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LZ22 head spacer shim?


toshts

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i564qdZ.jpeg

 

The smaller primary barrel on the Weber is above the larger secondary hole on the intake. Likewise, the larger secondary on the Weber is above the smaller primary hole on the L series intake. Carburetor is on backwards.

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20 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

i564qdZ.jpeg

 

The smaller primary barrel on the Weber is above the larger secondary hole on the intake. Likewise, the larger secondary on the Weber is above the smaller primary hole on the L series intake. Carburetor is on backwards.

Gotcha, I'll swap it around tomorrow. 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

There's no reason to think it won't run but it will run much better the right way around.

It does run with the carb backwards, pretty decently but its pulling lower vacuum than I'd expect

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14 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

isnt that cara off 180degs chock should be on valve cover side. also will match manifold ports hole size

Perhaps it is a Weber 32/36 DFV instead of a DGV. They are mirror images of each other

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It's a dgev and it was definitely backwards lol, didn't remember the intake having different sized ports but it definitely does along with the adapters. Got it flipped and was trying to make a bracket to hold the throttle but gotta head to work, will pick back up when I'm back

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So I got the carb flipped around and brackets placed but it's still pulling low vacuum and wants way more timing than I'd expect. 

 

Here's a vid of it running.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1W-bGfSCdewN6KrmXz5TEDs9fGKLVGxNQ?usp=sharing

 

Also it sounds like the plate separating the engine and trans is rattling at a certain rpm? Might be something else but I used the z22 plate and while the bellhousing bolts and starter line up perfect the other spots where it gets bolted to the trans don't line up, if you guys think that is the source of the noise and not something else I'll go ahead and drill some holes and get it attached securely. 

 

Having to crank my transfer slots high, wanting a bunch of timing and the idle mixture not changing much makes me think I've still got some vacuum leaks most likely around the carb spacers. I flipped the throttle linkage upside down (tried a bunch of ways to fasten a bracket to hold the throttle cable, this was the only way I could get it to work with what I had lying around) so I'll probably try removing the top spacer as it's another adapter and most likely where my leak is (before flipping carb smoke tested and was leaking at the spacers, fixed one spot of leakage and continued to leak at the upper one). 

 

Also considering I might be off a tooth on cam timing but unlikely, set cam to number 2 on the sprocket with both links on both marks along with the mark on the cam tower in the proper location. 

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what does the timing light show??????????

 

didnt you ck the cam timing ? sound like you got it the way you explained it the V notch is under the dash. then its timed or very close to it.

 

update saw the vid.

seems to be running fine except for that grinding. Maybe the choke is still on 

is it from the trans area?  I seen people bot the bolts in wrong on the thormostat housing a longer bolt and pushes the tight side guide in and catching the edge

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Just ran a compression test.

1 - 190

2 - 185

3 - 80

4 - 195

 

Hoping its a valve hanging open, cyl 3 had a rocker stuck up on the edge of the valve spring keeper and not in it's groove but really hoping it didn't bend the valve. Gonna pull the valve cover and see if it hopped up again or I adjusted it wrong. If it was the head gasket I'd expect it to go around the cylinders where I drilled the holes (1 and 4) but not sure at this point.

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3 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

what does the timing light show??????????

 

didnt you ck the cam timing ? sound like you got it the way you explained it the V notch is under the dash. then its timed or very close to it.

Timing light shows 15 degrees advanced and it wants even more. Gonna recheck cam timing when I pull the cover but pretty sure I'm on the money there.

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Think I'm pretty good for cam timing

 

69fF6KC.jpeg

 

Right on 0 at the crank on compression stroke.

 

Exhaust at 9 thou (mostly cold, ran for a couple minutes when I took the vid) and intake at 6 which actually is a little tight? I'll reset them and redo the test. 

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Reset and rechecked, no dice still 80 psi. When I first set the lash I already had the head on/motor assembled and had spun the motor over a few times. Didn't feel any bad resistance or anything and it seemed great but when I adjusted the last for cyl 3 the rocker was hung up on the top of the lash pad. Maybe spinning it over a few times with it like that ended up bending the valve? 

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1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

rocker hung up on lash pad?

Yeah it was when I first assembled it, didn't notice until I'd already spun it over a few times. Like it jumped out of it's groove and was on the upper lip on the side.

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Honestly might be the head gasket the cooling system seemed overly pressurized for how short I ran it the few times I did. Either way gotta pull the head so gonna get started. Think I could get away with using the l20b head gasket? I remember reading that a stock bore z22 (which I think I have) might be able to squeeze it, took a pic when I had it all apart. 

 

NvWumjO.jpeg

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That's an 85mm gasket on an 87mm bore. You could measure the gasket to be sure it isn't over size. Anything protruding into the cylinder will get very hot and erode away. Can cause pinging also

 

Run a leak down test on the low cylinder and know before taking the head off where the compression is going. 

 

If you listen at the carburetor and hear hissing the intake valve is not sealing. Bent or damaged valve or loose seat. Possibly foreign object caught. No lash. Broken spring.

If you listen at the exhaust and hear hissing then an exhaust valve is leaking. Bent or damaged valve or loose seat. Possibly foreign object caught. No lash. Broken spring.

If you listen at the block vent hose and hear hissing then piston not sealing. Worn out rings, broken ring land, hole in piston top.

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14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

That's an 85mm gasket on an 87mm bore. You could measure the gasket to be sure it isn't over size. Anything protruding into the cylinder will get very hot and erode away. Can cause pinging also

 

Run a leak down test on the low cylinder and know before taking the head off where the compression is going. 

 

If you listen at the carburetor and hear hissing the intake valve is not sealing. Bent or damaged valve or loose seat. Possibly foreign object caught. No lash. Broken spring.

If you listen at the exhaust and hear hissing then an exhaust valve is leaking. Bent or damaged valve or loose seat. Possibly foreign object caught. No lash. Broken spring.

If you listen at the block vent hose and hear hissing then piston not sealing. Worn out rings, broken ring land, hole in piston top.

Straight out the intake 😕, already had the manifold off when I checked. Valve cover off as well with the cam lobe straight up and the rocker had the proper lash as well. 

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More common: burnt valve or valve seat

 

Hopefully it is just deposits on the valve seat. I have fixed engines by lapping the valve seat

 

80 psi is very low

Edited by ggzilla
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