LZ22 head spacer shim?

[toshts]

Ended up ordering one of the cheap boursin distributors for now and will keep an eye out for a matchbox in the area. Also will I need the 620 oil pan/pickup with it going in a 2wd 720? 

[datzenmike]

Definitely yes! A Z series pan will not be level with the ground on the bottom and tilted up on the left side.

 

L series on the right. The Z series on the left will rotate counterclockwise to mate to the block

 

 

[toshts]

16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Definitely yes! A Z series pan will not be level with the ground on the bottom and tilted up on the left side.

 

L series on the right. The Z series on the left will rotate counterclockwise to mate to the block

 

 

Thanks good to know, guess I have to clean the nasty pickup and pan from the parts motor after all. Starting to pull the motor now

[banzai510(hainz)]

tHose boursin dist dont line up right .you need a L20 dist mount. and still slot the timing slot. the cap is not datsun either. Be leary

[ggzilla]

The cap is presumably Nissan, but perhaps of the Mitsubishi type instead of Hitachi. Good thing it comes with a cap so 5 years from now you can match it up to a replacement

 

Boursin distributor seems to be good, except for the unstated cap & rotor part numbers. It's made probably by a supplier to Nissan factory outside Japan (i.e. it's not made by Boursin)

 

The distributor mount is in question, as no one has measured the Boursin distributor mount points.  Several have reported that it their Datsun engine, if not some careful measurements and we can help figure out which pedestal and which timing plate you need ... or do like banzai suggests and take a hacksaw to it and make it fit 

[Crashtd420]

I sold someone 2 pedestals, a l20b and a l16 with a plate .... for this distributor..

He said the plate that came with it fit the L20b pedestal...

I asked him to try the l16 plate on it...

He said the l16 plate did line up to the bolt hole on the distributor....

So if you have the l16 pedestal as long as you have the plate to go with it you should be ok....

[toshts]

Boursin next to the dual points 

 

 

and the overlap of the brackets

 

 

Looks like I could use either just need to do a little grinding to make the bolt holes fit, planning on using the bracket from the original distributor on the boursin and grind the part where it bolts to the distributor.

 

Also the boursin has only two wires coming off of it, a red and a blue. The original distributor for my z22 has 3 wires, a red, blue and a black and white. Is the black and white just a ground or do I need to get a different ignition module? 

 

Pic of z22 dizzy wires

[toshts]

Also wondering about the heater core hoses - 

 

This lower one from the block I assume goes to the same spot it was before 

 

 

But the other one that came off of the intake manifold I'm not sure, thinking route to the port on the side of the u67 head? 

 

 

Sadly I have the married intake/exhaust, planning on getting the individual ones when I can find them and have more cash to spare. On the bright side I do have the u67 with the coolant passages for the intake.

[toshts]

Actually this lower port on the lower rad hose connection would probably be a closer fit?

 

 

And I would just plug the port on the head and the second nipple off the lower rad spot?

[toshts]

On 7/16/2025 at 2:30 PM, datzenmike said:

 

I never kept track of them. Wonder what that long one was out of?

 

The long one is the l20b and the short one is the z22, guess that makes sense considering how much longer the z series distributor is

[datzenmike]

I would run the hos TO the heater off the L head position and close the block outlet. The head runs hotter that the block. The hose FROM the heater goes down to the lower radiator hose into the water pump.

[datzenmike]

 

The pipe pointing down into the lower right is the thermostat by pass and should be kept functional. Before they were used the water around the thermostat was stagnant, no flow past it. The thermostat relied on heat convection to warm it up and open it. This caused the coolant in the block and head to over heat yet the thermostat stayed closed. The by pass allows a small amount of coolant out and be 'by passed' back into the block at the lower rad hose fitting. The thermostat then sensed actual engine temperature and reacted promptly.  

[toshts]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

The pipe pointing down into the lower right is the thermostat by pass and should be kept functional. Before they were used the water around the thermostat was stagnant, no flow past it. The thermostat relied on heat convection to warm it up and open it. This caused the coolant in the block and head to over heat yet the thermostat stayed closed. The by pass allows a small amount of coolant out and be 'by passed' back into the block at the lower rad hose fitting. The thermostat then sensed actual engine temperature and reacted promptly.  

Gotcha that makes sense, all the parts are scattered around my garage and I keep finding new ports.

 

 

This grimey nipple with the cracked hose the spot for the bypass? 

[ggzilla]

re you putting the new distributor on an L20B? Use the new bracket on the new distributor. The new bracket will match the L20B pedestal ... but there are two different L20B pedestals. Which one do you have? The L16 dual-points pedestal is different from either

 

The module in the Boursin is the Mitsubishi. It's very good, just needs ground and power and Coil Neg

4 hours ago, toshts said:

Boursin next to the dual points 

 

 

and the overlap of the brackets

 

 

Looks like I could use either just need to do a little grinding to make the bolt holes fit, planning on using the bracket from the original distributor on the boursin and grind the part where it bolts to the distributor.

 

Also the boursin has only two wires coming off of it, a red and a blue. The original distributor for my z22 has 3 wires, a red, blue and a black and white. Is the black and white just a ground or do I need to get a different ignition module? 

 

Pic of z22 dizzy wires

[toshts]

7 minutes ago, ggzilla said:

re you putting the new distributor on an L20B? Use the new bracket on the new distributor. The new bracket will match the L20B pedestal ... but there are two different L20B pedestals. Which one do you have? The L16 dual-points pedestal is different from either

 

The module in the Boursin is the Mitsubishi. It's very good, just needs ground and power and Coil Neg

Its going in the lz22 I'm putting together, not sure of what exactly is what from the l20b I got it seems like it was a complete core thrown together with parts from multiple engines. The boursin bracket just barely doesn't fit on the pedestal that's on the l20b timing cover, just a little grinding and it'll line up you can see how close they are in the pics

[banzai510(hainz)]

 

[toshts]

On 7/24/2025 at 3:27 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

Had to grind the slot just a bit to get it to fit, ended up using the one supplied with the boursin. Do you know which wire is power and which is coil neg? i assume the blues coil neg and the pink is power but I want to get them right.

 

Motor/drivetrains in the truck! Going through the fun process of hooking everything back up and throwing together a temporary exhaust. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

assume red is pos and blu is neg

 

The Boursin has no instructions and the place I bought it from said fit a L16 521 and 510. I think they were not english speakers and wrote no way that will fit a L16 dist mount. Said sent me the vin #s I did they offered 10% off then I asked what dist cap is this from then they gave me a full refund and kept the dist.

There are 2 versions of these there is the screw in cap version and the typical clip version like the datsun dist. But these are not L16 or L20 caps. They could not tell me either what vehicles they fit in case one needs a new one. Wish they could state this.

The only way this fits close is to get a L20 dist mount from the common point dist and then grind the slot in the Bousin dist plate and get to TDC then )-25 degBTDC adjustemtn for the mech adavance.  I have seen them work I havent used mine as I just wanted to try it out but said hell with it I like my Pertronix in the point dist. Boursin should make a plate to fit both set up wouldnt cost more to stamp a plate with slots to make it more universal.

 

also the dist cap rest on a rubber gasket. now if this sticks and gets ripped you need it on there as this is the only gap to prevent the rotor from hitting the terminals inside. so if you LOOSE the gasket your DONE

[toshts]

46 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

assume red is pos and blu is neg

 

The Boursin has no instructions and the place I bought it from said fit a L16 521 and 510. I think they were not english speakers and wrote no way that will fit a L16 dist mount. Said sent me the vin #s I did they offered 10% off then I asked what dist cap is this from then they gave me a full refund and kept the dist.

There are 2 versions of these there is the screw in cap version and the typical clip version like the datsun dist. But these are not L16 or L20 caps. They could not tell me either what vehicles they fit in case one needs a new one. Wish they could state this.

The only way this fits close is to get a L20 dist mount from the common point dist and then grind the slot in the Bousin dist plate and get to TDC then )-25 degBTDC adjustemtn for the mech adavance.  I have seen them work I havent used mine as I just wanted to try it out but said hell with it I like my Pertronix in the point dist. Boursin should make a plate to fit both set up wouldnt cost more to stamp a plate with slots to make it more universal.

 

also the dist cap rest on a rubber gasket. now if this sticks and gets ripped you need it on there as this is the only gap to prevent the rotor from hitting the terminals inside. so if you LOOSE the gasket your DONE

Okay thanks that's good to know, mine seems to fit good after a little grinding in the slots.

[banzai510(hainz)]

remember when or if you get the motor running the slot has to have enough movement to make the timing go to 0 to say 25BTDC. if you got it cranked to one side just to get 10BTDC this might still cause a issue.

More or less I seen off a tooth and they can get it to kinda run if dist is cranked fully to one side. Dont make the same mistake

[toshts]

1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

remember when or if you get the motor running the slot has to have enough movement to make the timing go to 0 to say 25BTDC. if you got it cranked to one side just to get 10BTDC this might still cause a issue.

More or less I seen off a tooth and they can get it to kinda run if dist is cranked fully to one side. Dont make the same mistake

Will do, the original bracket puts it at a different angle and fits if i grind it the same I can swap over if I need to but I have the rotor pointing to 1 with the distributor right in the middle of the adjustment

[toshts]

This is what I've got so far!

 

(don't mind the power steering stuff dangling I've gotta make brackets to fit the pump and idler)

 

Keeping the weber 32/36 for now, have 2 adapter plates and a spacer to make the linkage fit (it's what I had lying around). Reused the bracket to hold the throttle cable but will likely modify as it currently only has 1 bolt holding it on and an exhaust nut to space it.

 

 

 

Used the pipe to the pcv from the block off of the l20b motor, slapped the pcv valve in the middle with rubber lines and used the upper metal hose from either the z22 or a z24 don't remember which and ran it to the carb. 

(don't mind the teflon taped bolt in the manifold, I know teflon and fuel don't mix just temporary probably gonna drill and tap to move the pcv here) 

 

Running the stock z22 dipstick and tube, bent it over a little to clear the exhaust. Filled the completely empty engine with 4.5 quarts of oil, punched a mark where it filled to and that'll be my new full line. It just barely doesn't touch the exhaust so well see if the plastic on it melts lol. 

 

This is far from the finished product, I'm severely lacking time and money so this is all just hastily thrown together (took my time with the engine and did it right hopefully) as a proof of concept that I can drive around town in the meantime. 

 

Just gotta throw together a temporary exhaust, fill the coolant and trans fluid and I should be able to start it up, tune it and drive it.

[datzenmike]

 

 

Block vent should connect to a PCV valve not the air filter. The fitting on the valve cover should go to the air filter. When you get time take that shiny bolt out of the intake below the choke heater, drill and tap for a PCV valve, and connect it up properly.

 

 

Weber should be on with fuel inlet to the front. Flip the throttle pull linkage and the cable will still pull from the driver's side

[toshts]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Block vent should connect to a PCV valve not the air filter. The fitting on the valve cover should go to the air filter. When you get time take that shiny bolt out of the intake below the choke heater, drill and tap for a PCV valve, and connect it up properly.

 

 

Weber should be on with fuel inlet to the front. Flip the throttle pull linkage and the cable will still pull from the driver's side

Was planning on doing that for the pcv but I'll bump it up in importance, currently have a pcv valve in the middle of the rubber hoses in the meantime. 

Is the Weber direction important because of which side has the secondaries or just to keep the linkage in the same spot? 

 

Also it runs! Time to tune and make that exhaust. And holy shit is it nice to have a new clutch the old one was so incredibly glazed it chattered bad

[banzai510(hainz)]

isnt that cara off 180degs chock should be on valve cover side. also will match manifold ports hole size