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Taillight conversion from just red to red & amber


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Has anyone converted thier taillights over from plain red signals and brakes to amber signal with red brakes? How did you do it?

Simply changing the lens isn't going to be enough - the bulbs need to be wired differently but I expect the wiring harness is different somewhere.

 

I want to convert from these

NAtaillights.png.81cca638410d46a0fa644612b75d38c2.png

To these

Eurotaillights.png.99da23be7c533ce4b197a936eeea420e.png

the amber is signal only, on the NA lights the outside is both signal & brake.

 

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Look at the top lens set-up....

 

On the turn signal, how many wires go into that bulb?  How many filaments are in the bulb.  If the bulb only has 1 filament....there is some "Logic" filters involved.

 

The bulb's color doesn't matter as the lens converts it.

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Likely have to change the sockets and bulb types.  Do you have a diagram or can you draw a picture of the current set up?  I could probably help you figure out how to change it to work how you want.

 

Last year I rewired the taillights on my 510 race car to light all 4 panels under braking instead of just two of the four.  No turn signals anymore in that one though.  😉

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I've read somewhere on the forum that the light feed differs in how it goes through the signal lever, not sure if that is why it isn't just a simple thing.

 

I know I can hardwire differently at the housing, but that isn't the correct solution. On the NA setup there are only 4 wires (including backup) at the housing - Tail/Park light, Brake+Signal, reverse and Ground. The second bulb from the outside is 2 filament for the combined Brake + Tail.

 

The JDM/Euro setup those are separated, with 5 wires (inluding backup) at the housing - Tail/Park light, Brake, Signal, Reverse and Ground. Problem is that there is only 4 wires  (NA) not 5 (Euro).

 

Below is a simplified schematic. 

Taillightschematic.png.d9e657db3de2e9d303c075f3b033e89f.png

I suspect that the signal lever is different + 2 additional wires in the rear harness??

 

I suppose I can live with the amber lens over what is actually a brake light, but there may be a legality issue. Yes, I could just get a non-amber lens but if I can make this work correctly then that's preferred.

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the signal feed wire is different: for JDM they had a totally different Hazard system. So don't worry about that

 

The real difference is at the lamp: JDM used all red, but like EUR used a separate bulb for the T/S. I reckon you can modify the harness (or use wiring adapter) to add the extra bulb socket

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So the NA wiring utilizes only one wire for both turn and stop?  Single socket/dual filament bulb I can  understand, but I would think that would still require two separate signal wires.  Wattage for stop and turn signals are very different.  If they share a common socket, but with two feed wires, that is where I would suspect you could separate the two feed wires in one socket to single feed to two separate sockets.  

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Not to confuse but clarify - I am using a 720 steering column with 720 switchgear, but the wiring is still the same issue.

 

There is definitely a difference beween NA and EURO wiring within the turn signal switch AND the hazard switch. This is probably not going to be a modification that I will be doing unless I can source the EURO switchgear. Anyone know what part numbers for those?? I will very soon be finished dealing with all the electrical components & related modifications so will move on and just get the all red lenses.

 

FWIW, this is the factory wiring diagram with circuits traced.

720schematic.thumb.JPG.cb1502c756dc9b469f0ebe78dd5871db.JPG

 

There are "converters" for trailers to adapt from EURO style vehicle amber signals to trailer combined turn/brake, but that is the wrong way - you can marry 2 into 1 but not split 1 into 2 (at least not on vehicles 🤣).

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If you really wanna do it you probably have to run atleast 1 wire...

I think unplugging the brake switch at the pedal then running a new wire from the switch would be the easiest... 

Turn signals remain with the existing circuit.. the brake now won't interfere because it's not connected to the turn signal switch...

 

I actually had to do this on my wife's vw bus because it's wired similar and I added dedicated brake lights .... 

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6 hours ago, iceman510 said:

So the NA wiring utilizes only one wire for both turn and stop?

Not all all. North America has two wires, one for T/S, one for Stop. But in USA they go to a dual-filament bulb, while in JPN there are two bulbs, each single filament

 

The difference is in the short harness that goes with the taillights, if you get the taillights with the stub harness its plug-n-play

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I believe I have this figured out

5 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I think unplugging the brake switch at the pedal then running a new wire from the switch would be the easiest... 

and that makes the most sense to me. The stock brake light wiring goes from the brake light switch THEN through the hazard switch THEN through the turn signal switch before getting to the tail light assembly. 

stoplampcircuit.png.6c1df043533ca6160513965d131905a8.png

 

At the Hazard switch, when the hazards are OFF, the brake light circuit continues through. When the hazards are ON, the brake light circuit is open (prevents the light output of the brakes to negate the hazards).

 

So by bypassing the Turn signal switch, I should be able to run a new dedicated wire to the brake lights, creating my separated brake lights from the turn lights. Addition of 1 wire. Simple. I like it.

ModifiedBrakeschematic.png.726bd49dc33b300b5cbd1c240f55cd10.png

 

I do believe we have the solution! Thanks Crashtd420

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