1984 4x4 pickup failing spark from either coil

[Thomas Perkins]

Hitachi Series,

Inductive / Magnetic Pick-up System,

Dwell controlled by module,

Transient protection on all pins,

Mounting Location: Inside Distributor

Terminal Gender: Male,

Terminal Quantity: 4.

TRANSPO HM703;

STANDARD LX555, LX-555;

WELLS JA124;

AIRTEX / WELLS 6H1206;

MOBILETRON IG-NS005;

NISSAN 22020-D0200, 22020D0200; 22020-V5400, 22020V5400;

22020-V5401, 22020V5401; 88921540, E1951A

WAIglobal HM703, ICM555

ERA 885018

NISSAN 200SX 1982-1983

NISSAN 720 PICKUP 1983-1985

NISSAN STANZA 1985-1986

[Blue720]

3 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

Do you have the 2.4 engine.Rock Auto parts has the one like mine and it shows my part number to.But it is high dollar.If yours is like mine get the Geniune Nissan one for 169.73 or let me know what the part number to your's is and I will find you a real Genuine Nissan one.Shipping is high.Here is Rock Auto Parts like mine.They have other types too.This one is just like mine.

 

I have to drive out to my cabin again and pull the distributor apart. I'll try to get a part number from it. I took a picture last time, but it doesn't seem to have a part number on it.

Yes, 2.4, but it doesn't look like this one.

[Blue720]

Gotta question about testing voltages in the distributor. Due to having 2 coils and 2 coil wires, when the manual says to "pull the coil wire and ground it", I have interpreted that to mean pull both coil wires and ground both before checking voltages/resistance. Since I can't find where it says otherwise, that is how I interpreted it. Am I wrong. Just wondering, I know it sounds ignorant, but the manual doesn't clarify.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated

[datzenmike]

Depends what you are testing for.

 

If internal resistance or continuity, the coil should be un-wired from the harness completely. A 720 coil should be about 0.75-1.0 ohms between the + and - terminals.

 

If checking for spark, put an old spark plug in the end of the coil wire going to the distributor cap and ground the outside of the spark plug to the head or block, anything grounded. Turn the engine over with the starter and watch the spark plug for spark OR: Make a ground wire, and with the ignition on, briefly hold the ground to the - terminal of the coil. When the ground is removed the coil should spark.

[Blue720]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Depends what you are testing for.

 

If internal resistance or continuity, the coil should be un-wired from the harness completely. A 720 coil should be about 0.75-1.0 ohms between the + and - terminals.

 

If checking for spark, put an old spark plug in the end of the coil wire going to the distributor cap and ground the outside of the spark plug to the head or block, anything grounded. Turn the engine over with the starter and watch the spark plug for spark OR: Make a ground wire, and with the ignition on, briefly hold the ground to the - terminal of the coil. When the ground is removed the coil should spark.

I'm trying to test the Ignition module internal to the destributor

[datzenmike]

If the coils are working and the module has power just make sure the distributor is grounded. It should ground through the mounting bolts to the timing cover but just to be sure. Cheap and easy to do this. If it's a poor ground that test or a new module won't fix it. 

[Blue720]

6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

If the coils are working and the module has power just make sure the distributor is grounded. It should ground through the mounting bolts to the timing cover but just to be sure. Cheap and easy to do this. If it's a poor ground that test or a new module won't fix it. 

I think the distributor ground is good. the ground straps to the engine, body and frame were cleaned up as well. I'm sorta down to the module itself, at least its all I can think of. I've replaced fuses and even bypassed the whole system with jumper wires. I'm getting 12 volts to new coils and still no spark from a rig that has run for 40+yrs. Driving me nuts and I'm spending a lot of $5.50 gas running back and forth to my cabin. I need to get it running so I can get it out of the driveway so I can put my RV back in under the cover. Almost ready to tow it out of there.

[datzenmike]

Well it doesn't cost anything to confirm. The ground strap to the block may be fine but that's assuming the distributor is too. These modules are expensive to replace on an assumption. 

[Blue720]

13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Well it doesn't cost anything to confirm. The ground strap to the block may be fine but that's assuming the distributor is too. These modules are expensive to replace on an assumption. 

distributor is grounded, just not providing a ground signal back to the coil. Cleaned all the contacts in the cap, still no spark. Need to source a known working module.

[Thomas Perkins]

A lot of 720 's in Washington State.Some one can let you swap it out and see if your's works in there's and there's works in your's.If you were here, I would.Like Mike said,cost alot to buy then maybe not the problem.Is your's like mine?

 

[Blue720]

2 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

A lot of 720 's in Washington State.Some one can let you swap it out and see if your's works in there's and there's works in your's.If you were here, I would.Like Mike said,cost alot to buy then maybe not the problem.Is your's like mine?

 

mine doesn't look like the one you posted. Mine doesn't have a raised area, it's flat with exception to the connector poles.

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

A lot of 720 's in Washington State.Some one can let you swap it out and see if your's works in there's and there's works in your's.If you were here, I would.Like Mike said,cost alot to buy then maybe not the problem.Is your's like mine?

 

 Best to just swap the distributor than pull it apart. Either it will spark and start or it won't. The Z series (and others) can be removed and put back in and it does not affect the timing setting.

[Thomas Perkins]

4 hours ago, Blue720 said:

mine doesn't look like the one you posted. Mine doesn't have a raised area, it's flat with exception to the connector poles.

Your's is way cheaper in price.

[Thomas Perkins]

What size motor do you have?Looking for a ignition control module for you.Is it a California model or Federal model?2wd base model and 5-speed. Single cab.

[datzenmike]

There were 3 distinct IC modules for the Z series.

 

22020-W0560 for the '81-'82 Z22 so not that. 3 wire module

 

22020-61W00 for the '83 and up Mileage option Z20 which has a built in retard governed by a knock sensor. Probably 3 wire module

 

22020-V5400 for the '83 and up Z24. 4 wire module. There is only one module for all 5 speed/automatic, federal and California emissions and 2 or 4wd.

[Thomas Perkins]

So he has the second one.I have never seen anyone selling used one's.What would cause one to go bad?Really don'see many used distributors for sale either.These parts for sale are as is.So it is a gamble.They will post it on Ebay.When part hunters go to junk yards and remove parts.They dont know if they work.

[Thomas Perkins]

You got to be careful when buying after market one's.Rock Auto is showing 3 different types with the 4 wires.No three wire ones.The one with the hump in it is same as mine and cost a lot.Checked other sites and they are even higher.Glad I dont need one.

[Thomas Perkins]

Okay Blue 720 and Mike.You cant believe what is on Nissan parts list cause they change parts in the middle of the year.Like my 85 was made in last part of 84 but is a 85.I guess when they ate too much rice.On my 85 it says the part changed with a new part number.I found a 3 wire one for his but has the hump in it.That 3 wire is listed for mine but was changed to what is on mine with the hump and 4 wires.Also you will find some with 4 wires and no hump dirt cheap.Here is what I found with the 3 wires.Made for other Nissan cars too.This part number to this one is listed for mine till they changed the part.Dont cost much compared to mine.What he needs.

Edited May 2 by Thomas Perkins

[Thomas Perkins]

See how the part and number changed.Will confuse you and make you get the wrong one.The part number at top is for his and the bottom one that says replaced by is what is on mine.

Edited May 2 by Thomas Perkins

[Thomas Perkins]

Here is what I found on Ebay.Has the same part number with 3 prongs.Also found a part with 4 prongs that has the same part number.

[datzenmike]

13 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

Okay Blue 720 and Mike.You cant believe what is on Nissan parts list cause they change parts in the middle of the year.Like my 85 was made in last part of 84 but is a 85.I guess when they ate too much rice.On my 85 it says the part changed with a new part number.I found a 3 wire one for his but has the hump in it.That 3 wire is listed for mine but was changed to what is on mine with the hump and 4 wires.Also you will find some with 4 wires and no hump dirt cheap.Here is what I found with the 3 wires.Made for other Nissan cars too.This part number to this one is listed for mine till they changed the part.Dont cost much compared to mine.What he needs.

 

All? car makers start the new model year the summer before. Nissan switches around June. Always use the build date on the driver's door jam when ordering parts. About half of '85s are built in '84. 

[SamL]

On 5/1/2026 at 9:22 AM, Blue720 said:

mine doesn't look like the one you posted. Mine doesn't have a raised area, it's flat with exception to the connector poles.

Where in WA are you? I think Braven Metals near Granite Falls will have one. They have two 83's in their yard with engines and trans last I checked.

[Thomas Perkins]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

All? car makers start the new model year the summer before. Nissan switches around June. Always use the build date on the driver's door jam when ordering parts. About half of '85s are built in '84. 

You are so right Mike.Mine was built in Tennessee. 

[SamL]

Went to the salvage yard today and opened up a 83. The ignition module had five connections. The rotor is held in by a 1/4" thick ring which I tried opening but after 1/2 hour I was making no progress. I didn't want to mangle the rotor so I left it alone.

[datzenmike]

Never heard of 5 connections. Was it a Mileage option truck? 

 

It would have had a Z20 engine, course it would look just like a Z24. The mileage option vehicle has a high compression engine so needs a knock sensor and a form of ignition retard to reduce pinging. Ignition module may have 5 terminals, I don't know. Only came with 5 speed so if automatic it isn't.