S13 Suspension Parts on S110?

[ilios.gr]

 

 

Hey, y'all, (I'm new here so go easy on me)

I super recently picked up an auto '83 S110 200SX. It has loads of quirks that I need to figure out, and one of them is the steering that's a bit weird (perhaps from the brakes?), it wants to go left every time I brake, and it feels a bit loose sometimes or shudders at 45+ mph. 

 

I was wondering if there are any suspension parts from the S13 that I can transplant to make it drive a bit better and perhaps make it easier to lower. I currently have a set of S13 hubs and almost everything for the front suspension (control arms, hubs, knuckles, spindles, and a set of Z32 front brakes), but no coilovers or struts, I can also pull some parts from a Z31 in my backyard if its easier that way but otherwise I would most definitely prefer the S13 stuff since it's way cheaper to buy.

 

Is it plausible (and how hard is it) for me to change up the front suspension using the S13 parts, or should I just stick to the OEM one that I currently have and try fixing things from there? I tried searching on Google and on this website about S13 suspension compatibility, but all the leads I found ended up with a dead link. 

 

Thanks in advance, and glad to be here!

 

(I have more random nissan/datsun cars but right now I'm a bit focused on the 200, since its the only one in a condition that I can take it out for somewhat long drive.)

[datzenmike]

The right caliper is not working properly so the left one pulls to that side. I'm surprised you haven't taken the wheels off and had a look. 

 

The caliper is designed to 'float' and self center over the rotor. It has to be free to slide sideways. If stuck only one of the pads will effectively push on the rotor. By applying the brake you may notice that the rotor is pushed to one side slightly. Possibly the caliper is leaking brake fluid and wet pads will not grip the rotor either. Perhaps the pads are severely worn out on the right side.

 

Pull the wheels and have a look. Parts are relatively cheap and available. At the most, replacing the rotors calipers and pads should restore the braking to new. 

 

 

Z32 calipers need a 16" rim and the hub is 5 lug

S13 struts might work

 

 

 

Z31 or 280zx struts (above) can be modified to work on the S110. They are a massive caliper and vented rotor suitable for a 14" rim. The Z31 spring would need to be removed as it is far too large a diameter and the S110 spring used. Cut the lower spring perch off of both struts but keep the S110 perch, spring and top hat to use on the Z31 strut tube. Assemble using a 2" split collar under and supporting the S110 spring perch, the S110 spring above this and the S110 top hat above that.

 

The spring perch is welded to the strut tube so trim just above the weld with angle grinder or hacksaw. Grind down the old weld on the Z31 tube and you are pretty much done.

 

 

 

 

Assembled it will look something like this...

 

 

The 280zx strut is at least an inch shorter. There are some things to consider. ANY lowering will affect the alignment toe-in and the camber of the tire but worse, bump steer is introduced. Now is a good time to consider stiffening the spring by trimming the length but don't cut blindly as it can't be put back together. There are some easy measurements to make of your S110 coil spring and a formula to work out a preferred spring rate. Last is the oil filled damper inside the 280zx strut. If its been replaced with a dry inset then just replace, but if still contains the original oil filled damper this can be drained and a thicker viscosity hydraulic fluid used. The thicker oil is harder to push through the valves and $15 is cheaper than new inserts.

 

Love the looks of the S110!

[ggzilla]

7 hours ago, ilios.gr said:

I was wondering if there are any suspension parts from the S13 that I can transplant to make it drive a bit better and perhaps make it easier to lower.

You can, but it will then lower in exactly the same way. The front struts are very similar. The S110 struts can be lowered 2 inches without modification. If you want to go even lower then cut & weld the strut or use the shorter 280ZX strut. Note that you can fit the S13 brake rotors to the S110 struts

 

The rear of the S13 240Z is Independent Rear Suspension, which will make lowering more difficult. The S110 200SX is much easier to lower in the rear, by using lowering blocks

[ilios.gr]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The right caliper is not working properly so the left one pulls to that side. I'm surprised you haven't taken the wheels off and had a look. 

 

The caliper is designed to 'float' and self center over the rotor. It has to be free to slide sideways. If stuck only one of the pads will effectively push on the rotor. By applying the brake you may notice that the rotor is pushed to one side slightly. Possibly the caliper is leaking brake fluid and wet pads will not grip the rotor either. Perhaps the pads are severely worn out on the right side.

 

Pull the wheels and have a look. Parts are relatively cheap and available. At the most, replacing the rotors calipers and pads should restore the braking to new. 

 

 

Z32 calipers need a 16" rim and the hub is 5 lug

S13 struts might work

 

 

 

Z31 or 280zx struts (above) can be modified to work on the S110. They are a massive caliper and vented rotor suitable for a 14" rim. The Z31 spring would need to be removed as it is far too large a diameter and the S110 spring used. Cut the lower spring perch off of both struts but keep the S110 perch, spring and top hat to use on the Z31 strut tube. Assemble using a 2" split collar under and supporting the S110 spring perch, the S110 spring above this and the S110 top hat above that.

 

The spring perch is welded to the strut tube so trim just above the weld with angle grinder or hacksaw. Grind down the old weld on the Z31 tube and you are pretty much done.

 

 

 

 

Assembled it will look something like this...

 

 

The 280zx strut is at least an inch shorter. There are some things to consider. ANY lowering will affect the alignment toe-in and the camber of the tire but worse, bump steer is introduced. Now is a good time to consider stiffening the spring by trimming the length but don't cut blindly as it can't be put back together. There are some easy measurements to make of your S110 coil spring and a formula to work out a preferred spring rate. Last is the oil filled damper inside the 280zx strut. If its been replaced with a dry inset then just replace, but if still contains the original oil filled damper this can be drained and a thicker viscosity hydraulic fluid used. The thicker oil is harder to push through the valves and $15 is cheaper than new inserts.

 

Love the looks of the S110!

 

Thank you so much!

 

I had the same thought of the right caliper sticking but I haven’t got to take off the wheel and inspect it since I got it I think 4 days ago, I was a bit more focused on the back left wheel since it was loose and wobbly.

 

My plan was to bleed the brake and see if that fixes to the problem, I was just thinking about putting in my spare parts just for easier mods since the S13 has more support,

 

Also by S13 I meant the 240sx from the early 90s, I do have a spare 280z strut and complete front suspension but I would fall in the same problem with less available mods and fitting problems.

[ilios.gr]

25 minutes ago, ggzilla said:

You can, but it will then lower in exactly the same way. The front struts are very similar. The S110 struts can be lowered 2 inches without modification. If you want to go even lower then cut & weld the strut or use the shorter 280ZX strut. Note that you can fit the S13 brake rotors to the S110 struts

 

The rear of the S13 240Z is Independent Rear Suspension, which will make lowering more difficult. The S110 200SX is much easier to lower in the rear, by using lowering blocks

Is there a specific way I can lower the suspension without modification? I’m a bit lost on how I can do that other than cutting the springs or putting a set of lowering springs on it. 
 

Also by S13 i meant the 240sx from the 90s, I got a spare set of front and rear suspension but I’m thinking of just doing the fronts due to the fact that the rears on the s110 are solid axles and it would be a lot of work for the time being.

[ggzilla]

yes I made a mistake, I meant to wire S13 240SX, but wrote S13 240Z which makes no sense

\

8 minutes ago, ilios.gr said:

Is there a specific way I can lower the suspension without modification?

You do not need to modify the strut. Only the spring need changing. You can cut 1/2 coil off the springs, or use custom springs. The strut modification or replacement is for extreme lowering, for example 75 mm of lowering

 

Sold axles are very easy to lower, except I forgot the S110 uses coil springs. I have never done it, but I believe it's the same as the front: cut the spring or use custom springs. Same as how a 240SX with coil spring all around would be lowered

[ggzilla]

beautiful!

8 hours ago, ilios.gr said:

[datzenmike]

Do not cut the spring to lower. Shortening the spring increases the stiffness. The chance of getting the ride height exactly where you want it AND not too stiff is very unlikely. A lowering spring probably retains the same spring rate and ride.

 

 

The first gen S10 200sx did use leaf springs. The later '82-'83 S110 uses an H-190 differential that is much stouter than the '80-'81 which had the H-165.

[ggzilla]

The third option for the front, which Mike already outline, is to use lowering collars. It allows use of the stock springs, with a lowered spring perch.  This requires an easy  modification to the strut, just cut the spring perch welds. The tube-locking collars are about $20 each. If you lower only an inch or two, you do not need to shorten the strut tube

 

With any lowering, most like an increased spring rate to help prevent bottoming out and for betting handling. But it isn't necessary and you might like to keep the smoother-riding stock spring rates

[ilios.gr]

Hey y'all, thank you for the very helpful input.

 

I've been looking towards cutting the spring perch welds, and I remember a couple of years ago I read a write-up (maybe a video?) about using the GC spring kits (https://groundcontrolstore.com/products/coilover-conversion-kit-74-78-nissan-260-280z-not-zx-weld) like this one for my S30 for no welds, and I was wondering if it would be the same too for the S110. I know they sell a couple for EK/EG civics for like $40 a set on eBay, and maybe I can find something more fitting for the S110. However, I can't really tell how good or bad it is, it's a pretty cool idea in lieu of coilovers because it would require somewhat no welding but still have some adjustability of coilovers. I would still use the lowering collars but just with an extra step of the 

 

Also, if I do end up going the S13 knuckle and control arm route, do y'all know if it lines up well enough with the cross-member, or do I need to fabricate adapters to make it fit? I see some people did it to their S130s and S12, and I can not find anything about it for the S110 (to be fair, I can't find sh*t for the S110). 

S110 200sx front xmem

S13 240SX front xmem

Looking at the pictures, it looks similar enough that it can fit apart from the tension rod bracket. My question is, should I slap it on the S110, or should I save the S13 suspension stuff for my S30 and make it work there instead of going the T3/AE route? (if it is even worth it to try)

[datzenmike]

Definitely if lowering you want to stiffen the spring or replace with one with a higher spring rate. The stock springs are always a factory compromise favoring comfort over handling. Eventually on a lowered ride height you will hit a dip or speed bump. My 710 has a stock spring rate of around 100 pounds / inch. The 510 is around 98 lb./in. so I would imagine your S110 would be about the same. The Maxima spring I had works out to about 150 because it's a heavier car and would be similar to the S30. It would be good to know what your spring rate is now so you know what direction to go if buying replacements. There are some measurements you can make of your spring, a formula and a little math to find out, and this is what I did on my 710 front coils. All Datsun models have different coils, thickness of the wire, coil diameter and number of coils all affect the rate, but I worked out that 1 1/4 coil removed increased my spring rate to 150 lb./in. Combined with the lowering split collars I mentioned earlier and a modest drop of a couple of inches I was very comfortable with the handling and ride. Rather than just buying 250 lb./in. coils and finding it's no fun to ride in it.

 

As for the 240sx front find a write up of one being swapped into an S110 or any other Datsun and see what's involved. It could be a one way street and no way to turn around once started. I don't see the 240sx struts being any better, other than the brakes.

 

 

The depth of your strut tube is 439mm on the S110, the 280zx tube is 376mm so that's a drop of 2.5" with no other change other than swapping in 280zx struts. Well other than swapping the coils and using split collars. With that you get massively large calipers and vented rotors. Like these...

 

 

[Bleach]

I bought one of those cheap Honda coilover kits. The diameter is too small for the threaded sleeve to slip over the 280Z strut (and the 280ZX is likely the same) They will only slip over the smaller diameter "early" 240Z struts. Just to make sure, you know the 280Z and the 280ZX are different cars and different types of front struts. Hopefully you don't get those two confused.

 

However, I did use parts of the cheap coilover kit to create a non-adjustable (no weld) front coilover for my 1978 280Z. I made a video showing how it was done on youtube. I've driven about 1000 miles on it so far.

[ggzilla]

S13 brakes can be larger than the 280ZX

* S13 rotors 250mm, 257mm or 280mm diameter vented

* S130 280ZX rotors 258mm vented

 

Yes, the 280ZX strut tubes are shorter, but the S110 or S13 struts are suitable for lowering without cutting the strut tubes. They have enough travel in them to lower the car about 2" and still have some suspension travel. For moar lowering the 280ZX struts are popular, or by cutting the S110 or S13 strut tubes

 

All are 2" struts so the same shaft collars can be used. 280ZX shock inserts can be used on the S110, so you aren't limited by the S110 strut

 

You can bolt any of the larger rotors to the S110 struts, and fabricate an adapter bracket for the matching caliper

 

As I recall, the 280ZX struts bolt right up to the S110 lower control arm. The S13 struts will not

 

[ilios.gr]

On 5/12/2025 at 6:57 AM, datzenmike said:

The depth of your strut tube is 439mm on the S110, the 280zx tube is 376mm so that's a drop of 2.5" with no other change other than swapping in 280zx struts. Well other than swapping the coils and using split collars. With that you get massively large calipers and vented rotors. Like these...

 

On 5/12/2025 at 12:34 PM, ggzilla said:

All are 2" struts so the same shaft collars can be used. 280ZX shock inserts can be used on the S110, so you aren't limited by the S110 strut

 

You can bolt any of the larger rotors to the S110 struts, and fabricate an adapter bracket for the matching caliper

 

As I recall, the 280ZX struts bolt right up to the S110 lower control arm. The S13 struts will not

 

I think this might be my move once WA weather stops being so weird, it was hailing for about 15 minutes the other day, and I don't want to take chances yet with the ambiguous weather and having to figure out if the S13 stuff would even fit (at least until I finish the Z31 engine swap, currently taking up the carport). Once summer hits I'll try seeing if it is more of a drop and replace (probably not) and go from there. 

 

And if that's the case, I probably will be ordering some new brake rotors and pads seeing that it was sitting and might be warped on it, but we'll see how that goes too.

[ilios.gr]

On 5/12/2025 at 11:58 AM, Bleach said:

I bought one of those cheap Honda coilover kits. The diameter is too small for the threaded sleeve to slip over the 280Z strut (and the 280ZX is likely the same) They will only slip over the smaller diameter "early" 240Z struts. Just to make sure, you know the 280Z and the 280ZX are different cars and different types of front struts. Hopefully you don't get those two confused.

 

However, I did use parts of the cheap coilover kit to create a non-adjustable (no weld) front coilover for my 1978 280Z. I made a video showing how it was done on youtube. I've driven about 1000 miles on it so far.

I think I saw your video and that was what made me think of it.

I was looking for a way to lower my (very long) project 280 because it's genuinely having the dreaded positive camber to the point that it's rubbing on the springs, I had to improvise with a smaller wheel and tire profile just so that it can roll around and sorta drive freely