Front Suspension Rebuild

[Sissyneck1]

Hey everybody,

 

I've decided to take a shot at rebuilding my front suspension on my '86 4x4 KC. I think I have acquired everything I need:

 

-new CV axles

-grease seals, inner and outer

-tie-rod ends

-sway bar end links

-top and bottom ball joints

-lower control arm bushings

-sway bar bushings

-replace the oil pan seal

 

I'm not sure if I have all the seals ideally one would replace doing a CV replacement, from what I can surmise from the FSM I think the two "wheel seals" are all I could find available. The parts numbers on Rock Auto are as follows:

 

710072 National (Front outer 4WD)

225035 National (Front outer 4WD)  *redundant in case I bought the wrong one*

19639 - SKF (Front inner 4WD)

 

Are there other things I'm missing that will need to put the hub back together? There are some parts in the auto hubs that the FSM states need replacement whenever serviced but I'm not finding replacements anywhere.

 

What grease would you all recommend for this job?  Any other tips or advice appreciated!

[datzenmike]

Any off the shelf ball joint or wheel bearing grease is fine but CV joints need a special CV grease. 

 

As the 720 and the D21 were built in the same year put 720 in your profile. 

[trjerm]

let us know any issues and how it goes ., did most of that 10+ years ago IIRC , except the lower control arm bushing , which now need to be done and wondering if I should redo all the rest , just had a friend change the half axles and he mentioned the slop in lower a arms , so ???

Also there's a set of 30/9.50/15 Falken Wildpeak at tires on 99 toyota tacoma rims , has anyone run that size tire and any issues

[greenflame1]

I'm in the middle of a suspension rebuild on a 1985 720 4x4 and have a question about a grease seal.

 

There's a grease seal between the baffle plate and knuckle spindle that has a metal plate around it. I can't find a replacement on Rock Auto, O'Rielly's or Autozone. 

 

Does anyone know what this grease seal is called and if replacements are still being made? I'd share photos, but I'm new here and haven't figured it out yet. Thanks.

[datzenmike]

Try posting a picture now. 

 

Looks like it's called the 'inner drive shaft oil seal' and Nissan part number #40228-50W01 for both sides. It's also used on the D21 Hardbody 4x4 and the WD21 Pathfinder as part #40228-31G00. Try these part numbers and most auto parts stores can cross reference to after market parts producers. Like a lot of seal and bearing parts they are generic and used in many applications other than Nissan.

[bottomwatcher]

If you physically look at the seal it should have a number on it. This isn't a nissan number but a seal number. Nissan and any other car companies don't make the seal. You can order bearings and seals using the number on them.

[datzenmike]

Right, there is probably a seal for just about anything so Nissan designs something around the seal and uses something off the shelf rather than re-inventing the wheel.

[greenflame1]

Thanks for the part number, that first one is it. I did a quick Google search and confirmed. Thank you.

 

Here’s a photo of one of the seals off my truck. I haven’t found a number on it yet.

 

 

And here’s how it’s shown in the shop manual.

 

[datzenmike]

Number probably on the other side of the rubber. Usually there is a coiled spring on this side? Any chance that the rubber seal part pops out of the metal holder? 

[bottomwatcher]

That should press out. If you have trouble finding a replacement most cities have a place that specializes in bearings and seals. 

[ElliotV]

On 11/28/2025 at 5:37 AM, bottomwatcher said:

That should press out. If you have trouble finding a replacement most cities have a place that specializes in bearings and seals. 

sadly that number is getting fewer and fewer, if you dabble in the really old stuff kansas is the closest place to get babbit bearings redone and clutch and brake relining is becoming a forgotten art as well, used to be a place in Tulsa that did it and now they are closed, old building is still there but not sure how long ago they closed. 

[Thomas Perkins]

Here is the part for sell on ebay.Part number was 40228-50W01.It says 1 in cart.Is that yours?

 

Edited November 29, 2025 by Thomas Perkins

[bottomwatcher]

On 11/29/2025 at 3:07 PM, ElliotV said:

sadly that number is getting fewer and fewer, if you dabble in the really old stuff kansas is the closest place to get babbit bearings redone and clutch and brake relining is becoming a forgotten art as well, used to be a place in Tulsa that did it and now they are closed, old building is still there but not sure how long ago they closed. 

You are probably right. I checked to see if the place is used still existed and it does, but I haven't been there in probably over 10 years. I am able to get what I need by numbers or measuring with calipers and ordering online. That's what kills these places. Alternator and starter shops are getting few and far between too.

[datzenmike]

Back in the day, mid '70s, my '68 510 when i got it, didn't have working windshield squirters. Knowing nothing about them I found they had electric pumps and mine was seized. I found that it was nut and bolted together, so I took apart and cleaned the internal parts with sandpaper and it worked! A couple of years later I bought a new '76 B-210 and to my surprise the electric pump was riveted together, no way to really fix it. Coupled with owners that, through choice or circumstance, didn't or couldn't work on their vehicles home repairs were slowly being edged out and replacing things rather than 'fixing' them was in. You used to be able to get alternator 'repair' kits, even just replacement brushes and for $5 get your alternator going again. Same with wheel cylinders.