datzenmike Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 The one pictured has the connection at the front to the by-pass and the one on the side for the TVV Quote Link to comment
Capt. Koko Posted June 18 Author Report Share Posted June 18 Thank you so much. The thermostat housing lowers upper ordered will be in this week. Radiator - three core, aluminum ordered. Next week will be installed. with shroud in place. I’m also placing the metal fuel lines with the return line back in play and attaching the original air intake to the weber carburetor filter bottom plate with modification and utilizing an air intake funnel through the headlight to feed fresh air. datzenmike has often recommended using the original manifolds - intake and exhaust, so after a good wire brush, I will be putting them back on. They have the three heat shields-run coolant through the intake, and the exhaust manifold manages the heat better than my headers (simply can’t do better than what the engineers designed), and I will also wrap the exhaust in heat wrap. All that and with the phenolic riser should alleviate much of the problem. But the reality is Las Vegas and driving in 110+ is not ideal. As you can see, I have learned a lot from my initial question and I am putting it into play. please keep up the great work with all the help that you provide to the members like myself. I truly appreciate it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Capt. Koko Posted July 3 Author Report Share Posted July 3 (edited) was running cooler and better. however carburetor acting up.. now runs barely and backfires all of a sudden. cold or warm. small drip oil under accelerator on bottom front of weber carb. unable to give gas without bogging and happened all of sudden. ugh. tear down carb. next. Edited July 3 by Capt. Koko Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 3 Report Share Posted July 3 Ugh. Tear down a carburetor is the last thing i would do 11 hours ago, Capt. Koko said: carburetor acting up.. now runs barely and backfires all of a sudden. cold or warm. small drip oil under accelerator on bottom front of weber carb. unable to give gas without bogging and happened all of sudden This sounds like a single problem with a single solution. Well, the oil drip is unrelated to the carburetor "nable to give gas without bogging". Hesitating/bucking usually means the accelerator pump. Bogging means loading up and sluggish moving "backfires all of a sudden. cold or warm" could be an ignition problem * Does it backfire at the engine with a "cough" -- that could be the accelerator pump. Or an ignition problem * Or does it backfire at the rear of the car? That could be the choke. Or an ignition problem Quote Link to comment
Capt. Koko Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 (edited) it totally was an ignition problem. it had progressively gotten worse, and I’ve been chasing fuel problems that did not exist. Thank you. I got my multimeter out and checked the coil that was at .07 grab my old one at a 1.02. back to running like a champ. Informed by a Nissan master mechanic at Napa…. (Seems legit😀) that I needed to get a feeler gauge and a dwell meter watch some YouTube videos or I would be going through coils every six months. So that’s what I’m doing. At every turn I am challenged just a little bit to learn and grow with my Datsun. Having been a little lost as I’m getting ready to retire. This is my new joy. So thankful for this forum as well. Edited July 4 by Capt. Koko Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 1978 Datsun 620 sold in CAL used the .7 coil along with electronic ignition. 1978s sold in the rest of US had the higher resistance coil and used contact points distributor. Contact points are supposed to be adjusted every 3 months/3,000 miles per the owner's manual Quote Link to comment
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