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'70 Datsun 521 Build Farm to Street Edition


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Hey all,

    Welcome to my build thread. I just put $200 down on a $600 1971 Datsun 521. The Wisconsin plate on it says 1998. The motor is free, the glass is crack free, the doors close perfectly even with the roof damage from presumably a tree, zero through rust on the frame or truck bed. Floor pans at the crease to the firewall and the rockers have some holes. Hood is kinked. The grille was in the back of the pickup (whew!) The tail lights on the seat were a surprise to find after seeing the rears installed one smashed and the other missing. I bought new 15x8.5" wheels for it already to get it rolling onto the trailer. My plan is to get the OG motor running if it has compression otherwise KA swap it. I am planning on leaving the peeling red paint job and moss and lichen on there as long as possible 🙃 SWMPTHG plates might be ordered when titled 😁

 

Tell me what you see on this truck!!! I think the back window is aftermarket. I think the Carb is aftermaket (nikki?) I think it has a header on the exhaust manifold. The bench seat may or may not be original. The radio and glove box are missing as well at the ashtray lid. no key 🫣

Anyway, I know us goons like photos so. HERE YA GO. Also I tried for 20 mins to put photos on this thread so you didn't have to go to my google drive with the drop. If you can tell me how to get them on this thread I'll update it. 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1oGe9HMhNkflRWjw9VrEB5ge8Iv8jviiB?usp=sharing

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10 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I think the guy should have paid you to take it off his land.

 

 keep us posted

 

wires cut, no fuse box??????? I guess your good with a FLUKE multimeter.  I know 521s but this would be too much for me.

HAHA. Yeah, well he did have 3 people offer up on the tailgate for a garage decor and a couple more who said they'll pay if he got a title. I'm...more robust you might say haha. 

 

And this is why I posted every photo I could haha. I didn't notice the fuse box was cut. Will likely just pull it all and do a painless kit. I like wiring. I also have experience with classics I rebuilt entirely a 51 Chevy Fleetline (slantback), 52 pontiac chieftain hardtop, and I currently own a 54 chevy 210. So I know what i'm getting into more or less. 🤪

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Looks like a 620 steering wheel, the other one on the floor is probably from a 610?

 

Carburetor is cheap knock off and from a different Datsun. The '71 didn't have a BCDD or an idle cut solenoid. 

 

Yes fuse box is gone.

 

Fuel pump is not original but the spare tire is! Bridgstone 6:00 x 14 and 6 ply rating. If all four were original your kidneys would bleed from the rough ride.

 

111800 or maybe even 211800 miles on it. 

 

After market slider rear window.

 

Seat looks very original condition.

 

 

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Just now, datzenmike said:

Looks like a 620 steering wheel, the other one on the floor is probably from a 610?

 

Carburetor is cheap knock off and from a different Datsun. The '71 didn't have a BCDD or an idle cut solenoid. 

 

Yes fuse box is gone.

 

Fuel pump is not original but the spare tire is! Bridgstone 6:00 x 14 and 6 ply rating. If all four were original your kidneys would bleed from the rough ride.

 

111800 or maybe even 211800 miles on it. 

 

After market slider rear window.

 

Seat looks very original condition.

 

 

I knew you’d be on here eventually Mike! Thanks for the knowledge as always! Why the heck would they cut out the fuse panel?? Ughh. That’s gonna make things more interesting. 

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Side mirrors probably installed by dealer. Rear bumpers were probably installed by the import dealer to avoid the 'chicken tax' of '64.  Through a loophole, technically the truck was not complete and finished building in the US. The US installed bumpers were hideous while the original ones were...

 

4D0qLXG.jpg  

Not exactly the same the 620s were similar.

 

 

 

 

 

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46 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Side mirrors probably installed by dealer. Rear bumpers were probably installed by the import dealer to avoid the 'chicken tax' of '64.  Through a loophole, technically the truck was not complete and finished building in the US. The US installed bumpers were hideous while the original ones were...

 

4D0qLXG.jpg  

Not exactly the same the 620s were similar.

 

 

 

 

 

Thoughts on the taillights sitting on the seat. Doesn't have the orange I noticed. Year change type of deal? Or model? 

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The ones on the seat are stock all red with clear (white) reverse lamps used on the PL521 from Oct. '69.

 

The amber taillights are probably from other countries (Europe) where they are used, might even have been 3D printed. My Canadian '68 510 had amber turn signals. Couldn't find my picture...

 

Capture.JPG.6527356efe5d91369b829b53d6d7

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2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

Throw that 521 away Carl, just buy one of these be cheaper and coolervolvowagon.jpg.8aaf4402a8abcffa235a94339c35979c.jpg

That is a dope wagon. Haven't seen one available in the midwest. Problem is, what are they selling for? Wish I had more loot to drop on finished cars. Pay now or pay later type of deal for sure. $600 crusty 521 for hopes and dreams is more chewable than let’s say $7k for another seasonal car in Minnesota at the moment. Also building not buying is a must. The frame on that 521 is a lot better than the ‘96 T100 i’m driving right now so there’s hope. 
 

I have spent top dollar on my ‘54 chevy 210 so the point of this truck is to be patient with the parts acquisition and do all the work myself including rockers, glass n seals replacement, bodywork and paint. Things i wouldn't dare do for the first time to learn on my $35k chevy build. 
 

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Im just here to help you save some money.

To me a 521 is a $1500 rig and always will be. that is general good condition,driving.

 

3 yrs ago a I got a 91 and a 92 toyota 2wd pickups one 700$(267K miles) and one $1500(77k miles)  3 times better rigs and more reliable.  no rust!!!!!!!!!!

 

521 is 3 times cooler!!!!!!!!

my 510 is 5 times COOLerP1000814.thumb.JPG.77fa5a14a7c04e6372e9fb7ee0a0e0f7.JPG

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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On 2/1/2026 at 3:38 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Im just here to help you save some money.

To me a 521 is a $1500 rig and always will be. that is general good condition,driving.

 

3 yrs ago a I got a 91 and a 92 toyota 2wd pickups one 700$(267K miles) and one $1500(77k miles)  3 times better rigs and more reliable.  no rust!!!!!!!!!!

 

521 is 3 times cooler!!!!!!!!

my 510 is 5 times COOLerP1000814.thumb.JPG.77fa5a14a7c04e6372e9fb7ee0a0e0f7.JPG

Hell yay brother I respect that. and youre right Toyota>Datsun for just about everything but cool factor. I’m seeing running Toyota mini trucks running 3ish grand about and Datsuns are all over the place in price. Even on the classifieds here. Some people charging 10k+. For me the price was right to get it home, figure it out later. But yeah man ill sure be paying for everything I touch in there. 
 

Maybe you’re right though, I get back from the crime scene and see it in a new light in the driveway and may go a different direction. Your pickup $2500…sounds good about now haha. 😆 

 

love that 510. If I’m going small car id probably fulfill my dreams of a bmw 2002 or better yet 700 model.

 

scheduled for Thursday to get this pickup home. Will post more about it then. Taking my backpack blower with to give it its first cleaning before it leaves the farm 😂 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/2/2026 at 3:22 PM, Carl Handratty said:

  

scheduled for Thursday to get this pickup home. Will post more about it then. Taking my backpack blower with to give it its first cleaning before it leaves the farm 😂 

 

Well that's 10 days ago.

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Oh, I’ve got the truck back, took it apart and power washed it. I’ve just been deterred from getting posts up because I need to make an imgur accnt or whatever to add photos on here. Not used to that style of uploading compared to other forums. I’ll get pics up hopefully tomorrow. 
 

the Mosstun looks so much better after a couple hour bath  😆 

 

Also, really considering using the original powerplant to get it back on the road even after 30 hours or research on 13b, ka24, sr and rb swaps. But I know a lot more about those engines now. 

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Alright, I had to upload my iPhone HEIC pics to Google Drive, DL them, Upload those to a HEIC to JPEG site, DL them again as JPEG, Upload them to IMGUR then paste the link here. Am I missing something? What a PITA.

 

Truck moving after 38 years parked. Only the back passenger tire was free. Once we got it home we banged on the drums until they came off but not without a lot of rage.

vZolgYG.jpeg

 

Here it is after a painful trailering experience with 3 wheels locked up. Would have been impossible without the skid loader and forks.

ddNxYfW.jpeg

mb1BDqh.jpeg

 

Some decades to remove.

JYruTjS.jpeg

 

Finally scooped this out today. Was all a frozen ice block for the last two weeks but its been in the 40s here in MN the last 5 days.

3u0zaCI.jpeg

 

I think I'm going to keep the 1.6L or look for a 2.0L while I get the body ready. I had all these plans to replace it with a 2.4L but I kind of like the option of keeping it semi original.

bF2fLz6.jpeg

 

Driver floors need replacement. Driver door is likely a replacement. The inside is reddish orange unlike the rest of the green truck.

3FP180b.jpeg

 

power washed the truck, was hoping more red paint would be blown off.

4gTwlHZ.jpeg

wbXtW3z.jpeg

 

Power washed all of the grime off.

xkXDiPp.jpeg

 

cold compression numbers just turning it over. Haven't started the engine yet cuz the carb is thrashed and the plug wires are trash and broken. Not to mention my wiring harness is cut out. Cylinder 4 was super jumpy. Sometimes 20psi then the next time 40psi and so on. Either way, not super valuable numbers because the engines not warmed but there IS compression so that's hopeful. I'm going to rebuild it anyway. C2-3 I put oil in after the original test and they said more or less the same. C1 went from 0 to 20-25 PSI after a squirt of oil so that's better than stuck.

SBcMhQG.jpeg

 

 

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SBcMhQG.jpeg

 

Better check the engine ID. It's right behind the dip stick handle. Might be an L18. The head is totally wrong for the L16 but they were used on the L18 and L20B. This would also explain the clutch fan as no 521 came with one and the silver block paint.

 

Those are terrible compression numbers. Did you get it with the carburetor off? Rainwater may have gotten in over the years and rusted the valves and seats.

 

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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

SBcMhQG.jpeg

 

Better check the engine ID. It's right behind the dip stick handle. Might be an L18. The head is totally wrong for the L16 but they were used on the L18 and L20B. This would also explain the clutch fan as no 521 came with one.

 

Those are terrible compression numbers. Did you get it with the carburetor off? Rainwater may have gotten in over the years and rusted the valves and seats.

 

The little tag says L16. Yeah compression is abso f'd. The carb was on it but was off for testing and the intake looks obstruction free from what I can see. All the plugs were out to allow easier turn over. Who knows why it was parked in the first place. Figured it would need the full treatment. 

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