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fabricated motor mounts


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IMG_7120.JPG.914ac5ec8382478d43e69b8be29

 

Looks like the metal engine brackets are too far to the rear stretching the rubber isolators. Slot the bolt holes horizontally and slide the brackets forward 1/2".

 

 

Nice to see someone not using those orange oil filters! 👍 

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Not enough room for 1/2” slots on the block brackets. It’s a z24 block in a 521, those are what the parts store gave me for 521 engine mounts. 

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The parts stores create alternatives to stock parts to sell something, I have never bought a 521 motor mount created by the alternative parts computer that worked properly, I made a Datsun 620 mount work once, but the engine sat higher and it was a major pain to get it in place, crow bars had to be used, what a nightmare/daymare.

 

With big enough slots in the engine motor mount bracket, close is possible, but the motor mount might not like it, in that one photo it might be a miracle that engine is still where it is supposed to be, who installed this engine?

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Engine brackets for L and Z series all bolt to the same location on the block. It can position the engine higher or lower and rotate them. They don't position the engine forward or backwards differently. 

 

The alternative is to move the engine and transmission forward 1/2". Unbolt the transmission mount  to cross member see if engine settles forward any. Then slot the transmission mount.

 

Begs the question, was the transmission mount properly modified???? If shortened too much it will pull the engine back some stretching the rubber..

 

Stock 4 speed mount...

 

pxR4eOa.jpg

 

Modified for 71B type transmission...

 

Ym1Q6Ut.jpg

 

 

 

 

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I have Stephen’s trans mount, I went through different engine mounts back when I installed the engine till I found what seemed to work between 521 and 620s as seen here in page 5. Apparently now it seems I need something better or different..https://ratsun.net/topic/83096-safe-rpm/

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Not sure if the 620 LH rubber mount will fit in there but it might be worth a try. 

You might also try like Mike suggested and loose the trans mount and see if you can pull the whole assembly fwd.

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I had to press out studs and make hole an 1/8” wider on both holes. I am still not sure if it will work like that. Worse case scenario I will weld upper section to engine brackets and bolt in lower section to stock location with engine placed where I think it should be. Since none of it is original.
 

https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/milkfab-l24-l26-l28-polyurethane-engine-mounts?srsltid=AfmBOoqWXOBJEo_i7nJ1tYjWgoWAtiNM8bLBEv7lO875H3QMxEzzhc7V

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