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LZ22 Build


DatDoug

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I want to build a bad-ass motor for my Datsun. No Icehouse I dont want to put a SR in it:fu::D I hear good things about this LZ22 settup.

 

This is what I know. I need a Z22 block. I know it comes in the 81 720.

 

I need a L head which I have. A87 or W58??

 

Now what? Like all Ratsuners I want to get some performance out of it. I'm not expecting much. I will be running a weber 38 downdraft with ported mani.

and 2-1/4" exhaust.

 

What kind of pistons?

Which head gasket?

What other Dattos does a Z22 come in?

Will Lseries dist. work?

 

Any and all help appreciated:D

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Z22S were in the '81-'83.3 720 and the Z22E in the 07 '81 to 09 '83 200sx. The truck Z22 S motor and Z22 E motors made till 12 '81 used a shorter 145.9mm L20B rod and a 9.32cc piston dish. All Z22 E motors built from 01 '82 on used a much longer 149.5mm rod and different piston.... possibly a smaller dish. I mention this because a longer rod motor.is usually rev happy compared to a shorter one. Also putting an L head on a Z22 will always result is a much higher compression than the L20B, so knowing piston dish is critical.

 

What head? Depends on if your header is square or round port. If round use the W-58, square use the U-67 although the A-87 can be used, the intake port is smaller than the U-67 and you said you have a ported intake. Go with the U-67. If you use the W-58 I would remove the exhaust liners while you have the valves out.

 

Yes the L dizzy will work because you are installing an L20B timing cover on the front of the Z22 block.

 

The stock Z22 gasket with a few holes punched in it to match the L20B water passages. Trim the very front around the timing chain off the Z22 gasket and graft and L gasket on. Don't worry it doesn't seal in anything but fumes and oil spray.

 

 

Here's a dyno sheet from Byron's LZ22. It shows 138 RWHP with cam and EFI. The EFI only gave a 6? hp increase from the previous years multi carb output of around 132 RWHP. This gives a good idea of what the LZ is capable of. BTW the bottom end is stock I believe so PRMs were kept down to only 6,500. This is RWHP so 150??? more?? at crank.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/DynoRun2007ByronsLZ22.jpg[/img]"]DynoRun2007ByronsLZ22.jpg

Edited by datzenmike
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I was talking to a guy here in spokane who has built a couple of these along with LZ 24s. He said that it would be wise to match up the oil ports from the L head to the brass oil port between 2 and 3 cylinders also as there is a slight difference.

Hes got a Lz24 with efi made from an N42 z intake and 200 SX stuff... Pretty damn cool.

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lotsa details on the realm and def check out jason gray's research on frankenstein motors.

This is what I know. I need a Z22 block.

 

I need a L head which I have. A87 or W58??

 

I'm not expecting much. I will be running a weber 38 downdraft with ported mani.

 

What kind of pistons?

Which head gasket?

 

Will Lseries dist. work?

 

Any and all help appreciated:D

 

different carb... or you wont be getting much.

 

slapping a CC head on the stock bottom may cause a CR thats not steetable.

 

except for the nismo HG, they are all gonna need some modding, as will the block.

 

L20b cover = L-series e-dizzy

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I've got this setup in my car right now - I have the Z22E block from a 1982 200sx, and the A87 (open) with a big cam from a built up L18 that I picked up a while back.

 

DatDoug - there are a lot of options between blocks, pistons, rods, and cranks... so if you look at that Jason Gray link that was posted above, you can get an idea of what swaps in with what, based on the sizes of everything.

 

Before you start collecting parts and building, you should try to get an idea of what you *want* out of an engine. Starting with a goal like "fast" may be too vague -- you want to think about things in terms of engine characteristics, and where in the power band you want to apply the available power in your engine.

 

Do you prefer engines with power down in the lower RPMS (quick launch off the line, but runs out of breath as RPMS go high), or power in the higher RPMS (slower off the line, but really picks up as the RPMS increase, good for freeway racing), or something in between?

 

Personally, I prefer a mid to mid-high RPM power range. I've found that having an engine with a slightly over-square bore/stroke ratio is where I like it, and I built my engine to that specification. Basically, I wanted an engine that revved like an L18, but with more power.

 

Again - before you start hunting and assembling, figure out what you want, and then do research to see if what you want can be found with stock L-/Z- parts (most inexpensive way to go).

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I think the biggest questions are what head gasket do you want to use. If you're using standard bore Z22 pistons (unlikely unless you found a really low mileage block) you might use the L20b head gasket.

 

However, that gasket is tight for the extra width of Z22 + .050 pistons, in which case the Z22 gasket would be a better choice, but you will need to snip the front timing cover section off, assuming you're using the L timing cover, not the Z. That's one of the few things I disliked about the combo, but it works just fine to rtv the top of the timing cover. Use a lot and trim off the excess with a razor knife. Helps to have a little shop vac while you're doing it to catch all the silicone shards.

 

The other thing is yes, chamfer out the oil passage in the head to meet the bronze oil port in the block. Don't need much, just about an 1/8" difference. A dremel tool with a pointy abrasive wheel would do just fine. Or a regular metal cutting head.

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I have 87mm L series head gaskets from Baz in Australia

Made in Japan graphite

Prices vary as How I am treated!!!!!!!!!

 

stock the gasket will be very close to the bore edge line on L18/20 bores otherwise get the 88.5mm compitition gasket(M-(11044-A7651). as the 87mm is NLA

They were on sale at one time.

http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=m-11044-a7651

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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