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What did you do to your truck today?


Madness

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Hey Inked,

 

I see that you are takin her down to bare metal. I went the same route, then I had a chance to work at a body shop over the summer and relized I didn't prime it right. So I'll share a little info with ya. When I first started to rework the body of my truck some crazy guy told me to use self-etching primer. I tried it and I though this is crap! I discontinued using it, I'm kickin my own ass now. This primer gives the "high-build"primer something to hold on to plus the etching primer reduces swelling. So do yourself a favor and put two med coats of Veri-prime on it the two - three good coats of build prime. After it's all done wet sand it with 400 grit and put some sealer on it. I just used the h-build primer now I have rust coming through. Primer is pouros and will hold moistier. That sealer will help protect all the body work you have done and keep it rust free until your ready to spray some color on it.

 

Have fun with those door jambs, I feel your pain!

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i will be towing it home as my mom backed into it and left. front bumper is f'ed, core support pushed back, and the fan is now touching the rad, and the alt fan is once again touching my lower rad hose. time for a cab swap. thank god i got one and a good core support to weld on.

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Hey Inked,

 

I see that you are takin her down to bare metal. I went the same route, then I had a chance to work at a body shop over the summer and relized I didn't prime it right. So I'll share a little info with ya. When I first started to rework the body of my truck some crazy guy told me to use self-etching primer. I tried it and I though this is crap! I discontinued using it, I'm kickin my own ass now. This primer gives the "high-build"primer something to hold on to plus the etching primer reduces swelling. So do yourself a favor and put two med coats of Veri-prime on it the two - three good coats of build prime. After it's all done wet sand it with 400 grit and put some sealer on it. I just used the h-build primer now I have rust coming through. Primer is pouros and will hold moistier. That sealer will help protect all the body work you have done and keep it rust free until your ready to spray some color on it.

 

Have fun with those door jambs, I feel your pain!

 

Hey, thanx for the info. I would take your advice but I'm going a different route with painting it. Yes!, those door jambs suck. i almost have the passenger side done and I'm dreading having to do the other side. So, what did I do today, I sanded down the roof and finished off the passenger front fender. On to the drivers side tomorrow. im gonna start a build thread pretty soon. need to download a bunch of pics i have so far. Again thanx for the advice!!

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So a buddy of mine has an 87 porsche 944. He's been tuning on it for a couple of months, and today he decided to get his feeling hurt. He had it dyno'd. I went with him;)...... and had my lil 521 straped down and reved to the moon!:D I'll admit I was a L-I-T-T-L-E nervous.:confused: I was waiting for something to fly off. Fortunatly nothing did except a little coolant.:o My buddy down loaded the info on his USB drive, an we had a little problem keeping it in 4th gear. Over all I'm putting down somewhere in the neighborhood of 165 and 180hp @ the wheels.:D You could see the gear changes in the chart. It always wanted to dwnshift into 2nd or 3rd, man that lil monster really screams! :cool: I'm workin on a video, as soon as I get it all together I'll post it up. It also registered a mph of 152!!!! Yeah it'll never see that kind of torture, but it's nice to know it'll do it.

 

Yeah today was truth or dare for the 2jz 521, or would that be truth AND dare?

 

It rained in TN as well, sucked gettin down there and back but it was worth it.

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Took the pistons and crank off the L20b I am going to use. Next stop machine shop.

Disconnected all trans and motor mounts, electrical, driveshaft, etc on the Z20 to get - it - out!!!

pulled off the big ass dock bumper.

 

Finally got to work on it

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First time in her since last autumn! Wouldn't start. It usually is the simple things! Tightened down the battery terminals and positive on fusebox, put on the first new spark wires it has had in prolly 12 years. And we were good to go! Drove down to the local abandoned catholic school with a camera!

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?p=144827#post144827

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Hey Inked,

 

I see that you are takin her down to bare metal. I went the same route, then I had a chance to work at a body shop over the summer and relized I didn't prime it right. So I'll share a little info with ya. When I first started to rework the body of my truck some crazy guy told me to use self-etching primer. I tried it and I though this is crap! I discontinued using it, I'm kickin my own ass now. This primer gives the "high-build"primer something to hold on to plus the etching primer reduces swelling. So do yourself a favor and put two med coats of Veri-prime on it the two - three good coats of build prime. After it's all done wet sand it with 400 grit and put some sealer on it. I just used the h-build primer now I have rust coming through. Primer is pouros and will hold moistier. That sealer will help protect all the body work you have done and keep it rust free until your ready to spray some color on it.

 

Have fun with those door jambs, I feel your pain!

 

 

Do not use self etching primer i repeat do not use self etch use epoxy primer ..........dp by ppg or transtar dupont prime and seal...............self etch requires a primer before you use high build urethane.....self etch will cause delamination if you go straight over it. no matter what brand , name brand or aftermarket. slef etch is a waste it requires a very strict procedure after it. plus epoxy is so much friendlier to use with the filler over it or other primers. 20 years oin the business tell me so. Im only 32 so thats a long time of spraying and selling. not trying to big time just trying to save money and time.......

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