Interference issues?? and gear oil choice??

[Fostin510]

I have a 4 speed tranny in my 510. I connected it to the L20b engine. I was doing some testing and turning the engine over by hand. I noticed a scraping noise coming from the bell housing. I disconnected the two units and noticed a couple of scrape lines on the inside of the bell housing. Not sure if it was like that before I connected the two together and spun it or if was old damage from the previous owner.

Thoughts??

Thanks

[datzenmike]

Should clear with the 200mm pressure plate. I've heard the 240mm will rub, not sure about the 225mm. I used an L20B with car 200mm clutch in my 521 with no problems.

 

What clutch do you have?

 

Do you have the engine plate between the block and the transmission on?????? If missing, that would move the transmission case about 1/8" closer to the clutch.

 

 

I would use a grinder and trim the bell housing where it 'rubbed'. 

[Fostin510]

So I'm understanding this. 200mm would be the diameter of the machined surface of the clutch plate, correct?

 

Actually I don't remember if I had the engine plate installed. (background info) I just sent the engine out for rebuild and had the tranny on the bench to replace the slave cylinder and the clutch fork dust boot and noticed the scrap marks on the bell housing, which reminded me that I heard noises when rotating the engine. As for the clutch, it's 225mm. The clutch and clutch plate are new parts I got years ago, oddly enough there's no part numbers that I've found that bring me any positive search results. So if the 225mm rubs, then I'd need to purchase a 200mm clutch kit or like you said, grind a bit off the inside.

[datzenmike]

This is the engine plate. It's sandwiched between block and transmission and best that it's there. Without it the starter engaged deeper into the flywheel and the transmission is farther forward than intended. It's about 1/8" thick. 4 and 5 speeds can be one piece, automatics are two piece so you can get at the converter bolts. A two piece can work on a standard but not the other way round. Some one piece engine plated have a hole to get at the converter bolts. There is a rubber plug to keep crap out.

 

 

This is a 200mm flywheel and takes a 200mm clutch assembly bolt pattern. A 225mm clutch will not fit it as it has a differently spaced clutch mounting bolt pattern. This one is for a L165/18, an L20B uses 6 mounting bolts to the crankshaft not 5. 

 

Look at the pressure plate for corresponding rub marks.

 

[Fostin510]

I guess my question is; Is the bolt pattern the same on both flywheels (L18 and L20b) as it relates to securing the clutch plate to the flywheel. So if I wanted to buy a 200mm clutch and clutch plate and connect it to the L20b fly wheel I could?

 

In looking at the depth of the scrapes inside the bell housing, they're about 1/16" deep and about 4 inches long.

[datzenmike]

The L16/18 200mm clutch will fit the L20B 200mm flywheel but if buying new why not get the stronger L20B one??? 

 

L16.............................. 350 Kg/ 744 lbs. clamping force.

 

 

'78-'81 A10 HL510...... 400Kg/ 882 lbs

'77-'79 S10 200sx...... 400Kg/ 882 lbs.

'80-'81 S110 200sx.... 400Kg/ 882 lbs.

'75-'77 710 ................ 450 Kg/ 992 lbs. clamping force.

[Fostin510]

True, thanks for the info. Amazing what you don't know until you ask.

[banzai510(hainz)]

dont want to add to confusion but this is a roadster replacement thats a 600KG and uses 200mm size and same 510 t/o Bearing  uses the 510 adj salve also(which I prefer) thats if you have a 200mm flywheel!!!!!!!!!!  if you have a 225 from a truck then this will not work. As I cant mind read what all the swaps have been done to vehicle in last 40yrs

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233202857988?fits=Make%3ADatsun&_skw=datsun+roadster+clutch&itmmeta=01KP427VRGCC9S1FT32FEKH500&hash=item364bf93804:g:f-4AAeSwa6ppgkVZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xALa21KHydEc9yWkfd%2BqQ0GUDfLayqZlrYUtITPjHWOv3rsHX2qY6Ib%2FGglLzLKP455P4WJbfd3soct5JLJr6PW5Bx%2BCtxiOARcXOFwAvackN3Pt9ESbq5ngYAd8ae2uh7SZB8Nk5x%2BUp2ppgJx%2FGC%2BG26X6EJ8rtT46W4YkdmHXlRvmROC7uCzSmVJTBAH2DvKTEbJ9PsuBEJF1xi4%2Bx9PCg83mp1DVayMsj%2B7ctyqH7%2BZcZzc3KVSKcUleRHyuhQooxVRM03zEi6Z83DPjP34|tkp%3ABk9SR8q8n4KxZw

 

 

why is it scraping ? thats weird never heard of that before/  when they give the size its the clutch surface area 200 225 240. the overall flywheek size is the same what I understand. Of coarse the holes bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel will be different 

Edited April 13 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

IIRC the Roadster PP is no longer available. You could try an Exedy but that would just be their idea of compatible. I don't know how other makers would compare to the Roadster one. Roadster PPs are a little over kill for a stock L20B.

[banzai510(hainz)]

14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

IRC the Roadster PP is no longer available.

Yes the nissan ones are no longer avail ( I have 2 sets at home) what I posted is the replacement that is close made by Exedy Daiken which too is now no longer made. So if people want this they better get them before these all gone as this is a reasonable price also Sold thru Roadster shops and else where like ebay.. The Nissan Roadster went ballistic in price before they were all gone. 

 

If one wants a stock clutch then just get a stock one as the Hydralics will last longer and your leg wont be sore. On my 521 I went with a weak stock Exedy Daiken clutch.

Edited April 13 by banzai510(hainz)

[Fostin510]

For now I'm going to grind a bit of material from the bell housing and see what develops.

[Fostin510]

I happened to come across an old thread talking about gear oil and which is the "best choice". After reading through it, I found a lot of people have different opinions on what to use and why. So my question is four parts. (1) what is a proper viscosity gear oil for everyday driving in So Cal and (2) can you use the same oil in a manual 4 speed and the rear diff and (3) GL4 or GL5 and (4) conventional or synthetic?

 

Thanks 🙂 

[datzenmike]

Stock transmission and differential viscosity is around 90W however GL-4 is recommended for transmissions and GL-5 for differentials. The anti scuff additive package that makes GL-5 suitable for differentials, makes it unsuitable for transmissions. You can run synthetic gear oil if you want but regular oil is more than enough protection. They say it doesn't, but when I switched to synthetic oil the old transmission and differential seals began to leak. I replaced the seals and that solved the problem. Your results may be different. I found the synthetic oil much thinner and it improved the up shift speed without any extra effort. Transmission just shifted gears faster and down shifting into first was quieter and eliminated grinding. 

[Fostin510]

outstanding, thanks.