E350 Camper van fun - Type 2 Fun, that is.

[mtngoat]

Well, my better half took her E350 in for tie rods, and it turns out we have a broken motor mount, which has resulted in the pan rubbing on the crossmember. Yay! 

 

They want $4k to fix it, 12 hours labor plus parts. I looked through the quote and it seems that much of the cost is removing the intake manifold so they can use some bespoke ford tool to raise and hold the engine, from the topside. the intake manifold blocks how the tool sits above the engine, so it has to come out. 

 

This means the work can be done from the bottom anyway, which means no need to screw around with stuff on top of it. I'm thinking of doing itmyself and saving her a metric shit ton of $$ better spent on camping. Or anything else, for that matter. 

 

"What one man can do, another man can do" - Anthony Hopkins facing the ginormous grizzly in the Alaskan outback...with a pointed stick. (The Edge). 

 

So I'm thinking I pull the interior engine cover, have a look at the clearances. One need only raise the engine an inch or two to get clearance at the mounts for replacement, I think. Then I jack this monster up, get it securely on my oversized RV jackstands (garage sale buy, for precisely this kind of thing when she bought Moby). Then I grab a floor jack, and maybe remove the castors so it will stay put when I use it. Then I get a block of 4x4 or whatever, and gently jack up the engine from the bottom by pushing on the crank pulley. I've done this a zillion times for jobs on Datsuns, should work here, right? One interweb guy suggested a couple shims of 2x4 in a couple place between block and frame to keep it located safely. 

 

Then, I think i can get the rest done. they recommended a pan replacement due to the possibilities of leaks or crushes (pan gasket too) from the crossmember contact. As before, there must be a way to do this from below because that's how they have to do it. I'm thinking her cost would be pan (maybe or probably), gasket, and should definitely replace both engine mounts. 

 

So, assuming I can get the engine raised and safed in position, and get the pan off...is there any value in taking a look at rod bearings while I've got the pan off? 250k miles on this triton 5.4L. I'm not sure what would happen after a look, but at least I'd know if it was utterly toasted. Risks? The rod bolts are stretch bolts, right? so I'd need to replace them? 

 

thanks guys....

Edited February 26 by mtngoat

[datzenmike]

Put a suitable board on the jack and push up on the oil pan. You may bend the pulley. Check fan to shroud and radiator hose clearances as you lift. 

 

I remember The Edge. I don't think rubbing a needle with silk (or fur) will magnetize it and make a compass.

[mtngoat]

good point on fan vs shroud! keep em coming

 

 

[Stinky]

Can you get the pan off w/o raising the engine?  Or only raising it just a bit?  My guess is that you don't need a new pan....I've pounded pans out before (Pinto engines sandrail and a Honda CRV).

 

Of course Ford says that you need a pan, they have to stand behind it.

 

I'd change the rod bearings. 

 

I would not change the crank bearings.  Theoretically, it would raise the crank a micro-bit.  If there is a ridge on the cylinders...that bit that ti was raised might be enough for the rings to hit the ridge (the rings are worn, rounded on the top edge, so that they do not hit the ridge now).

 

BTW, I stay away from the stealer/dealer.  Find a good, reputable private mechanic.

[datzenmike]

Actually worn main bearings would allow the crankshaft to move up and down more than if the bearings were new. Think about it.

 

If apart anyway I would replace the mains. You can do this without taking the crankshaft out