Front end bits

[Dawsf]

Hello all, 

I have a problem. My truck has absolutely busted steering and alignment geometry. It has never drove straight very well. The truck has all approximate matched settings: the torsion bars are set to the same adjustment, the tension rods have the same number of threads sticking out the front and back, and the cross member (a sort of early tie-rod?) has 11 threads before the ball joint on both sides. So, despite all this, the passenger side front wheel has damn near 10 degrees of toe-out and at least a few degrees of negative camber. This is weird because the driver side has positive camber and toe-in, so literally the opposite. Even with the torsion bars set to max carriage height, the passenger side tire will still not gain positive camber. As for the toe-out, would simply removing the cross member and adjusting the tie-rod ends correct this? I was able to get the castle-nut side of the ball joint removed from the idler arm, but because of the position of the cross member on top of the idler arm, I could not actually remove the cross-member/tie-rod from the truck because there was not enough clearance above it to pull bar up and out of the idler arm hole. I feel like there is some sort of song and dance to this suspension dark art that I am not understanding. I can post a youtube video to explain this, as It seems super complicated to explain with out a photo or diagram. I am talking about number 9 in the following link, if it helps: https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/pickup-1965-1972/steering-frame/steering-linkage

 

Plus, I feel like I might be chasing smoke. The whole front end probably needs an overhaul in the form of new bushings, ball joints, and king pins, but I would imagine that would cause slop in both sides. The passenger side tire is so out of whack I wonder if there is a deeper issue afoot rather than mis-adjustments? Nothing looks crazy bent or outright unbolted that I can tell. The king pin is not loose enough to see noticeable movement. The shocks are new and matched both sides, for what its worth. Any advice or direction would be great. Thank you! 

 

[datzenmike]

If you turn the steering wheel to the left and bring the right (passenger) tire inwards this should also move the left tire outward so it's not that bad. Just not centered.

 

Center the steering box first and then adjust the tie rod ends to align the two wheels. This will likely improve the camber as well.

 

Torsion bars don't necessarily have to have the same threads showing. One may be weaker than the other forcing one to support more weight. Adjusting one changes the other. So set the ride height on both sides by going back and forth on the torsion bar adjustments. Camber is a function of road height.

[ggzilla]

That is a problem. For correct alignment, often the settings must differ side-to-side. Adjust for equal toe out, and not for identical threads

8 hours ago, Dawsf said:

the cross member (a sort of early tie-rod?) has 11 threads before the ball joint on both sides. So, despite all this, the passenger side front wheel has damn near 10 degrees of toe-out

 

Yes, adjust by first centering the box, then adjust each side to correct spec

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Center the steering box first and then adjust the tie rod ends to align the two wheels.

 

I would also examine the rod-ends for play. If you can move the cross rod with the steering wheel a little bit, before the passenger side wheel moves, replace the rod-end. This technically should be done before alignment

[Dawsf]

Thank you for your input. I haven't really messed with steering stuff yet so I had no idea about centering the steering box. That makes sense though. All of the undercarriage looks like original hardware. Should I replace the tie rod ends preventatively since I have to take the center link out anyways? I wouldn't mind replacing parts, but I don't know if I have to replace the pressed in ball joints on all the linkages or if I can get away with putting boots on them, filling with grease, and calling it a day. Also, I finally figured out how to add photos to this sight so here is a photo of the truck. It is not the best but the only option under 4mb, which I guess is the sight's restriction. 

[ggzilla]

don't replace what aint broken

9 minutes ago, Dawsf said:

Should I replace the tie rod ends preventatively since I have to take the center link out anyways?

There is no need to remove the cross rod to adjust the steering or alignment

 

Lubing the chassis should be done once a year, even with new parts

10 minutes ago, Dawsf said:

I don't know if I have to replace the pressed in ball joints on all the linkages or if I can get away with putting boots on them, filling with grease, and calling it a day.

Only replace the parts if they are worn. Adjust the front wheel bearings first, to eliminate that as a source of wobblyness. Then see if you can move the top or bottom of the tire. If it moves, replace the ball joints. Grease won't remove worn parts

[ggzilla]

That is a great photo of a nice 320!

15 minutes ago, Dawsf said:

here is a photo of the truck. It is not the best but the only option under 4mb, which I guess is the sight's restriction. 

4MB is little restriction. Many forum sites limit photos to 200K

[Dawsf]

I think I have to remove the cross rod in order to adjust the toe. I can probably get away with removing one side, the offending side, but then I run into the clearance issue. I will try to get better top clearance by adjusting the steering left to right. There might be a position that is easier to pull the tie rod ends out of the idler arm. I have seen cars where the tie rod ends are adjustable while still installed on the car. But, with the 320, the cross rod has the tie rod ends that are threaded, so the whole tie rod end, ball joint included, has to spin in order to adjust toe. Then the tie rod is snugged with a jam nut. It should be easy, in theory. But in practice, there is a lot of wrestling. 

[ggzilla]

You can loosen the lock nuts, then turn the cross rod to adjust toe-in, while it is still installed.

But in the case were left is correct and only right side needs adjustment, then separate the RH rod end from the steering arm. Loosen the lock nut, then rotate to where you want it. In theory ...

 

 

[Dawsf]

So, I made the adjustments. After cranking the passenger side tie rod all the way down, the toe-out did improve. However, even with the passenger side tightened all the way down, the wheel still has about 1.5 degrees more toe out than the driver side. Total spec measured now is 0.5 degree toe-out on driver side and 2 degrees toe-out passenger side. The factor spec is 2-3mm toe-in, so I am at a loss for how to add more toe-in on the passenger side. The driver side still has more adjustment room so I am note worried about that side. Also, after the adjustments, my steering wheel is clocked 90 degrees to the right. This was a strange and concerning, but funny, result. The steering feels different. The truck still pulls to the right but less aggressively, likely the result of the toe adjustment. And the steering is significantly lighter. Both are good things. However, the truck wants to wander more: I feel like I am making adjustments constantly now. Camber is also still wrong on the passenger side, but I have adjusted the tension rod nearly to its max height.

 

Long story short: steering is a bit better, but I am still out of spec even with adjustments to their maximum on the passenger side. Also, the steering wheel is all funky now. I could just remove and re-clock the steering wheel, but that doesn't feel like its "fixing" the issue. 

[datzenmike]

Caster is somewhat adjustable with the tension rod. Caster is what you meant to say not camber. Camber is usually adjustable with shims.

 

If your pitman arm is centered then you have equal L&R travel of the steering so yes, center the steering wheel. (when done) 

 

I'm not familiar with the 320 at all. Can you post a picture of the L&R steering knuckles where the tie rods connect? Something must be bent.