KA24e swap into 1985 Nissan 720 4x4

[six-factorial-driver]

Sharing an update and need some help on my 1994 KA24e swap into my 720 

I got most of the "mechanical" information from nicoclub from a post made by noface 

(i got sick of blowing headgaskets; and yes i've seen the posts by the purists and the "if you do it right" etc.

frankly, i don't. so...

 

My main hiccup is the wiring, I've seen the CAN/AM relay board on nicoclub,

and well, i'm cheap and i don't want to do that.

I've pulled the whole wiring harness from the hardbody to disseminate it, leaving only what I need,

The question is, what can I get rid of and what should I keep and reroute?

I plan on running the ECM in an open loop to avoid smog etc, I've already removed it all anyway.

I'm keeping the SVC (swirl control valve)

(it's pretty straightforward)

I'm going to wire in the KA alternator; no biggie

 

Main issues are 

1. The tach/coil situation 

2. If I need the speed sensor 

3. What I need to/can remove/cut on the 720 side without killing stuff (mainly inst. cluster)

 

I'm using the KA coil. 

According to a (factory service manual) FSM the tach signal goes through the ECM to the D21 tachometer, what I don't know is how to patch into that.

Can I take the output from the ECM or do I have to patch into a wire to take the pulse? I also could be looking at this entirely wrong.

 

In the FSM, the speed sensor is the opposite, it goes to the speedometer before the ECM. No where in noface's post did it mention a need for a speed sensor so do I need it or can I bypass it?

I do however plan on keeping the wiring for it in case i swap to a FS5W71C from my FS5W71B

Also note mine is the 4x4 so the 720 speed sensor is in the transfer case.

However (pure curiosity) would the speed sensor from the FS5W71C work in a FS5W71B?

 

 

720 P.S. Pump

Alternator Cavity

Coil mounted

Motor mount Driver side

  

Relocated Washer bottle and Surge tank from D21 using modified Carbon Canister bracket

Exhaust mani. and Dist.

Also what kind of header could i get to fit in there or should I just get something custom?

 

[datzenmike]

By your own admission you don't want to do it right and you don't want the ease of a CanAm box. How is running in open loop going to avoid smog????? the opposite would be true. You do know that closed loop is disconnected under heavy throttle when power is needed and closed loop (used 99% of the time) is for economy???? How are you going to force it to stay in open loop without error codes and poor performance?  

 

 

If you have the high pressure pump in, take it off and sell it. Pull the TBI off, make a 3/8" aluminum plate adapter and drill and tap to take a Weber or your old 720 carburetor. Throttle cable air filter and fuel lines already there. Drop the oil pump and remove the drive spindle and the CAS. (crank angle sensor) Put your Z24 spindle and distributor in and wire it up to the ignition wiring already in your truck. Tach wire is the blue one and already wired into the intake coil, again already wired in and there. Just use that coil and half the plug wires. You have everything you need right there but the adapter to make a carbureted KA24E. No wiring, no sensors, no EFI. The KA temperature sender will probably work the 720 gauge but you can always put the 720 sender in. KA alternator plug is different but still two wires. 

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/farmer_joe620/Mobile Uploads/20141027_212422_HDR_zpscumrbx3k.jpg

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/farmer_joe620/20140928_162359_HDR_zpsc1shhhdt.jpg 

[ggzilla]

1 hour ago, six-factorial-driver said:

I've pulled the whole wiring harness from the hardbody to disseminate it, leaving only what I need,

The question is, what can I get rid of and what should I keep and reroute?

I remember reading about this on Nico Club, they told which wires are needed

[]2eDeYe]

9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 you don't want the ease of a CanAm box. 

 

 

To be fair, these are no longer available. 🙂

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

Set the tach up with the 720 system. 
Same with the speedo, it uses the mechanical style.

 

 

As far as the wiring, you can remove most everything from the d21 harness that is directly connected to the engine or the ecu. 
There is a relay box on the d2 harness for the eccs, ecu and fuel pump that you can keep, power up and run everything from.

[six-factorial-driver]

Thanks, 

that's kind of what I thought.  

I'm specifically trying to keep EFI. 

10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 How are you going to force it to stay in open loop without error codes and poor performance?

datzenmike if i run closed loop, what do I need to keep? Cause my understanding of "smog" might be flawed. 

I suppose my question is what all can I remove but still keep a normal closed loop?

I thought by just running it in open loop that I would just have a linear fuel mapping and have it run based on that.

 

I suppose that doesn't account for fuel consumption under load or in deceleration 

[bottomwatcher]

I did this probably 10 years ago but used the 240sx harness since it is an engine harness separate from the truck harness. I also went 240sx intake, probably really difficult to source now. Anys for a couple of answers. Speed sensor required if you use a manual ecm otherwise engine cuts out at 3,500 rpm. Automatic ecu no problem.

I have can am box and it made things easier but you can kind of make your own fuse panel top power ecu, fuel pump and ignition powered by a relay you can get by. In theory you can just twist all the wires together and it will run but you will burn out your ignition switch. Set up an arduino relay panel would be a neater installation.

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[datzenmike]

22 hours ago, six-factorial-driver said:

Thanks, 

that's kind of what I thought.  

I'm specifically trying to keep EFI. 

datzenmike if i run closed loop, what do I need to keep? Cause my understanding of "smog" might be flawed. 

I suppose my question is what all can I remove but still keep a normal closed loop?

I thought by just running it in open loop that I would just have a linear fuel mapping and have it run based on that.

 

I suppose that doesn't account for fuel consumption under load or in deceleration 

 

Open loop is for warm up when running a slightly rich condition. When the engine temperature sensor (not sender for the gauge) shows engine is warmed up and if throttle position sensor shows just about anything but wide open it adds 0² sensor in (closed loop) to maintain stoichiometric fuel mixtures for good economy and low emissions. When throttle position sensor shows full open the O² output is ignored and the system reverts to open loop. Then a built in fuel map is used for maximum performance.

 

I would say all the sensors are needed for full and proper EFI and ignition timing. 

 

I've pulled the EFI harness from an S13 and yes, it's separate and can be fed back through the fire wall on the driver's side and removed with the ECU.

[ggzilla]

Yep, the sensors are needed for maximum performance. The anti-smog features are built into the software inside the ECU. In both open and closed loop modes, anti-smog will work. But in open-loop mode you won't get the best performance

[]2eDeYe]

5 hours ago, ggzilla said:

Yep, the sensors are needed for maximum performance. The anti-smog features are built into the software inside the ECU. In both open and closed loop modes, anti-smog will work. But in open-loop mode you won't get the best performance

 

 

Sent you a PM 🙂