running issues

[Chance]

So i dial in the truck and it idles good at around 800 but now it won't start at all unless the distributor is maxed advanced. it sits at around 500 rpm and as soon as it get warm it wants to die. I go for a drive and then it will heat up and it wants to die at every stop light I have to keep pressing the gas. I have a weber 32/36 pretty fresh rebuild and im stumped.

[banzai510(hainz)]

3 hours ago, Chance said:

distributor is maxed advanced.

Was this motor redone /oil pump removed and reinstalled? different dist?  You have a timing light?

 

3 hours ago, Chance said:

warm it wants to die

What is the choke doing?Is it still ON?

 

 

this is a simple fix.

what was done exactly?  I cant mind read what you did. so more infor helps.

this still has points also? gap set.

 

another thing is if the idle adjustment is off it wont idle also. adjust the brass screw at the base 2.5 turns out from bottom and fine tune it.

Edited May 9 by banzai510(hainz)

[Chance]

the chokes good, the previous owner had it rebuilt back in 2006. it still has dual points I checked the gap on them and they're good. I adjusted the idle mixture screw about 2 1/4 and it idles at 750 but not smooth it goes 750 to 810 and back and forth. but this is with the distributor maxed out advanced. when its maxed out advanced its only at tdc so I can't advance it anymore to 8 degrees. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

to me best guess going by what you tell me  the oil pump is off a tooth or you swapped a dist in with the different dist plate.

 

I would line the crank up to TDC zero. then open the dist cap and look where the rotor points EXACTLY.

 

if this motor was never apart while you had it running good before then it CANT be the distributor off.or you do the above and see rotorr is close when its in the center of the distributor slot(Not cranked to one side) then consider that OK.

 

 

2006 is awhile ago.

a hail marry is clean the idle jet just in case your making it run thru the main jet by advancing the dist and having choke ON while cold

 

 

Edited May 9 by banzai510(hainz)

[Chance]

rotors pointing at the 1st cylinder on compression stroke, I cleaned the primary and secondary idle jets yesterday.

[datzenmike]

1/  Get or borrow a timing light. The timing may be out you never know.

2/  Disconnect the second set of points. Even if you get the wrong set you are going to set the timing on the set that is left.

3/  Set timing to 12^o Before TDC. 

4/  Now adjust your mixture and idle speed.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

maybe the 2nd points is the first?????If thats even possible.

[Chance]

I got it running at around 750 and not dying, although I have to pump the pedal a lot to get it to start. we'll see if something happens.

[datzenmike]

When cold next time take the top of air filter and look down inside. Step on gas once, what should happen is the choke plate should snap closed in preparation for starting. The choke is necessary for good fast starting. The choke also set the carburetor to a fast idle and both the choke and the fast idle turns off as the engine warms up.

 

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

maybe the 2nd points is the first?????If thats even possible.

 

The second set opens later than the first at 5^o. This is strictly an emissions measure. I say get rid of this interference. It will run stronger at 12^o.

 

To disconnect the later opening (retarded) points find the Blue/Yellow stripe wire going to the distributor and follow it back to the fender where it connects to the distributor relay and simply unplug it. The engine will run normally on the advance set of points. I would definitely check the timing just in case it has changed from wear but file or replace the points and set the points gap at 0.018" to 0.022" first.

[Chance]

the choke snaps shut but its weird it starts better when I hold the choke wide open 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

i Adjusted the auto choke once and never could get it perfect. so i went manual choke 32/36s. and pump the gas. this is a simple fix just missing something. Condensor? Vaccume adv plate loose/disconnected throwing timing off. Distributor bushing worn causing points to open/close prematurly.