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Charlie69's 66 520 Build


Charlie69

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Thank you wayno for the pictures & in put on the wiring & details of mounting. After King cabbing your 520 did you move teh seat mounting farther back?

 

Good stuff Charlie. Your attention to detail is stellar. The Art of Patience :cool:

Thank you DATKAOS. I did not realize when you get old you do get slow! LOL The detail is what makes a vehicle personalized. I am cursed with perfectionosm and waste a lot of time & money trying to achieve "perfect".

 

glad to hear youre not only going to be driving it but driving it to a job!!!! its getting there charlie, its looking great. Dont give up on it now!

I plan on this being a daily driver. No more emission testing for me. I am trying to get it on the road by the end of the month. That is when My Saturn registration is due and I do not want to put any more money in it. It is crusher bound as soon as I get the 520 on the road.

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Looking good,tilt wheel will be a nice feature for shure,I set my steering up to fit me good,but one of my "larger" buddies tried to drive it the other day and couldn't even sqeeze inbetween the wheel,I think I might add one of those fat man steering wheels,those things are pretty neat

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Hey Charlie, I trashed the bench seat, it did not belong in the 521, I think it was a later 620 bench seat. I put bucket seats in the 521 KC project, and yes I put them quite a bit back from stock, the front mount holes on the seats are 4 to 5 inches back from stock front mount holes. If I slide the seat back, it is way to far back, mission accomplished. I have not yet changed the 520 seat out yet, and it is not as bad as that 521 bench was, but it's a KC, and should have buckets for access to the rear area. wayno

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Seats look good Wayno, what are they out of?

 

Spent today patching and stripping out useless wires from my wiring harness. Checking continuity in each wire as I go. I have found several color discrepencies in my harness and what the 1980 FSM shows and I am making notes of all changes and discrepencies. I think about 2 more days and I should have the wiring done. My brother has not cut out 2 plates I need to finish the steering column & transmission mount. I am pushing out pulling the cab until next week. By then I should have the steering column, wiring, & brake lines done.

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I figured since I made this for Charlie's 69, I might as well post the pics here :) Charlie got in touch with me about needing an extension to make his power brake setup work. He sent me a drawing....this is what I came up with. Charlie....let me know if you see something wrong with it in the pics before I send it to you :)

 

The bolt and the female part have about a .001" interference fit....it took some pressure to push them together. It will never be pulled on, so I couldn't see any reason to tack weld it....but I will if you want me to. :) I realized after I uploaded the pics, that the flat spots may be on the wrong end to actually use....oh well...that's what vise-grips are for!! :)

 

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It looks great Mike but I think it might be too long.

 

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Mike I will give it a try the measurement between the end of the clevis pin bracket & the end of the push rod in the drawing was taken without the brakelight switch in place. When I install the brake light switch it sortens that gap. The space between the between the back edge of the brake pedal lever & the clevis pin bracket will only allow about 3/8" of rod protruding through before it binds against the back edge of the brake pedal lever.

 

If it is to long I can always shorten it. I trust your measurements more than mine in this situation as you have made sevaral brake push rods over the years & probably know more about what will fit & what will not.

 

Wow Mike that was fast. I am glad you did not make it as complicated as my drawing. I was thinking of tie rod mechanics when I drew it, hence the left & right hand threads.

 

Thank you Mike.

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Wayno yes it extends the existing shaft that comes out of the 310 brake booster. From what the Factory Service Manual (FSM) shows the rod is loaded into the booster in the first stages of assembly. This means to change out this rod to a longer rod you have to completely disassemble the booster. This way I can order a new/rebuilt booster & screw Mikes Master Piece Rod Extension in adjust & go or stop if you will.

 

Mike is great fabricator & I know now that he enjoys the easy (short in time) jobs also.

 

Thanks again Mike.

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I made it with a bit extra thread so you can use a cut off wheel and shorten it a bit if you have to. The center part with no thread is only 1". I just didn't want it to be too short and not have enough thread engagement. I think 1/4" is barely enough. The extension is 3-3/4" and your drawing called for 2-3/4" with a 1/4" on each end, making it 3-1/4"......so I'm only a 1/2" longer than your design. An extra 1/8" can go in the clevis and the rest on the m/c rod. :) As long as that leaves enough for a lock nut, you should be good to go :)

 

You're more than welcome. It kept me off the couch last night! Yea!! :)

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Mike you nailed it on the pushrod length. It is perfect.

 

I will be back on that as soon as finish the wiring.

 

Burrito it is always fun to talk datsuns with you.

 

Well I just found out that the state of Arizona will not let the paint (orange) be shipped into the state, something to do with EPA Regulations.

 

So instead of orange I am looking at burgandy paint.

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Mike you nailed it on the pushrod length. It is perfect.

 

I will be back on that as soon as finish the wiring.

 

Burrito it is always fun to talk datsuns with you.

 

Well I just found out that the state of Arizona will not let the paint (orange) be shipped into the state, something to do with EPA Regulations.

 

So instead of orange I am looking at burgandy paint.

You have to be kidding, you can't paint your truck orange?

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I am looking for the purple with a black stripe wire!

 

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Not yet

 

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Maybe over here

 

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THERE IS NO "FREAKIN" PURPLE WIRE WITH A BLACK STRIPE!!!!! angry.gif

 

Well tomorrow in the daylight I will search the wiring on the patio.

 

Any way here is what I did to get an automatic power brake pedal in my 520 using the back part of the 620 pedal assembly bracket, the front part of the 520 pedal assembly bracket, a 620 power booster spacer, a 310 power booster, & a 280ZX master cylinder, oh almost forgot Mike Klotz's Master Piece Rod Extension (no guys it is a brake push rod extension). biggrin.gif

 

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Tomorrow more wiring. :rolleyes:

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Thank you Mike & Mark for the encouragement.

 

I must be nuts to spend this kind of time on a wiring harness!!!! LOL

 

Here is part of the reason it is taking so long to do my wiring. I am drawing a color keyed diagram as I go noting all the changes I am making to a stock 1980 Datsun 720 KC L20B Automatic 2WD wiring harness that had all the motor related wiring hacked out of it.

 

I had to mod the headlight circuit four 2 headlights instead of 4, add hi & low beam relays for the Hella HB2 headlight conversion (not necessary but did it for safety reason), add in the fuel pump circuit from a 1984 Datsun 720 KC wiring harness, Remove all uneeded wires, tailor fit to my 520 truck (relocating all the connections, shorten lengthen)as needed, replace all damaged wire (30+ year old harness), and the insrument cluster wiring mod for the 66 instrument cluster. Also add in the 1985 Datsun 720 ST 4x4 power window & door locks. I am using all Datsun/Nissan parts.

 

Here is a picture of the wiring harness that I am working on as I do the wiring. This is about 44" long x 33" high & took 25 pieces of 8.5" x 11" paper to print. After I finish it and all wiring is tested I will have a copy center print in color on poster sized paper then have them laminate it.

 

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Thank you Burrito.

 

Mark to do what I am doing it is the only way I know how to document all the changes and to have an accurate diagram to work with in the future.

 

I am actually enjoying this even though this is really time consuming.

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