LoboBlanco Posted July 30 Report Posted July 30 Well since I have been lurking in the shadows of Ratsun as a voyeur for sometime now I guess it's finally time to make a profile and be part of the crew. Been working on this baby since March. Gonna KA swap it like the "cool kids" ...why not. 6 Quote
UnderControl Posted July 30 Report Posted July 30 KA swapped 620s are cool indeed. Your's looks to be in fantastic shape. 1 Quote
datzenmike Posted July 30 Report Posted July 30 S13 engine, only made two years. Heavier than the truck KA-E. Nice looking truck. Quote
LoboBlanco Posted July 30 Author Report Posted July 30 3 hours ago, UnderControl said: KA swapped 620s are cool indeed. Your's looks to be in fantastic shape. yeah I lucked out in the rust department on this one. The battery area was really the only bad spot. Everything else is surface only. Couple pin holes in the driver floor pan but almost unnoticeable. 1 Quote
LoboBlanco Posted July 30 Author Report Posted July 30 3 hours ago, datzenmike said: S13 engine, only made two years. Heavier than the truck KA-E. Nice looking truck. I know using the this block comes along with some pains. Mainly the oil pan situation and crank girdle. But I got this engine for a song and I have faith that it’s in good condition. I cleaned up the L20b and traded it for the transmission I needed and a disassembled KA24DE that I’ll use the pan and oil pickup from for now and possibly rebuild the motor for a future project. But, I was happy to give the kid plenty of parts for his datto. He was more that appreciative and even tho I may have lost out on the deal I was happy to give him stuff for his truck he might need. 1 Quote
LoboBlanco Posted July 31 Author Report Posted July 31 Progress report. Crank girdle notched. Just need to swap the support bracket from the 240sx oil pickup to the truck oil pickup. Looks like I have a welding situation over at my house tho. I use to keep my welder at my grandfathers house back when I didn't have a garage. Since I have been at this house I just assumed the plug was the same for the dryer and I could just use that when I need to weld something.... wrong... the plugs are not in fact the same. 🙃 So now I gotta figure something out. 1 Quote
LoboBlanco Posted July 31 Author Report Posted July 31 Disregard... I just remembered that I fixed this problem years ago and made an extension box/chord where the male plug end plugs into a dryer outlet and the female box end has an outlet for the welder 😎👍 Hopefully get this girdle torqued down, pickup fabbed and installed and pan sealed this week. .... You know what.... the metal on the oil pick up is thin AF.... I might just invest on a 110-120v welder. Do any of you guys have any expertise on welding thin stuff like this or 16-18ga for car bodywork. My welding background is structural steel and thick stuff. mainly 3/16 or thicker up to 1". 1 Quote
]2eDeYe Posted August 1 Report Posted August 1 .024 wire is good for mig and thin stuff. Definitely not as forgiving as welding heavier stuff. 1 1 Quote
Rustbin Posted August 1 Report Posted August 1 I have a 110v welder and use .023 wire and can weld 22 gauge steel with it, the way to make it work is with short hot tacks, a term borrowed from a You Tuber is stack a tack. You tack weld your piece in place with tack welds about 1" apart then come back and add another tack to the edge of it and work your way around again, pausing to keep it cool and check to keep you surfaces flush, then work around till you've got it all done. It will warp and blow through if you try to lay a bead, it will also blow through if there is rust, ask how I know. 1 1 Quote
LoboBlanco Posted August 1 Author Report Posted August 1 21 minutes ago, Rustbin said: I have a 110v welder and use .023 wire and can weld 22 gauge steel with it, the way to make it work is with short hot tacks, a term borrowed from a You Tuber is stack a tack. You tack weld your piece in place with tack welds about 1" apart then come back and add another tack to the edge of it and work your way around again, pausing to keep it cool and check to keep you surfaces flush, then work around till you've got it all done. It will warp and blow through if you try to lay a bead, it will also blow through if there is rust, ask how I know. Good advice! Thanks bud. Yeah I’m used to welding thick full-pen seismic stuff. (And that was years ago tbh) But I’m excited to do something different. Especially for this sick 620. Quote
LoboBlanco Posted August 1 Author Report Posted August 1 6 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said: .024 wire is good for mig and thin stuff. Definitely not as forgiving as welding heavier stuff. well it looks like my welder does have recommended settings for 22ga and 18ga on its lowest settings so I might be in good shape. I’ll fill up on c25 tomorrow and give it a shot. 2 Quote
LoboBlanco Posted August 2 Author Report Posted August 2 Got the two oil pick-ups frankentein'ed together yesterday. Wasn't too bad. Felt good to weld again. It had been too long. I could have done without the Phoenix Az heat tho... Didn't turn out half bad for never welding with such thin wire before. I have more confidence in fixing that cut our section where the battery sits. I still need to do some surgery on the truck's oil pan baffle before I can call this task complete. 3 Quote
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