Any way to repair flexible printed circuit on combo meter?

[matrophy]

From the "it's always something" department: I was trying to figure out why my meter illumination wasn't working and I found that the flexible printed circuit on the combo meter had a broken path in that circuit. Is there any hope to repair it? I was unsuccesful searching the forum for any insight but that's probably because I don't know the common name for this thing.

 

It looks like it can be removed and replaced but I'm wary of messing with the varistor(?) that controls the fuel and temp gauge which the printed circuit-thing is attached to. I'm hoping to repair it in place somehow.

[Duncan]

They usually repair pcb's by soldering a jumper wire across the broken trace.

 

 

[SamL]

I would advise caution. I believe the trace is between two layers of some plastic material. Solder melts at around 350 degrees F. At that temperature, it will easily melt plastic.

 

Could you somehow use a strong tape to hold the plastic down? Then you could use a DMM to check continuity.

[matrophy]

I have the same concern about the chances of soldering going smoothly being iffy at best. I like the tape idea and it's worth a try but failing that,  I think the best bet is to replace the whole PCB

[Thomas Perkins]

What is the going price for one?Do they come off the cluster?

Edited May 26 by Thomas Perkins

[matrophy]

I found a 'for parts only' cluster on ebay for $100 just now. I guess I have no choice. It looks lik ethye come right off but I'm not certain 

[DwayneOxford]

3 hours ago, SamL said:

I would advise caution. I believe the trace is between two layers of some plastic material. Solder melts at around 350 degrees F. At that temperature, it will easily melt plastic.

 

Could you somehow use a strong tape to hold the plastic down? Then you could use a DMM to check continuity.

Try the soldering iron on plastic where there's nothing. Some plastic has high melt melt point.

[banzai510(hainz)]

get a pencil eraser and use FLUX  and you can put the solder on the solder iron tip and  brush across the joint or get a wire. Presolder the wire ends and use flux is the key here. this is ez.

 

If you have no flux depending on solder. ,the old kester solder has flux in them just add solder while it melts

[Thomas Perkins]

Get a paper clip,cut it to size and tape it to it.

[Thomas Perkins]

Look what I have.Bought these back in 720 World days.Also more parts and a like new harness to this.The circuit on back will come off.I took the clock out and put it my 720.I just took this picture.How much is one of these circuits worth?I may let one go.Also a temperature gauge.I may have a third one.Maybe a fuel gauge too.Got to keep a spare for me.Or trade.What cha got?

Edited May 26 by Thomas Perkins

[wayno]

I would try to find a good cluster or printed circuit first.

 

Next I would likely find two very small screws, and find/make a bridge out of some thin metal or maybe if you have another bad circuit board cut what you need out of that, I would use a very very small drill bit smaller than the screws and drill a hole centered in a good area(not been melted), then I would go straight left in that photo and drill another small hole in the center of that good area, I would then install the bridge, I would not try to tighten it tight, I would let the screw threads make the circuit, you do mot want the plastic getting in the threads of the screws, this is what I would do.

 

Besure to check what is behind the holes drilled, I am thinking they will be in open air, but I do not know this.

 

The point is I am thinking when the screw goes thru the thin material that holds the circuit board the threads of the screw should touch the circuit material/metal, but this is small thin stuff, I would need magnification and a lot of light to even attempt this.

Edited May 26 by wayno

[datzenmike]

If the gap is small clean the copper surface with light sandpaper and using soldering paste bridge across the gap with solder. Preparation is everything.