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Advice - engine builders and vintage performance enthusiasts


donjuanit0

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Hello everyone,

I have sent requests to engine builders requesting the following:

l20b motor for a 1978 620 l20b standard cab

150-200hp to the wheels

2.4l stroker (cam and head upgrade)

Streetable with the potential of turbo or supercharger

It has a stock 5 speed

 

I heard back from one builder that it is an 8k build. I am up for that if it makes sense. I would like efi but have come up empty in that regard. Any advice? I would rather put 8k in the motor than 20k in the paint... 

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You can do 100 110hp to the ground yourself using sidedrafts

still using basic machine shop but you put together

you only have 6 post so we dont know you ability is(datsun street cred)

Unless they do lots of L motors I would not trust them. They going to REAM YOU. and you might be paying them to learn a L motor whn they are simple and you get the parts yourself. Lots of L motor parts still out there. and simple. 

 

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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$8k??? just bend over now.

 

 

All that's needed is any old Z24 engine from a 720, rebuild it and put an L20B head*, preferably a U67 but a W58 will work, and manifolds, oil pan and engine brackets on it. Maybe a header. 

 

* An open chamber head would make a 9.47 compression. A closed chamber head 10.0 compression. 

 

The Z24 engine is 2cm or 3/4" taller than an L20b so the L20B timing cover is short this amount at the top. I fitted the Z24 cover and it will pinch and seal the head gasket, barely. I added a little JB weld to the L head in the narrowest point...

 

 RN9P30h.jpg

 

The small bolt holes don't line up but it only has to seal in oil spray and fumes so a little RTV should do the trick. Use a modified Z24 HG. 

 

Being 2cm taller you'll need to add 4cm or 4 extra chain links to the timing chain.

 

liHDv8m.jpg

 

 

 

You have tons of compression so you can easily afford to grind away the valve shrouding on the head. Use the 89mm Z24 HG and scribe where the cylinder is and grind away. My intent was to make the air entering the combustion chamber change direction gradually around a bend somewhat like a reverse velocity stack.

 

fLTUVOI.jpg

 

The Z24 block does not have the matching bump out or this coolant transfer hole so again I added a little JB to reinforce it. Then Dremel a groove as shown so coolant flows up into the L head. 

 

Fwe03Ol.jpg

 

Had to punch and drill an extra hole in the Z24 block deck for coolant flow using an old L series GH for template....

 

FsE9UBh.jpg

 

A good quality rebuild of a Z24 is over $2,000 and if you have an L20B you have all the missing pieces to make an LZ24 'stroker'. By displacement alone this would make about 115 HP more because of the compression increase. The rest will be up to the cam choice.

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15 hours ago, donjuanit0 said:

Hello everyone,

I have sent requests to engine builders requesting the following:

l20b motor for a 1978 620 l20b standard cab

150-200hp to the wheels

2.4l stroker (cam and head upgrade)

Streetable with the potential of turbo or supercharger

It has a stock 5 speed

 

I heard back from one builder that it is an 8k build. I am up for that if it makes sense. I would like efi but have come up empty in that regard. Any advice? I would rather put 8k in the motor than 20k in the paint... 

For 8k why stay with the L series....

Better off With an sr20 they already make 200 plus... and they have turbo models....

 

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1 hour ago, donjuanit0 said:

Thanks @Crashtd420It was a desire to retain the original motor and I love the sound of the l20b. I think I am pivoting to a ka24de. From what I have read - 200hp isn't as far of a stretch and doesn't require as many modifications. Thanks again.

I went that route with my L16... in the end the gain wasn't as much as I expected.. I basically got the power of an l20b and it cost me around 5000...

Trust me I love the L series too but I would have been better off doing the ka or Sr to get more power... but now those motors are more money too...

Good luck which ever route you go...

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@banzai510(hainz) I haven't been on this forum for long but I have been wrenching for 30 years. I learned a great deal from tearing down and completely rebuilding a D21. I am going to start diving into the research related to doing the KA swap. Right now, I am focused on repairing my dash bezel and installing my SpeedHut gauges. I appreciate everyone on this forum. We need to keep these Datsuns on the road.

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I had another 510 back in the day the day that soembody else built.

I have to say that fucker pulled great.

I was goin home one night and a kid with a Dodge 440 Coronet was side by side.

he pulled over and sad Fuck that car can go.

It was just a L20 40mm Mikunis and a matchbox dist. cam I dont know. 5 speed

 

If you want just build a side L 20 and still drive your truck then its just a One day drop in and running.

 

you have to remember a 77 corvett 350 only had like 120hp. same as the 302 mustang 2. wasnt not alot. so 100/110 from a Datsun your REALLY GOOD

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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  • 1 month later...

Update: Contacted Rebello racing  and I can get a 150hp (flywheel) motor built with Holley EFI (Sniper) for 11.5k. I have heard great things about Rebello and it sounds good but would like some input from the community.  I feel ok about it considering that I would have to find a KA24de (probably rebuild it) and make the modifications to make it fit.

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Better yet find a later Z22 and put L20B head and manifolds on it. 2.2 liters and 9.8 compression. 

 

Even better, bore to 89 and put KA 24E pistons in it. 2.3 liter and about the same compression.

 

Both would be over 100hp easily.

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