Starter Solenoid, Click No-Start

[sTanTruck]

Hi All, 

I have been chasing an electrical issue with my 1986 Nissan 720 Z24 in circles for days and I could use some wisdom imparted on me. 

I had an issue with my voltage regulator on my truck leading to the electrical system over-charging (to about 16-17V at peak). This caused my alternator to let off a noxious odor and smoke to come off of it right before I turned it off and parked it. Just before this I had washed my truck, especially in the engine bay, and noticed a click no-start just after. On the second turn of the key the truck started and I pulled it into where it is parked now. 

 

I replaced the alternator thinking this would get it running again, the issue remained. I then ran a serious of test to determine where the issue was coming from.

I checked ( and replaced) grounds to the body, frame, and engine.

I tried shunting the solenoid with 12v to the trigger spade connector on the solenoid. This just gave me a click of the solenoid pushing the bendix in but never engaged the starter motor. 

I have pulled the starter out and bench tested it to confirm it works. 

I have confirmed that the trigger wire (red/black) is supplying a 12v signal when the key is turned.

I have gotten my battery tested by two different shops and was told it was ok.

I have run the truck  by shunting the trigger wire and motor terminal on the solenoid with 12v and verified the alternator charges the battery.

I have checked the teeth on the flywheel, they are a little scared up but I have seen much worse. 

 

My plan:

I am going to pull every fuse, check resistance level and replace (I know its not a trigger wire thing but its worth a shot)

I am going to rebuild another starter and put a new solenoid on it. 

And double-check my fusible links are ok through a resistance test.

 

If you have any suggestions on other things to check please let me know. 

 

Thanks in Advance, 

Dylan 

[Thomas Perkins]

That happened to me.It killed my brand new battery.I replaced both and that fixed everything.I use a 60 amp alternator.

Edited October 2, 2025 by Thomas Perkins

[datzenmike]

Nothing on or in the fuse box has anything to do with the starter. Battery and ground are directly connected to the starter and the start signal comes directly from the ignition switch which is connected to the battery. 

 

If the starter does nothing but click and does not turn then starter ring teeth condition have nothing to do with this.

 

1/  If the battery is fully charged...

2/  The battery positive and battery negative terminals are clean and tight and the other ends on the starter and the engine ground are clean and tight. (never assume)...

3/ You jumpered 12v to the start terminal and all it did was click, then the starter solenoid is bad.

[Thomas Perkins]

Something else made my Nissan not start not too long ago.It would start,then it would not.I would take the second fuse out and put it back in and it would start.Then it would not start.So that fuse thing was not the problem.Everything was new battery,starter,alternator,fusible link.clean ground wires.So only thing left was the igntion switch.I removed it and the 5 connectors were real dirty.I took a piece of sand paper and cleaned them.Then,I got a little bitty screw driver and scrapped the inside of the blue female connector.Then it started up and problem solved.AutoZone  had one in stock,almost bought it.May not be your problem but,it maybe.See how dirty it was,not getting a good connection.It came real clean.It is a bitch to get that little phillips head screw off.My speedometer cable was leaking oil at one time,could of gotten on the igntion switch and caused this.Oil also got on my emergency brake wire  and caused the brake light on the dash not come on.Close to where oil leaks,it was leaking real bad at one time,all behind my cluster and floor board.What else could of caused this?

 

Edited October 3, 2025 by Thomas Perkins

[sTanTruck]

@Thomas Perkins Thanks for the reply!! Its not the battery I got it tested twice at two different stores and put a known good battery from a different vehicle in there. Still not it. What brand/model # is your alternator? I have been trying to get my hands on a 60-amp version.

 

I figured it out! It turns out the positive 2 Gauge wire coming off of the battery was the issue. I determined this by removing the wire and using a jumper cable to connect the solenoid to the battery terminal. Truck started right up! I will be making a new beefy cable out of some salvaged welding cable 🙂 

 

This issue was caused over a long time; washing the truck was not the cause, but probably contributed to the final bit of corrosion that made it stop working. This was a tricky one because it showed 12v at the terminal on the solenoid. The issue was that it couldn't flow the amperage needed to push the starter motor throught the crappy battery cable.  

[Thomas Perkins]

Great job.

[banzai510(hainz)]

what I do is put a volt meter between the battery post and the cable end. put key to ON. now if you get a voltage it means there is resistance ,voltage drop between the connection. Most time its corrossion. or if one uses the cheap cable ends, the ones you bolt together orr the thin strap ones they can crack if over tighten.

 

Now if you still have a starter click after this then one needs to put a starter relay in the system cause your key switch is wearing out or causeing a voltage drop not throwing the selinoid. a Relay will use the weak signal to trigger the relay wire to the battery for a straight 12volts.

[DwayneOxford]

Good investment.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Automotive+Test+Light+with+3-48V+LED+Digital+Voltage+Display%2C+Auto+Circuit+Tester+with+Voltmeter+%26+Dual+Color+Polarity+Indicate%2C+Electric+Test+Pen+w%2FStainless+Probe+for+Car%2FTruck%2FSUV+Checker&i=industrial&crid=3JUEJ6YVZB7W8&sprefix=automotive+test+light+with+3-48v+led+digital+voltage+display%2C+auto+circuit+tester+with+voltmeter+%26+dual+color+polarity+indicate%2C+electric+test+pen+w%2Fstainless+probe+for+car%2Ftruck%2Fsuv+checker%2Cindustrial%2C222&ref=nb_sb_nos

 

 

Edited October 4, 2025 by DwayneOxford

[ggzilla]

22 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

a Relay will use the weak signal to trigger the relay wire to the battery for a straight 12volts.

Yes, you could either fit a relay with extra wiring ... or replace the part causing the voltage drop. Which is usually either the battery cable terminal end or the ignition switch which just bolts to the back of the key cylinder.

[Thomas Perkins]

.Probably needs cleaning.

Edited October 4, 2025 by Thomas Perkins