Front brakes refuse to bleed 85 4x4 kc

[ElliotV]

So this weekend when I was repacking my wheel bearings on my truck I also replaced the front hoses because the outer section was cracking off. I bled the brakes while I still had the front end in the air with the tires off and quickly got it to where the front brakes would engage since I did gravity bleed them in the process of replacing the hoses to save some effort. I went to take it for a drive after I got some stuff cleaned up and the truck back on the ground and the brakes feel like shit and only work at the bottom of the pedal or if I pump them up. Even though I only replaced the front hoses should I go through and bleed the rears and the lspv? If so should I bleed the lspv before bleeding the rear drums? Keep in mind I spent a bit of time after noticing the poor pedal trying to bleed them and I'm not getting any more air bubbles but I'm still getting a poor pedal. 

[datzenmike]

As the front and rear brakes are on separate systems and the rears were not touched, you shouldn't have to bleed the rear system or the NLSV. 

 

Have someone hold the brake on so there is pressure in the front lines. Loosen the master cylinder front brake line* slowly till brake fluid and any air is expelled. Any air that may have worked it's way back up into the master will be bled. Spilled brake fluid can be neutralized from removing paint by flushing away with a garden hose.

 

* This would be the rear line on the master, if for the front braking system

 

 

[Thomas Perkins]

I use a one man bleeder kit from Auto Zone.Air cant get back in it using it.Great for slave cylinder too.I dont use the black pieces.I just put the hose over the fittings.The little container has a magnet on it.Cant go wrong with this?Has a lifetime warranty

 

 

Edited May 18 by Thomas Perkins

[ElliotV]

I think I got some more air to bleed out of it today just by letting it gravity bleed before I left for work and when I left work. I have used this method before and gotten really good brakes out of it. I got air out both times and the pedal feels better. We have a bleeder kit at work I'll have to see if I can use tomorrow to try to get it to bleed. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble getting brakes to bleed

[Thomas Perkins]

Bleed all 4 wheels.I replaced both rear wheel  cylinders not long ago and only bled them.Didn't bleed the front.You only need to bleed the affected front wheels, though bleeding the entire system ensures optimal pedal firmness. If the front master cylinder reservoir ran dry, you must bleed all four wheels. The standard bleeding order starts at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and moves toward it.Before I started replacing my wheel cylinders.I removed the master cylinder top and put surand wrap over the master cylinder then put top on so all the fluid would not come out when I took wheel cylinders off and it worked.Just had to bleed the back tires.Not much came out when I took wheel cylinders off.

Edited May 19 by Thomas Perkins