an L, maybe save the block, particularly if it's a z22. But the z head is another paperweight suitable for using only when absolutely necessary. Like the Z motor in my 720.

 

(Hey Mike, when the 720 goes tits up or gets a better motor, I'll send you the Z20 head. :D)

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I'd say a 320 is probably still easier to get parts for than one of those vans. Imagine if you need a door, or window glass. Yeah, not going to happen. There are most likely less of those vehicles than 90% of old Datsuns in the U.S.

 

And did I mention napsz motors are worthless. Best to take the efi off that and use on an L, maybe save the block, particularly if it's a z22. But the z head is another paperweight suitable for using only when absolutely necessary. Like the Z motor in my 720.

 

(Hey Mike, when the 720 goes tits up or gets a better motor, I'll send you the Z20 head. :D)

 

I'm not arguing how hard really just saying it's kind of relative. Shit, where I live a 320, that van or an apollo rocket, same odds of finding parts. Once shipping is involved then basically its fair game.

 

I can't agree napz motors are worthless or even bad for that matter. I would take one over (what I consider) the bullshit L series 4 cylinders. To each their own, just wouldn't say it so definitively.

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OMG whaaaattttt?!!!!! L series 2 valve heads still flow as well as most modern heads, have lightweight reliable valvetrain, easy to port and polish, the bottom ends are bulletproof, internals good to about 200 hp for stock, then you'll need better pistons and rods, but damn, what a good motor!

 

LONG LIVE THE L!!!:D But tell you what, I'll trade you any NAPS-Z motors I have for the Ls you want to get rid of.

 

Really we're splitting hairs on the heads as the blocks are basically identical save some casting and oil port differences. Not including the Z24 of course, with it's odd deck height and crank.

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OMG whaaaattttt?!!!!! L series 2 valve heads still flow as well as most modern heads, have lightweight reliable valvetrain, easy to port and polish, the bottom ends are bulletproof, internals good to about 200 hp for stock, then you'll need better pistons and rods, but damn, what a good motor!

 

LONG LIVE THE L!!!:D But tell you what, I'll trade you any NAPS-Z motors I have for the Ls you want to get rid of.

 

Really we're splitting hairs on the heads as the blocks are basically identical save some casting and oil port differences. Not including the Z24 of course, with it's odd deck height and crank.

 

Well hey to each their own lol. I deal with 6's so no I4s to trade, if I ever do get a dime or a 610 or a 620rwd it will be a napz in it WAY before a 4 cylinder L series though that's for sure.

 

I'd also love to see a real chart showing the heads flowing as good "as most" modern engines. The guy over at hbz who made a 6 cyl L series dohc out of sectioning ka24de heads tested it in comp to a p90 and n42 ported, the p90 flows better then any other L series . ka24de flows twice as much and I wouldn't call it THAT modern. The ka24e even flows better. The z series actually flows worse (with some work it can flow well) but can't go saying L flows as good as most modern engines.

 

Idk how easy I'd say they are to port either they have sloppy castings and the apex on the intake runner is sharp as hell, with a coolant galley under it.

 

From the dynod ones I see actually running 200hp a good deal of work is required so you could really say that about a lot of motors, including the z series.

 

I take the I6 L series because there is nothing readily available theat easily replaces it but for the I4 series I just think there are way better options, one being the z series.

Edited by 72240z
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I farted around porting a W-58 closed chamber once and found the intake well formed and tilting down and turning slightly to the valve. The short turn radius was minimal and only a small longitudinal casting flash to remove. It's redily aparent why they breathe well compared to a NAPS.

 

Note how far above the deck the intake port is on the L head below. The air has a gentle down slope to the valve with minimal bend at the valve.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/motorU-67openleft.jpg[/img]"]motorU-67openleft.jpg

 

Note how the NAPS intake is about an inch above the deck traveling horizontal with a sudden bend to the valve.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/00770025.jpg[/img]"]00770025.jpg

 

Can't compare to a three valve KA head though, it's some where between the L and Z head but closer to the Z for height above the deck, I think. It has the advantage of a wide flatter port and two intake valves which slows the air speed, allowing it to make a turn with less turbulence than the NAPS.

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Ya The napz is def no prize pig in the porting dpt. It's flow though or lack there of isn't just or in large (although def in part part) due to that short radius intake port. The valves are tiny and they still almost contact one another due to the valve over lap. The ports are tiny as well. Everything about that head stock is chokesville. That said though its common knowledge the L series doesn't respond well to porting, best you can do is clean it up a bit. Where as the napz responds very well to porting. Even Frank Honsowetz mentions that. Granted that's partly because the L flows better out of the box and the z doesn't but the topic was porting comparison so lol.

 

I was originally just saying I liked the napz better, then just disproving some untrue claims about the L series. Fact is though the napz has more problems stock and the L series will always be able to make more power out of the box. The way I see it though most of the napz problems can be sorted out and when they are its a superior motor.

 

Widen and straiten the ports as much as possible, cut and install modified l28 valves. Maybe weld up some of the bowl for better quench etc... you end up with a really lovely head all things considered. Its cross flow, it's got good swirl, better displacement, entire short block is very stout, going to handle the same if not more power and abuse then the L, just as reliable, just as light, better mpg, better emissions etc.....

 

The L series has its bonuses, again stock it does the job just fine and better then the z, It has WAY stronger after market support, way more development too. If someone wasn't going to bust their ass on their motor I could understand leaving it. But if your going to build it or heavily mod it, the z all the way imo :-). Idk why I typed all this either, agreeing to disagree is fine with me lol.

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The valves aren't tiny. I've had Z20/22 and 24 valves out and they are all the same size. I compared an L20B valve to the Z valve and they are the same diameter. The L valve fit the Z head, BUT... the Z valve stem is slightly longer than the L.

 

Other than these points I totally agree with you about the NAPS.

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The valves aren't tiny. I've had Z20/22 and 24 valves out and they are all the same size. I compared an L20B valve to the Z valve and they are the same diameter. The L valve fit the Z head, BUT... the Z valve stem is slightly longer than the L.

 

Other than these points I totally agree with you about the NAPS.

 

 

I checked on that and your right, for the intake. The exhaust is actually larger. L20B is 42mm intake and 35mm exhaust. The z is 42mm intake 38mm exhaust. Me being wrong on that actually bolsters the case for the motor lol. With the right port the motor is just flat out better imo.

 

Mike have you ever toyed with porting on a z head? I'm curious to know how high that ceiling and how low that apex can go before a jacket is hit and needs to be welded lol. I also wonder if one could port right through everything and sleeve it, easy way to go.

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I don't know about L heads not responding well to porting. The amount of material I removed from my stock U67 head made a huge difference. I suppose maybe the potential is less, but only because the head was made with flow in mind, whereas the NAPSZ head was made with anti-pollution efficiency in mind. Kind of like the steel liners in the later L heads, meant to restrict flow and heat up the charge so it burned more completely.

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Note how the NAPS intake is about an inch above the deck traveling horizontal with a sudden bend to the valve.

 

One small difference is the NAPS-Z valves are set at quite a bit more angle than the L-series valves, which are near vertical. So the NAPS doesn't need as much bend in the ports.

 

At low-RPM, the NAPS-Z makes a bit better torque, but at the cost of high-RPM horsepower. Unless you get really fancy with variable valves and such it's always a tradeoff.

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