1984 4x4 pickup failing spark from either coil

[Blue720]

10 hours ago, SamL said:

Quite the coincidence. I'm in Mukilteo also. Braven Metals is on Machias Road just before Granite Falls. They're much cheaper than P-n-P and not many 'pickers' (those that take parts to sell.) Office is next to the wheel and tire store. There are two 83's; a yellow 2wd regular cab and a blue 4wd king cab flatbed. Cost a dollar to enter. Helps to make a list of tools to bring. Grab a wheel barrow at the entrance if needed.

 

The yellow has been there longer so more parts are missing but the engine is still there. I tried getting the ignition unit out of this one but didn't have the tools.  I wish I took a picture of it.

 

The blue is missing the typical interior pieces, gauge cluster, door panels, etc. The engine is mostly untouched except the battery cables. I tried to get the carb off but failed again. Want to go away from a manual choke to an electric one.

 

 

The fun row is 34. Furthest from the entrance. That's where they keep the classic older cars. If you want to make money as a picker, that's the row to scavenge.

I went on the Braven website, and tried their interface, but it said they don't have any early 80's Nissans. I found a hardbody 86 with a V6

Edit: Looked again and found the two 1983 Datsun rigs. Thanks

Edited May 5 by Blue720
Looked again

[Blue720]

Went out to Braven today and the flatbed kingcab was missing the entire distributor, and the yellow regular cab had a 5 terminal ignition module. Not sure where to source from now.

[SamL]

Damn, someone must have taken it after I left. On a previous trip I wanted to look to see what plugs were in it but the wires were on too tight. But since you didn't take the 5 pin one, what are you looking for? How many number of pins?

 

Hope you got a few items from there, trim pieces, screws, etc. to make the trip worthwhile.

 

There are several people who partout 720s on the facebook group Datsun/Nissan 720's of Oregon.

[Blue720]

3 hours ago, SamL said:

Damn, someone must have taken it after I left. On a previous trip I wanted to look to see what plugs were in it but the wires were on too tight. But since you didn't take the 5 pin one, what are you looking for? How many number of pins?

 

Hope you got a few items from there, trim pieces, screws, etc. to make the trip worthwhile.

 

There are several people who partout 720s on the facebook group Datsun/Nissan 720's of Oregon.

I've got the 3 pin module. I'm not sure what the other PINS are even for(I suspect Tachometer), but the 5 PIN module is physically larger and won't even fit into my distributor. I was in somewhat of a hurry and didn't grab anything else. Didn't really see anything I needed. My rig is pretty much stock and has all it's parts. Might have been able to pull the coolant reservoir as mine is cracked, but it's been held together by a piece of vinyl tape for years. I suspect any 3 pin module would be the right one, but I don't have any proof of that. Wish I knew how to bench test the module I pulled from my distributor, just to verify it's the problem. My rig has all the symptoms, but my coils don't fire and they're getting 12 volts. I grounded the distributor and cleaned up all the connections...get nothing.

 

I just found a 3 pin on ebay, I guess I'll gamble the $45

Edited Wednesday at 08:23 PM by Blue720

[SamL]

Larger Above Images:

https://imgur.com/x8dclHXhttps://imgur.com/x8dclHX

https://imgur.com/EXYNLS7

https://imgur.com/Nfpzpm6

 

 

[Blue720]

10 hours ago, SamL said:

Larger Above Images:

https://imgur.com/x8dclHXhttps://imgur.com/x8dclHX

https://imgur.com/EXYNLS7

https://imgur.com/Nfpzpm6

 

 

I attempted to follow that routine while it was on the truck, and I wasn't getting the voltages I expect from I and E poles. The B pole showed 12volts. That's what initially made me think my module must be bad. However I asked in a previous post if I had to ground both coils because the routine above isn't clear about it. Now that I've got the module out of the truck and home in my garage, I was wondering how to bench test it to verify it being bad, and when I get this 'new' one from ebay it would be nice to verify it being good.  

[SamL]

Have you tried continuity tests?

Assuming the 'primary' is on the left in the distributor, do a continuity test on the red wire: from ignition coil to either "I" or "E" (Intake or Exhaust?)

The 'secondary' or white-blue (blue in the above) wire would be opposite.

 

You could also check the Black-white wire (opposite the red wire on 'primary' ignition coil) to fuse block.